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( THE NIVT TORI 

POBUC LIBRARY 



\ 



ASTOR, LENOX 
riuDEN FOUNDATIONS 



*' t- 



,.v-. 






M. 



Wp ROVING LIFE. 



A DIARY OP 



TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES BY SEA AND LAND, 

DURING PEACE AND WAR. 



BT JOSEPH A. STUART. 

V 



ILLUSTRATED BY PHOTOGRAPHS OF ORIGINAL SKETCHES 

AND OF PLACES VISITED. 



VOLUME IL 



IN THE U. B. MAVY THROUGH THE REBELLU» 

AND AFTER. 




I AUBURN. CAL. 



THE N£W YuiTK 

PUBLIC LIBiARY 

90196A 

AgJOF. LINt>X AN* 
TlLftEN FOflNDATfiNS 

1^ i»ift L 






_ « * • • 



-^ 



4i 

K 

X 



To my Children and Theirs This Account of 

MY ROVING LIFE 

Is Dedicated. 

JOSEPH A. STUART. 



PREFACE. 



This account of the roving portion of my life ia the result 
of a desire on the part of each of my children to possess a 
copy of my diaries kept dunng my wanderings. When I 
concluded at the age of sixty-six years to put my diary into 
type I thought 1 would preface it with a few pages of my 
ancestral record. That record, after three years of search, 
filled nearly two-hundred pages, which I put into a separate 
work on '* The Duncan Stuart Family; Our Branch and Its 
Connections^'* In that I gave a short account of other por- 
tions of my life, reserving to these volume 3 an account of 
my roamings. The typography and press- work have been 
my own work (except the press-work of the half-tones, as 
my little 4x6 press had not the requisite strength for a half- 
tone impression.) Now that the work is finished;! am past 
seventy years old, and I trust that the typography will meet 
Jenient criticism from the reader on that score. Trusting 
that my mistakes in life may be avoided by my descendants 
1 present this record to them with my love. 

Joseph A. Stuart. 
Auburn, California, February 14, 1896. 



VOLUiME II. 



MY MOVING LIFE. 



BY JOSEPH A. STUART. 



CHAFfER I. 



Draeuty Mass,^ Thtirsday^ Aug, 25 ^ 1864, I can stand 
it no longer. Abraham Lincoln has called for 500,000 more 
men, and the bounties are now extended to seamen also. 
Anne has repeatedly said she would be willing to have me 
go into the navy whenever bounties were offered to seamen. 
That has at last been done and I now feel that I can do my 
duty to my Country without entailing absolute suffering on 
those dependent upon me. At a special town-meeting held 
last week to devise means for filling her quota of 41 men 
without drafting I offered to start the list of volunteers on 
an assurance of a full bounty of $1000 and State Aid to my 
family of $12 a month, and was accepted. 

U. S. S. Ohio, Charlestcvm, Mass., Avg. 27, 1864. I 
am to-day on board my old ship, the Ohio, as an Ordinary 
Seaman for three years. My outfit for uniform, mattress and 
blankets, amounting to $83 is charged against my wages of 
$16 per mouth, out of which 20 cents per month is also to 
come for a hospital and pension fund. The bounties were 
understood to be $300 from the United States, $325 from 
the State, ar.d the Town was to make up the rest. The $375 



2 MT ROVING LIFE. 

^hich the Town was to farnish was deposited with tbe ship^s 
Paymaster to my credit during my examination for enlist* 
ment, bat after signing papers to serve 4n the regular navy 
I find that the State of Massachusetts discriminates against 
her seafaring sons in the way of bounty^ allowing reports to 
be circulated in the newspapers without contradiction that 
the same bounty of $325 offered to soldiers on her quota 
would be paid to those entering the regular navy on her 
quota. Three-years-men could obtain vouchers for only 
f 100 instead of $325 notwithstanding the State receives the 
same credit for a seaman as for a soldier. . Another unjust 
and impolitic discrimination is practised by the United States 
in the fact that a green hand entering the army is paid $16 
and dotheSj while a sailor having bad at least three years of 
sea training to obtain a rating of ordinary seaman has to 
give nearly a year's war service in order to work out of debt 
to the Government for outfit and the year's clothing. This 
discrimination is accentuated by comparing the case of the 
green hand entering the navy at the nominal rate of $14, 
(less 20 cents hospital fee.) The United States cannot 
expect the service to be popular with native born seamen 
under such treatment. We are all greatly incensed, and if 
again free neither State nor Nation would get our services. 

Tuesday, Sept. 6, 186 i. I am drafted for the West Gulf 
Squadron under Farragut. We expect to go on board the 
Coniiectic^U tomorrow for passage. We have nearly 3000 
^^ recruits" on board besides the regular ship's company. — 
Thieving and robbery are rife on board and we are glad we 
are so soon to get into a sea-going vessel. I had sent $-365 
of my town and $100 first installment of Government bounty 
home by Dracut's agent, reserving only $5 for my own use 
after paying out the rest for some incidental expenses. I 
succeeded in keeping that till last night. It was missing 



SENT TO TBB WS8T GVLF SQUADRON. 3 

this inoriHDg with my postage stamps and gold pen. The 
ship's galley had become unequal to the demands upon-it 
and is being replaced by another of special size. In the 
meantime we are forced to sobsist on hardbread and water 
or patronize the cake stands. Tired of this prison fare I 
bought a pot of hot coffee yesterday and was spotted as to 
where I kept my money. They cleaned me out. 

Wednesday, Sept. 7, 1864. The Connecticut took 100 
men from us to fill her complement yesterday and we thought 
we were rid of that number, but the MassasoU hauled into 
the dry dock and sent her whole crew of 220 men aboard us. 
We had already received 100 men by a tug from Portland 
and Portsmouth early in the moraing and were feeling quite 
crowded. Our draft was to have gone\on boai*d the Con" 
necticut to-day, but on getting up steam a leak was found in 
her boilers requiring patching and we are detained on board. 

Thursdayj Sept. 8. Our drafts of recruits for the Atlan- 
tic and two Gulf Squadrons were sent on board the Connec' 
ticut early in the forenoon and we sailed at 3 P. M. Last 
evening during muster I met with quite an accident. After 
answering to my name and walking forward, but before we 
were piped down, a drunken fellow at target firing managed 
to put an air-gun point into my right ear, felling me to the 
deck. I was helped below to the sick-bay, where the man 
in charge stopped the bleeding, gave me a dose of salts and 
told me to report again at 9 A. M. At that time our drafts 
were being mustered on the quarter deck with our bags and 
hammocks for transfer to the Connecticut and I was too anx- 
ious to get out of a ship where I could be robbed and shot 
with impunity to care to remain and preferred to wait until 
I got on board a sea-going vessel before going to a doctor. 

Sunday, Sept. 11 . It is so warm that I find three flannels 
uncomfortable during the day. A large steamer hove in 



4 MT ROTfKG LIV'E. 

»ight heading across oar bows and created quite an excite- 
uieni till near enough to show her colors, when she proved to 
be a Yankee cniisei . We exchanged numbers with her and 
dipped ensigns m salute, she tben wore round and returned 
to her cmising ground. At 5 P. M. we met a gunboat on 
her way north. A shark has been following us, keeping 
close under our counter. The sea is rough and the wind is 
stall ahead. 

Jfoitda^, 5epf. Id, 1SB4. At midnight last night we 
were treated to a sudden, heavy shower. The ship's company 
sleep below, but the recruits spread their bedding upon the 
quarter deck and hurricane deck under awnings, occupying 
the whole space except narrow strips from the officers* hatch 
to the hurricane deck and to the pilot-house. I lashed up 
my hammock and lay down upon it on a prostrate ladder till 
the <kek8 were dried off, then opened out and Blept till the 
call of ^^All Hands !" ^' Up all hammocks !" warned us to 
stow our hammocks in a hnge pile ^chock aft' under guaixl. 
Hammocks of the crew were stowed in the hammock-nettings 
upon each side of the ship, but everything connected with the 
recruits was kept separate as much as possible. This fore- 
noon a school of porpoise and one of flying-flsh played about 
our bows. The wind, which has been ahead until now, is 
nearly abeam and we have all sail set. The crew were ex- 
ercised at quarters handling the ^big guns', and they are big 
compared with those we had twent}' years ago. I thought 
I knew the drill but found the commands radically different 
and greatly simplified, though I could have taken any place 
at a broadside smoothbore if an occasion required it. The 
exercise did not seem much like play, the beads of sweat on 
the brows of the gun's crew showing there was work in it. 

Tuesday^ Sept. 13. Hilton Head light hove in sight at 4 
A. M, and at daylight we steamed in and came to an anchor 



AT POST HOTAI., 8. C. 5 

just inside the New Hampshire^ of seventyfour guns, at Port 
Kojal, 8. C. anchorage at 8:30 A. M. We sent 175 men 
on loard that ship at once for the South Atlantic Squadron. 

Wednesdai/^ Sept 14^ 1864. The Pawnee came in from 
Charlestown ^'esterday and i» coaling up to go to sea again. 
A collier c»me alongside us last night and we %vere set at 
work by squadrons carrying coal in baskets, our squadron 
having the mid watch. 

Thursday^ Sept. 15, We run up our anchor by the deck 
tackles with the full force of 600 men and left Port Ro^^al at 
10 A. M. A monitor in tow of a black gunboat came in as 
we were going out. We had the usual allowance of canned 
fresh beef boiled »i dinner with maggots and weevils in the 
bard bread ; fresh mes.t again at supper, preserved alive in 
the bread. We cooked to suit ourselves in or over our pots 
of hot tea. In the latter case there was considerable loss of 
weight, the fresh meat deserting rather tlian be treated to a 
vapor bath. On^ would suppose that sailors risking life and 
limb in the service of their country might be satisfied without 
meat three times a day, but our good uncle does things up 
brown and through his contractors furnishes meat as a part 
of the bread ration. (Probably from some returned long* 
voyage vessel and worked in by some contractor.) 

Friday y Sept. 16. The sea is almost as smooth as glass. 
In the afternoon the crew exercised at the guns again. One 
half their nnmber are green huuds just from the Ohioy but 
are getting initiated in the mysteries and miseries of exercicie 
with these masses of iron weighing 4 }-2 tons without the 
carriage, going through the various evolutions of running in^ 
loading, running out, and firing some 75 to 80 times daring 
the hour osuaJly allotted to a drill at quarters. This is done 
'^upon the jump/* and as they leave their quarters at **beat 
the retreat'* there is some wiping of brows &ud a few growls 



MT;mVXKO LIFK. 

from "the old band;) at the long conttiiuance of the fun. It 
was necessary however that the new hands should become as 
perfect as they/and we recruits enjoyed watching them. — 
We were especiaHy amused when one fellow in his eagerness 
to man the train tackle stumbled over the handspike and the 
Officer of the Division orderd ^^ Man wounded in the leg ! " 
^^Apply your tourniquet and take him below to have that 
iubberly leg amputated ;" ''Stop veat and sponge !" ''Take, 
him down head tirst-do you want that leg to bleed to death ?" 
'^Load !" The exercise went on without interruption and the 
three men soon returned with the lubberly leg cured and took 
their places again. 

Saturday^ Sept. 1 7, 1834. At 6 A. M. two sail east of us 
are steering north under a press of steam, the foremost one 
emitting dense clouds of black smoke, while the other's light 
blue stream was p3rceptib'y g:iining, pro.uising prize money 
for her crew. Blockade runuing is getting to be too risky 
for profit to the runner, the "running** is too often from our 
cruisera. Land, or trees rather, about fi.ve miles west of us 
shows that the carrierof the blood-red flag needed only a few 
hours more of darkness to have made his venture a success. 
On examining my clothing yesterday I found vermin. To 
get rid of tkem I washed out my flannels and gave them all 
a thorough roasting against the smokestack before daylight. 
When we get into our own ships we will all get a thorough 
purification and the persistent breeders will get detected by 
their messmates, reported to the oflSeers, shaved, scrubbed 
severely with soap and sand, and then made to do the dirty 
work of the shipper a month, keeping at the same time in 
condition fit for i/ispection at 9 A. M. quarters. This takes 
out of them all laziness ; for they have tp exert themselves 
from the time hammocks are piped up to do this extra work 
and get their own ^ 'bright- woi^" ready for inspection. The 



KEY WEST. TAMPA BAY. / 

forenoon was quite hot, ' with a leading whid, bat before 
noon it had become squally with rain, giving some disccMii- 
fort to us in oiir crowded and exposed condition. A snail 
schooner is n^aking in toward the land which is five miles 
distant an<l ^(ppears to be in a hurry to get there by the way 
she carries sail daring the squalls. We are up with Cape 
Florida. At night the officer of the deck brought me a tar- 
paulin to cover my hammock. 

Sunday, Sept. 18, 1864. We made Key West light at 
4 A. M., Sandy Key light soon after, and anchored off Key 
West at 6 A; M. While entering we enjoyed looking down 
through the cleai* water and watching the motions of the fish 
at the bottom. The channels between the ridges of coral 
are distinctly traceable by the contrast in color of the water 
under the sun's rays, but only a person familiar with the 
locality could tell which channel led to the goal. The pilot 
tells us that the Magnolia brought in the Matagorda last 
night as a prize with 850 bales of cotton on board. None 
of the East Gulf 8quadrou being here we got under weigh 
at 1 1 A. M. We saw a propeller outside steaming to the 
westward and could have overhauled hor, but our orders are 
to not deviate from our course while the drafts are on boai*d. 
I think we went in her direction as long as we dared, for the 
Tortugas wei*e in sight when our course was changed to the 
north. 

Tuesday Sept. 20. We anchored at Tampa Bay at 9 A. 
M. The steamei*s inside all came down to the mouth of the 
bay where we anchored and received their quotas. One of 
the four was an old ferry boat. At 5 P. M. we up anchor 
with a rush as our next port was to be Mobile Bay. 

WedneMay, Sept. 21. It is cooler this morning. At 11 
o'clock the shipping in Mobile Bay was in sight and we fired 
a gun and hoisted our number to announce our name and soon 



8 MY KOYIKG LIFE. 

after we fired another gun and hoisted the signal for a pilot. 
Off Ft. Gaines the smokestack of the monitor Tiecum^eAt, sunk 
by a torpedo while passing the forts was to be seen. Fort 
Morgan was almost a mass of rains. From the sea it does 
not show how severely it had been handled. The shattered 
and perforated walls of the lighthouse drew our attention as 
we approached, thQ wall in one place being gone for nearly 
half its circuit. The whole point about the lighthouse was 
scattered with charred timbers and other wreckage. Our 
land forces were encamped on the Point. Their white t-ents 
and baggage train were a pleas:tnt sight to us. A salute 
was being fired by Ft. Gaines, probably in honor of our 
victories at Atlanta. We stood in close under the stern of 
the Hartford^ flagship of Admiral Far ragut, an.l cheered her 
as we passed, then anchored a short distance from her at a 
little after 1 P. M. A draft of 30 men was distributed to 
ships lying here. A view of Fort Morgan from our anchor- 
age shows a slope of earth furrowed and upheaved out of all 
semblance to regularity, while an occasional small patch of 
the original grassy surface accentuates the ruin. The build- 
ings were almost entirely demolished. 

Thursday^ Sept. 22^ 1864. We got under weigh at 6 A. 
M. for Pensacola. It commenced to rain just after we got 
our hammocks last night and we stood holding them in our 
bauds an hour hoping the rain would cease and give us a dry 
deck to spread them on. We were then ordered to spread 
them upon the berth deck. The air below w^as hot and foul 
and I was glad to find a dry spot under the hurricane deck 
where I could bunk down and breathe pure air. We came 
to anchor at the Pensacola Navy Yard at noon. Ft. McRae 
and the navy yard are greatly injured, the splendid dry dock 
filled with rubbish, its gates demolished and its steam pumps 
removed or destroyed. In contrast stands Ft. Pickens, grim 



PENSACOLA. DRAFTED TO THE PORT BOYAL. 9 

and defiant, ready for iDstant action. At 3 P. M. we were 
transferred to the frigate Potomac, receiving-ship of this 
station. Here we still have to spread oar mattresses on the 
upper or spar deck with only a * 'housed" awning (the outer 
edges lowered to resemble the roof of a house) for a shelter 
fi*om the rain. 

Saturday J Sept. 24, 1864. My little Freddie is four years 
old to-day and I long to see him. The dazzling- white beach 
and strange trees have a pleasant but tantalizing appearance 
to us who cannot get ashore. Regular navy discipline is 
enforced here, for which we are thankful. Still 1 am anx* 
ious to get into my own ship where I can have the privileges 
and cleanliness there found. Here we are only "recruits" 
to be watched and disposed of in the easiest possible way. 

Sunday, Oct. 2. Twenty years ago to-day I came into 
Norfolk, Va. in the old Cyane from a cruise in the Pacific, 
little thinking 1 should ever re-enter the service, especially 
in support of the Government against some of my former 
ottcetB. I am drafted for the **double-ender" Port Royal, 
Lt. Commandert^herardi, commanding. The double-enders 
have both ends bow-like — each end supplied with a rudder 
to enable them to navigate harrow rivers without turning. — 
The Port Royal is stationed at Mobile Bay and we are to be 
sent to her on a tug tomorrow. My ear has been troubling 
me so much at times ever since 1 got hurt that I have had to 
go to the doctors for relief from the pain. At each time a 
blister behind the ear has rendered it hard to tell whether 
the pain came from inside or out«»ide the skull, for the blis- 
ters have had no "orders" to come off. 

Monday, Oct. 3. We were sent on boaixl the tug at 7 P. 
M. and started lit 11 P. M. We were wedged like beasts 
on top of a deck load and got neither hammocks nor sleep. 

Tuesday, Oct. 4. We arrived at Mobile Bay at 7 A. M. 



10 MY ROVING LIFE. 

I found my clothes- bag ripped open and my best suit stolen. 
My ^^ditty box," containing my sewing implements and tbe 
pictures of my family, had been broken into and tbe things 
not taken were strewed about the deck. Onr things were in 
a pile where only the tug's crew could get at them, yet no 
investigation was attempted. Others were in the same pre- 
dicament. I am glad to get on my own ship at last, where 
such things will cease. 

Wednesday^ Oct. 5, 1864. I find the Port Royal a small 
vessel of only 705 tons and very light draft ; yet she has a 
heavy battery of eight guns — two IX-inch smooth-bore (100 
pounders,) in broadside; one X-inch smooth-bore, (150- 
pounder,) on a pivot carriage aft; one Vl-inch rifle, (100- 
pounder,) on a pivot carriage forward; two V-inch rifles, 
(60-pounders,) in broadside forward; and two 24-pounder 
brass howitzers. Last night was rainy and the l)erth deck 
hot and stifling. I consequently rose with a severe head- 
ache, but had to help at holystoning the decks for two hours 
before breakfast. We are to coal ship tomorrow and this 
would seem to be the refinement of unnecessary labor, but 
it is only by such means that we can keep the ship free of 
pests of all kinds. 

Thursday, Oct. 6. ''Scrub and wash clothes!" was the 
order passed after hammocks were stowed this morning. In 
washing clothes two or more messmates will chum in the use 
of a bucket and after the decks are wet down each one will 
spread his piece upon the deck, rub it thoroughly with a 
generous coating of soap and then scrub it with a brush on 
inside and outside. Rinsing is done cither in the bucket or 
under the deck force pump. During the whole process the 
deck is awash vith soapsuds and the men barefooted and 
with trowsers rolled high up kneel at their scrubbing. The 
beneficial effect of this mode is two-fold. Not only do the 



ON THE rOLTEOYAL; COALIKG. A KCl THEK. 11 

clothes get a eorpirg and ecrubbing that dislodges ud welcome 
intruders, but the deck and bulwarks receive a good clean 
washing afterward. After breakfast we commenced to coal 
ship and linished at 6 : 30, then scrubbed the decks with sand 
before lowering our clothes-lines. 1 stood my first anchor- 
watch from 10 to 12 P. M. 

Friday <i Qct. 7, 1864, We spent the forenoon ''cleaning 
ship.*' The Selma came in from New Orleans. She was 
taken at the battle of Mobile Bay. There is constant sig- 
naling between the Admiral and Army and we seem to have 
a share in it. 

Saturday^ Oct, 8, A stiff "norther" commenced at mid- 
night and at 3 A M. we had to let go another anchor and 
pay out to 45 fathoms of chain. The barque Alamo, of 
New York, went ashore and being light was left high up on 
the southeastern beach inside the bay. The tug Buckthorn 
buried her bows at every eea as she cr.me in this morning 
from Pensacola. She brought us some provisions. I drew 
another pair of pants at a cost of $9.11 on a special requi- 
sition to replace tkoge stolen. The monitor Mavhattan is 
swept by every sea, but emerges ''smiling in the Storm King's 
face." Her crew have taken refuge in a scow towed astern 
but are getting considerably shaken up by its tossing. The 
gale will probably clear the land of any yellow fever. 

Sm day, Oct. 9. The gale Irs rlated lut it is still cold. 
We performed the usual Sunday's holystoning of the deck. 
A gritty stone five inches thick, and having a flat under sur- 
face of about 10x15 inches, bound with a rope and ropes at 
the ran cw sides to drag it b} , is hauled back and forth with a 
Fee- paw nrotion over the wet and sanded deck till the whole 
surface has been scoured. The custom of always using it 
on Sunday has given it the name of holy-stone. All places 
that cannot be reached with it are scoured with similar stones 



12 MT R0YIN6 LIFE. 

aboat the size of the Book of Common Prayer, and from 
being used in a kneeling position they have been dabbed 
"prayer-books" by sailors. 

Monday^ Od. 10^ 1864. All hands scrubbed hammocks 
and the recruits scrubbed their blankets. The Sebago came 
down from Dog River Bar, nine miles from Mobile, with an 
officer and two men killed and three men wounded in a fight 
with a battery, she getting aground while on picket in the 
channel abreast of the battery during the night. The Mon- 
ongahekij Capt. Wm. E. Leroy, one of my officers on the 
Erie and the Cyane of long ago went to sea at 11 A. M. — 
We are taking stores from the Blackthorn. The store steamer 
Bermuda^ formerly a blockade runner, came into port this 
morning and the messes were allowed to send aboard to buy 
fresh stores. 

Tuesday^ Oct. 11. The Metacomet came down the bay 
from the front this forenoon. I heard at noon that the 2nd 
Maine Cavalry was at Fort Morgan and wrote to brother 
Louis who is Surgeon in It. The letter went on board the 
flagship to be forwarded. 

Wednesd ly, Oct. 12. The Piaola came down the bay last 
night. We exercised at the big guns in the morning and our 
Division with Sharp's rifles in bayonet drill in the afternoon. 

Thursday^ O^t. 13. We got under weigh at 8 A. M. for 
the front, reached the fleet at noon but did not come to an- 
chor till 2 : 30. We fitted boarding nettings and were called 
to fire quarters in the afternoon. At 5 : 30 we up anchor to 
go on picket, anchoring in the western channel below some 
obstructions placed by the rebels across the main channel. 
Others of the fleet took stations to prevent any vessel either 
leaving or entering Mobile. The Octorora started down the 
bay soon after we arrived, we being her relief. At midnight 
the alarm rattle on the berth deck was sprung for quarters 



PICKET DUTT. NEW REBEL FORT, -^^SPANISH FT.'* IS 

and we exercised at the big gaud a short time, with other 
maneavers interjected, as might occur during a sudden night 
attack upon us. 

Friday^ Oct. 14^ 1864. When hammocks were called this 
morning we found the ship at her old anchorage. The Se' 
bago was aground again under the eastern Hhoi*e. The Met- 
awmet and the Mississippi double-tun'et monitor Winnebago 
were at their old moorings but went with us to support the 
Sebago and tow her off if necessary. She got off by her own 
exertions and unmolested. The rebels are burning off a 
piece of woods in the range of a new battery (Spanish Fort) 
upon a hill on the eastern shore at the head of the Appalache 
channel. One of the rebel floating batteries close to Mobile 
is trying its range with shot and erhell, but they do not reach 
half-way to us. 

Sunday^ Oct. 16. A flag of truce that had been flying a 
short time was hauled down with the firing of a gun from the 
rebel gunboat Morgan. It is misty and cool. Picket duty 
at night as usual. 

Monday^ Oct. 17. Another flag of truce from the rebels, 
and after it closed several shots from the Morgan^ s guns that 
did not come anywhere near us. It is cloudy and cold. 

Tuesday^ Oct. 18. Last night the petty oflScers came to 
me to be * 'steady cook" to their mess, I to be allowed 37.5 
cents of ration money per day for the extra labor. This is 
duty excusing me from deck duty by day except for drills and 
when all hands ai*e called for any special duty. I had taken 
my week's turn at cooking for my own mess and they had 
seen my work. I accepted. Last night a small boat with 
a single person in it was seen rowing for the ship, but on 
getting into the current it was swept down the bay. I was 
one of eight sent in a boat to pick him up. In the haste to 
get us off no signals had been agreed upon to guide us and 



14 MT B0VIN6 LIFE. 

we failed to locate him and on our return to the ship learned 
we had not gone within half-a-mile of him. We found hard 
rowing in the teeth of the gale on our return. 

Wednesdapj Oct. 19^ 1864. There was an alarm at mid- 
night that a rebel gunboat was coming down. We got to 
quarters so speedily, our battery *'cast loose and provided" 
that the captain praised us. One unlucky fellow of our gun's 
crew, a ward room waiter, let his pistol go off. The captain 
was forward inspecting the readiness of each individual and 
came rushing aft to know if anyone was hurt. Finding no 
one hurt and only the unlucky waiter scared he burst out :~ 
*' Oh, you blunderbuss ! " '* Oh, you lubber ! " *' Who 
ordered you to fire?" His pistol was taken from him and 
his station changed. This morning the captain explained 
to us the principle of a shell and the manner of handling one. 
Our ship has not been repaired during its thirty months of 
continuous active service. Our boilers leak so under steam 
pressure that the pumps are started every half-hour when we 
are under weigh. It is thought she will go to New Orleans 
for general repairs very soon. 

Friday^ Oct. 21. Three refugees came off in a boat of 
their own manufacture. They pushed boldly out into the 
stream and the night being dark used the rebel campfires lo 
guide them and trusted to luck to reach some of our vessels. 
Their boat was nearly full of water when they reached ns. 
They cauie near detection by a cavalry patrol stationed along 
the beach to prevent refugees putting off to us. They give 
doleful accounts of rebel life. 

Monday^ Oct. 24^ 1864. The Selma went down the bay 
a short distance for target practice with some new sights to 
her guns. Upon hearing the firing the Mississippi monitor 
Chickasaw and the little dispatch boat Cowslip were sent up 
to US, the former to our assistance if needed, the latter to 



MISSISSIPPI RIYER MONITORS. 15 

return with a report of the cause of the firing. These Mis- 
sissippi monitors differ somewhat from those of the Atlantic 
seaboard in that their dceks are more convex to secure head- 
room below with a light draft to the vessel. They are so 
short and broad and the decks so convex that they are called 
*' Mud-Turtles" by the sailors. They are being fitted with 
great, many pronged forks called ^^ torpedo rakes" that may 
be lowered in front of them to catch any torpedos the rebels 
are said to be sending down the current of Appalache Chan- 
nel, which has not been obstracted by piles as has been the 
western or main channel. I give here a home-made cut of 

A MISSISSIPPI-RIVER MONITOR, 



Ai 




or ''Mud Turtle," 
with her rake raised as when not needed. These monitors 
are our main dependence in serious work as they are imper- 
vious to anything the rebels have. 

Wednesday^ Nov, 2. Last Sunday I had a very severe 
pain in my head. It was rainy, the men took refuge on the 
berth deck and there was such a continual noise that it made 
me almost crazy. The doctor ordered me into my hammock 
and gave me a sleeping potion. I was unfit for duty all of 
the next day. Last night five men of the crew of a one-gun 
battery stole a boat and came off to us after we had returned 
to our station in the morning. They were within 200 yards 
of us at one time during the night but feared to approach or 
hail. In the morning they had drifted five miles away. We 



16 BIT ROVING LIFE. 

saw them a mere speck as we were coming to anchor and an 
armed boat was sent to investigate. They were the second 
set of ^ve to come off from that gun's crew in the same boat. 
It had been set adrift after the first five came off. It had 
been picked up by its former owners and has again been used 
to reach our lines. We set it adrift now hoping the remaining 
five of tho gun's crew may bang their o3ftc3r the next tim3. 
The others were to have come off at this time but their offi- 
cer remained awake sitting at the fire too near to where they 
lay asleep and these did not dare try to rouse them. The 
shore is lined with small batteries but they are very scantily 
manned, they tell us. Tiiey repeated the story of a torpedo 
boat nearly ready to come out to attack us. Forewarned we 
are forearmed, and as the moon will soon give us light they 
will find it hard to catch us napping and will not be likely j,o 
try except during dark, rainy nights. At such times we take 
extra precautions. The watch on deck is held with sidearms 
at the big guns, and armed boats with their crews sitting in 
their places are held alongside the ship ready to shove off in 
chase at the first warning of a cigar-shaped thing. When we 
reached our atichorage in the morning we found the Meta- 
comet had sent a boat a long way down the bay inshore for 
another refugee boat. They were getting dangerously near 
a rebel battery and our ship was ordered to up anchor and go 
to their rescue. The refugees were contrabands, three men, 
a woman, and a child. We towed them to the anchorage 
and they went on board the Metacomet in her boat, that ship 
flying the senior officer's flag under Lt. Commander Jouett. 
When the tide turned we set that boat adrift to benefit the 
next party wishing to pay us a visit. This is the third day 
of rain and of armed lookouts on gratings slung over the 
sides of the ship just above the water's edge to give notice 
of the approach of the long expected torpedo boat. It was 



DECLINE STEERAGE steward's BERTH. 17 

my turn from 12 to 2, but I had not been on lookout over 
fifteen minutes when the officer of the watch brought a man 
to take my place as punishment for missing his muster when 
the watch was called. Last Monday one of the steerage 
officers came to me offering me the rating of steerage stew- 
ard, they not being satisfied as to the honesty of the present 
one. That would make me a petty officer and what is called 
an *4dler" from having no deck duty or watch at night. It 
would give me $20 a month of wages and $7.50 of ration. 
My present receipts are $27.25 a month and in cooking for 
the men I do not feel as a servant. I told him I disliked 
to take the man's position from him if he could be induced 
to do better. When the man learned of their intention be 
was penitent and they retained him. 

'Thursday, Nov, 5, 1864. A short time before 4 A. M. 
an alarm was given that the torpedo boat was coming down 
upon us. We slipped our cable and the watch cast lc»ose our 
batteiy while the watch below were rallying to quarters. — 
We saw no more of it, whatever it was, altnough we were at 
our station for some time after daylight getting our anchor. 

Friday, Nov. 4. This morning six stout contrabands, all 
brickmakers, came aboard from a sailboat which they stole 
two miles from shore and carried to the water. They had a 
musket and quite a quantity of tobacco with them. We are 
fitting the sailboat over for a dingey or chore-boat. In the 
afternoon the Ovcasco came up to relieve us and after supper 
we went down the bay to the fleet. 

Saturday^ Nov. 5. We hauled alongside a (foal ship and 
took in coal. We did not finish and will have the cleaning 
ship to do over again after filling up on Monday. 

Saturday, Nov. 12. Last night we came up to the front 
again. We had been lying at Ft. Morgan for a whole week 
and our mess has had oyster stew for supper every day, the 



18 MY ROVING LIFE. 

boys calling it nice, but without milk I could not make it 
nice to my taste. There was none left for the cook's tid- 
bit at any time, which may have had some influence upon his 
opinion. Mobile looks very much as it did when we went 
down the bay and probably will for some time to come. It 
seems to us as if the policy of our Government were to keep 
as large a force, of r^^ls.here ai^ possible by a show of our 
navy without any gre^at accompanying land force a^d^.thus 
prevent itfieir reinfprcing Hood, liyhile ^towing, away the 
capstan bi^rs last night J trod upon a nail th^t has ^Qi^ade me 
so lame that I was^ sent belo^ in the morniq^ (V^^^^*) The 
little Cowslip c^me up in the forei^oon and the Metocomet 
soon after fired ,a truce gun, and sent a boat to meet one from 
the Morgan, 

Wednesday^ Nov. 16^ 1861. I am off the sick list to-day. 
your =^©» days of enforced quiet and poultices have made me anx^ 
ious to get about agaia. Four contrabands came off in a 
small, boajt, having ^^n^ a^ay fvpm a plantatipn thirty niiles 
above Mobile on the Tombigbee River. They.fpjljowe^ ihe 
banks of the Tombigbee and Mobile Rivers till nearing the 
city, then kept around it to Dog River and finding this boat 
three miles above its mouth packed it around the rebel pick- 
ets to a point on the bay where they found no pickets and 
launched their boat for us and freedom. They reported th^ 
roads out from Mobile lined with people last Monday leav- 
ing the city under the impression we were about to make a 
descent upon it. Four whit^^ men pame oflf this morning to 
the Metar^Tmet and report tl^t Lincoln is-Te^el^cted. This is 
conceded by them to be a heavy blow .to Conf eder^(.e ,hopes, 
they having an idea that if MacClellan had been electeid they 
cg»uld have secured peace upon their own terms. A new list 
of p^'iqe^^.for clothing^has been posted, making cloth pants (of 
satinet) $12.88 and other things inprpportiou, at whiob I'ates 



A VOLUKTKER OFFICEk's DILFMMA* 19 

a rcan's pay will hardly clothe him. In place of calllDg the 
watch at midnight the rattle was again sprung for quarters. 
This is done to recnstom us to taking our stations promptly 
anct with coolness, for we never know whether the rattle is 
for earnest business or only drill. The captain does not trust 
the inspection of the men at the guns to the officer but goes 
to each man and examines him critically, occasionally asking 
a man a question as to his particular duty in certain contin- 
gencies and explaining the man's duty if not understood. ^ — 
To-night he had gone forward inspecting the men and on his 
return was inspecting the officers. We noticed that Ensign 
H. of our gun was quite fidgety and saw he was without his 
pistol. It was amusing to witness his uneasy movements in 
his efforts to hide the emptiness of his holster. We pitied 
the man knowing he would get a dressing down before us. 
I could not resist the impulse to slyly offer him the pistol from 
my belt which he accepted and placing it in his belt returned 
to his position before the captain arrived. Being a nervous 
man he could not carry out the deception with coolness and 
received a thorough inspection from Captain Gherardi, who 
felt sure sometning was wrong with him. Turning tons he 
gave each a searching glance but no one showing concern he 
passed on. This forenoon Mr. Snair, officer of the pivot 
gun near us called me to him and told me never to do that 
again, but let every one, officer as well as man, suffer for 
his own carelessness. Had it been detected I would have 
been severely punished, he said. Mr. H. is a volunteer offi- 
cer, and is one of the kind that cannot get the ''drill" into 
his head, so that Mr. Snair has to drill our division with his 
at small arms pructice, the bayonet and cutlass drills. The 
Cowslip came up from The Fort this noon with dispatches. 
Sunday^ Nov. 20^ 1864. For the past three days there 
have been frequent flags of truce. A well-dressed man at 



20 MY ROVING LIFE. 

first came o.T to the Ojtoroia to get a pass to see Admiral 
Farragat. A boat was sent down with him and before night 
he was up again and has been going and coming ever since. 
Ostensibly his errand has been to get permission to run a 
cargo of cotton to New York — a qneer request as we are not 
yet in possession of Mobile. Some think that he and ^^Th6 
Brave Old Salt" have something else to talk about besides 
cotton, or the dispatch boat would not be placed at his ser- 
vice so readily. Last night was quite foggy with some rain. 
Two deserters from the rebel gunboat Morgan came off to 
us, just missing capture by hearing the voices of their picket 
boat's crew. This morning another boat was seen far down 
the bay with a single man in it and the little Cowslip went 
for him. He had given up trying to stem the current and 
had taken in his oars to float down to the fleet. Another lot 
of refugees brought off a Mobile paper with a statement in 
it that Lincoln's re-election was certain. 

Wednesday^ Nov. 23j 1864. We have been having a 
^ ^norther," with freezing weather. Water sti iking the decks 
in washing them yesterday and Monday mornings froze at 
once and we had a jolly time sliding. To make things more 
uncomfortable to us than usual lo<^outs had to be doubled 
at night. The watch on deck were allowed to seek shelter 
behind their guns but the crews of the picket boatn which 
were kept rowing around the ship at night suffered greatly, 
being exposed to the force of the gale and drenched to the 
skin by the waves that half filled the boats at every circuit. 
I was fortunate in having a grating lookout but suffered ex- 
ceedingly from wet an 1 cold though partially protected from 
the wind and rain by the overhanging swell of the ship's 
quarter ; in fact there was little choice of position anywhere. 
And this is the Sunny South ! The wind came up from the 
south this morning and brought warm weather. Last night 



KEIK FORCED. A FEIKT TO HELP STIEFMAN. 21 

we were reinforced by a gunboat, a mail boat, and a tug, so 
that we have three gunboats, two mail boats, two tugs, and 
a monitor. Refugees state that 1000 men could take the 
place an J day, itbowing that our efforts to keep reinforcements 
from Hood had failed. Eastern papers state that the new 
battery on the eastern shore had driven our gunboats from 
that side. This is untrue. The eastern shore is picketed 
every night by a gunboat just as the western shore is so as 
to prevent egress or ingress at either channel by blockade- 
runners, the several picket vessels returning to the general 
anchorage at daylight where they would be in a position to 
act promptly in either direction. That battery commands 
only the upper half of Appalache Channel and a little, very 
shoal one close to that shore hardly fit to be called a channel 
and cannot throw a shot more than half way to the bar at the 
mouth of the channel, below which is our anchorage. This 
bar and that at Dog River are what prevent our going up 
to the city with anything but the lightest draft. When the 
city is taken it will have to be done by the army, and they 
know it. Our going to New Orleans is set at rest for the 
present by finding the source of the leak in the boilers, and 
moreover the Cowsh'p is alongside discharging coal into us 
as if we could not be spared just now to go down the bay 
for our coal. 

Saturday^ Nov. 26^ 1864. Yesterday eight or ten sail 
were in sight from our masthead down the bay close in to 
the western shore. The Selma and Cotcdip came up last 
night and this afternoon the Admiral's dispatch boat Olas- 
gow and a monitor arrived, so that we have the Octarora^ 
Sebago^ Kennebec^ Port RoyaU Selma^ two monitors, two 
armed dispatch boats and an armed tug. The rumor is that 
Sherman is marching upon Mobile, that Canby has landed 
on the western shore, that they have pontoons for crossing 



22 MY ROVING LIFE. 

Dog River, and that an attack on Mobile may be ordered at 
any moment. (All a feint to call the rebels back from op« 
posing Sherman on his march to the sea which he commenced 
from Atlanta ten or fifteen days ago according to refugees.) 

Monday^ Noo. 28^ 1864. The little Cowslip was attacked 
by a new rebel battery on the western shore but fairly drove 
them out with her SO-pdr, Parrott rifle and two 24-pdr. brass 
howitzers. She would not stand any such foolishness. 

Wed)i^sday^ Njv. 30^ 1851. An army transport cam3 up 
yesterday and anchored a long distance from the fleet, giving 
color to tlie rumor that Sherman was within twenty-five miles 
of Mobile, but late last night we got under weigh heading 
down the bay which we would not have done were Sherman 
coming here. On anchoring we put out the fires, another 
()ign that we would not he needed at the front very soon. — 
We were somewhat astonished to find only the Richmond of 
26 guns at anchor here. Farragut with the Hirtford had 
sailed from Pensacola for New York on November 20th. 
The Metacomet is at New Orleans for repairs and the rest 
are supposed to be on the coast of Texas. 

Sunday^ Dec. 11. To-day a draft of 22 men was sent to 
the Richmond^ the present flagship of the station, now under 
Commodore Thatcher. We start for New Orleans when the 
gale now raging abates. Water again froze on our decks 
and we had to resort to holystoning with dry sand in place 
of scrubbing with water. 

Wednesday^ Dec. 14. We arrived at New Orleans at 3 
A. M. We left Ft. Morgan on Monday, reached the mouth 
of the Mississippi at daylight and passed Fts. St. Philip and 
Jackson about noon yesterday. Just before dark we began 
to see orange groves yellow with fruit. L had sesn no such 
display since leaving Rio de Janeiro im^ years ago. Ait 
apple orchard leaded down with fruit is a baautif ul, cheering 



KEW ORLEANS. TRAK6FERRED TOTHE METACOMET. 23 

sight, bat the color of the omnge is so strikiog that the eye 
is captivated at once. 1 have had to draw of the Paymaster 
more flannels and ehoes. Everything received at the time I 
shipped, amounting to four months pay is gone entirely, also 
several articles since drawn. That is to sa}^ I have served 
the Conntry 3 1-2 months in war time and will have to ser\'e 
as many more months to pay for clothing already drawn, by 
which time the present stock will be in rags. It is a general 
wish that contractors and congressmen might be compelled 
to serve with qs until the latter were willing to famish the 
seamen in the navy with the same clothing in quantity and 
quality that they give to soldiers and marines. It is unjust. 

Tuesday, Dec. 20, 1S€4. We have had our 48 hours of 
liberty ashore, commencing Sunday. I spent each day on 
shore retuining to the ship at sundown to spend the night, 
reporting with a request to be allowed to finish my liberty 
next day. I visited the famous Custom House and the ro 
less famous market, strolled through some of the best streets, 
and gathered some of ihe Spanish moss that gives such a 
ghostly appearance to the double line of trees in the mi^ddle 
of Canal Street. The oleanders growing in the open ground 
in front of the houses had been badly frosted duiing the la4« 
northers. Flowers and shrubs in Jackson^ Square Park or 
Garden were in a sad state from the freezes. I signed my 
accounts with $21.13 due the United States, my extra duty 
pay of $15 for cooking going to pay my debt to Government. 
A raw marine recniit with lighter duties and less exfiosure 
doing the same extra duty would have had about $75 due to 
him. 

Tliursday, Dec. 22. All but the petty oflBcers of the ship 
were transferred to the Metacomet. The carpenters and the 
caulkers were still busy about he r new deck of oak when we 
came aboard. The change had been made to give her more 



24 MY ROVING LlH'lt. 

strea^th ia a seaway; her extreme length and light draft has 
madj her weak-backed so that she buckled to the seas. As 
stores and provisions were to come on board we were set at 
work as soon as we could get into our working clothes. We 
e:xpect to sail on an outer blockading cruise as soon as the 
ship can be gotten ready. Lt. Commander James £. Jouett 
is a very energetic officer, and bis 1st Lieutenant, Actg. 
Vol. Lt. Henry J. Sleeper is a Down East whaler, so we are 
sure of taking prizes if energy and hard work can accomplish 
such result. Our other officers not including engineers are : 
Asst. Surgeon £. D. Payne, (From Pa.) 

Actg. Asst. Paymaster H. M. Harriman. 
Acig. Master Clifford C. Gill — wounded in boat attack on 
Battery Tracy on night of April 11-12, 1865 ; resigned 
a lieutenant June 19, 1882. 
Aotg. Master Henry C. Nields — Mentioned by Fartagutfor 
conspicuous bravery at battle of Mobile Bay ; died a 
Lt. commander Dec. 13, 1880. 
Actg. Ensigns James Brown, Rufus N. Miller. 
Actg. Master's Mates J. E. Goodwin, Charles Harcourt. 
Actg. Gunner James Laman, (appointed A^Ag. lOy 1864.) 

We thus had but one regular officer on board, yet there 
was no lack of discipline or effective work on the part of the 
ship whenever called upon to act. 

8u,nday^ Dec. 25^ 1864. The carpenters got through late 
last night and wc sailed for Mobile Bay to-day with a mon- 
itor in tow. 

Thurddayj Die. 29. We filled the ship brim-full of coal 
on Tuesday. Yesterday was stormy and we put in the day 
at cleaning ship. To-day we sailed at 6 A. M. 

Friday^ Dsc. SO. We sighted a steamer burning bitumi- 
nous coal, considered by us a sure sign of an English ship 
and a blockade-runner, but darkness coming on we lost sight 



AX AKCBQB ADKXrr. TAKS PHZB» DCRIKG A GALE. t5 

ci ker. Onr Piijniaster was the int to see ber «ad rtported 
fcer from the nasthead. WbeQ baiM, ^Cab jon nuke bar 
Mt?" be got tbe Joke apoa bineelC fagF^abooliiig, ^6he '• a 
prise I 8be '• ft Prisel 8be '• boniliig blftck.eMd r He 
meant to have aaid tbat abe made a blaek aaooke. Bj nigbt 
it Uew fiercely from the aontbard and during my lookout at 
the bow in the first watch the ship pitdiad \m ft*|Way to im^ 
k»d my stomach of its aecnmnlated bile ; bat in tbe ammiog 
watch I was enabled to retrieve my character 9m a aeaman 
by being am<Hig the foremost to kelp lecare aa anciior that 
bad broken adrift and was ponncKng the bow of tke skip moat 
dangaroosly. Every sea eame <m board and sobm €i tka 
heavier ones woald sweep ns off our feet and aft nearly to 
tke break of the kurricane deck. Mr. Oil! had to Ball for 
velimteers, so many of the forecastlemen of tke watol^weia 
skowing tke white festher. Jack Lee, Capt.»o'-the*forecaa- 
tk, and cme of his able seamen, John Hudson, stack to tkeir 
duty as forecastlemen and took the most dangeiOQS positiOB 
at tke rail, while Capt.-o'-tke-Aftergnard CoUina, and his 
akie aeaman Dana, a man small of aise bot gritty, wkh tke 
writer aaaisted Mr. Gill inboard. We got both tka aaekofs 
OB deck at laat, relieving tbe bow of the skip of tkeur wei^^ 
so that ibke rose from her plunges mora readliy. Our First 
Lieut., Mr. Sleeper, standing upon the burrieaBa daak oould 
ase tbe ship squirm like an eel. 

Saturday^ Dec. SI, 1€64. The gale coBtinues to be vary 
severe. We sighted a schooner under ckise rsefs and gave 
ckaae, losing sigkt of h^r during a heavy squall of sain bat 
afterward caught sight of kar under bai« poles. WkM tka 
laMick waa called away to board her Mr. Gill ordered bw into 
the boat aa one of kia regular ^^figkting boaVa^^rew.** In tka 
boat were Lee aa coxwain, Hudsos, Dana and myself, witk 
tkiee others of our watch upon one aide of the tJoat and iAm 



t6 XT ROTIKO LUrS. 

picked men of the starboArd wateh sittiiig apon the thirarts 
4m the other aide. We were deatined to paas through man jr 
roagh experienoea together and teamed to depend upon each 
^Iher oader all cireoniatanoes. There waa not a shirk or a- 
eowarl among them. We took poaaeaaion of the Bcbooner, 
Mr. OiU fiodiag her papers rather too old to be regnlar. — 
She waa the iSaa H'Sidk. 

Saim'dg^f Jan. 7, 1865. We have had a stormy cruise 
and have taken only two amali prises, the second one bemg 
the LUjf, a laiga aeow decked over and schooner rigged. In 
the oruiae we went down the coast till sighting the Mezioan 
ahoie, then came back to Galveston, or rather onlaide that 
plaae, it still being in rebel hands. Here we met the supply 
boat Mnyan. I sent a letter home containing $6. (It did 
not %rrive there. (A strange fatality bdfell every money let* 
ter I aent while in the sa*vice.) We got some fresh stores 
from the Morgan and then sailed for Sabine Pass which we 
leached to-day. 

HWneadisy, Jan. 11. We are at sea again after coaling 
ahip under great difficulties, the sea being very rough and 
we working all hands by day and by watclies at night. Our 
ship waa moored a short distance from and abreast the coal 
idiooner. One wateb would go on board her to fill the tubs 
and hoist them out of her Indd while the other remained on 
board the ship to receive the full tubs, empty them into the 
wheelbacrowa sapplied by the c(^lier, and dump them down 
the coal scuttles for the engineci'^ crew to stow away. The 
eoal waa botited and transferred by whips from the mast- 
heads of the two skips. The whips were joined at the tab 
*iid after a tnb was hoisted the whip from the other ship was 
!hanled updo to draw the tub on board, and the hoisting whip 
eased off or lowered at the aame time. This would be all 
smooth work in a smooth sea, but when the two ships rolled 



COAUVG AT SEA IX A GALE. A COKTRABAND*8 DIVE. 27 

Away from each other the tub would take a flying leap into 
the air and then with the reverse roll of the ships would at 
times take possession of the deck, clearing it of men and 
wheelbarrows and hold possession till a chance offered for a 
rush to overpower it. This took time and we made slow 
progress. Coxwain Jack Lee and I were stationed at the 
schooner's hatchway to receive the empty tabs as they came 
back from the ship to be re- filled, and guide them down the 
hatchway to the tub-fillers below. We did some dodging as 
well as catching and more than once made a visit with the 
tub to the hold of the schooper to the surprise of the shov- 
elers standing ready to fill up. In changing the watch one 
midnight at the height of the gale Lee and I stepped into the 
bow of the launch as it rose with the sea. We picked np 
in the stem sheets where we had been thrown by the surge 
upon the boat as it fell with the sea and the long painter or 
towline, fastened at the fore chains, suddenly tautened and 
jerked the boat forwaitl spitefully from under us. At the 
laext sui^e a contraband came aft in a graceful diving atti- 
tude and ^^landed" between the boat and ship. He would 
have been crushed or drowned had we not instantly seized 
him and hauled him into the boat. It was done so quickly 
that the poor fellow had no idea how he came in the stern 
sheets under a pile of shipmates whom we had received very 
much as we had received together the empty tubs for the past 
four hours. At the next surge we had plenty of help, for it 
takes a true man-o'-war's-man but a moment to recover his 
wits on board ship or boat. He gets accustomed to such 
incidents and his whole training tends to enable him to meet 
them with coolness and success. Last night Collins and 1 
had H wheel watch from 12 to 2, ready to steer should the 
ship drag her anchors oi snap the cables and break adrift. 
About one o'clock one of the quarter boats became swamped 



28 KY R0VIK6 LIFE. 

and I was sent down with a bucket to bail her out. Being 
already full she sank with me to my waist and the officer 
began to think with me that it was going to be a tough job, 
no less than bailing out the Gulf of Mexico, so he ordered 
me out» I came out thoroughly wet and stood 2 1-2 hours 
more of watch in my wet clothes. I got so chilled that I 
lay awake till all hands were called in the morning. ]|[n the 
morning after bi*eakfast two men were sent down to try the 
feat and one of them, not taking m^ precaution of a rope 
about the body was washed away from the boat but the other 
swam to him and both were hauled on board wetter than I 
had been. Mr. Sleeper had been watching the work with a 
smile in the corner of his eyes and then suggested that per- 
haps the water would run out of itself if the boat wei*e hooked 
to its takles and the bow hoisted first. It was done and the 
anchor being a weigh we put to sea. We learn that the S2(i 
WUch had 32-lb. shot for ballast and a lot of powder, while 
the Lily had quinine, percussion caps, and rifle powder on 
board, making them sure prizes. We took the scow in tow 
for Southwest Pass to cast her off there for some tug to tow 
to New Orleans for condemnation and sale. The wind and 
sea went down soon after starting and we had a pleasant 
passage. We are bound to Pensacola for repairs and to fill 
up to our complement of men. 

Friday^ Feb. 5, 1865. We have remained at Pensacola 
Navy Yard since the middle of January having our forward 
deck re-caulked and the copper re-placed and fastened by a 
diver. We received a new commander, Capt Crosby. We 
ooaled up by wheeling it from a pile in the Yard to the ix>af 
scuttles on deck, and to-day we put to sea on another cruise 
for blockade-runners. While at Pensacola I «ent home a 
letter with $10 in it. (The usual fatality attending it.) 

Tuesday y Feb. 7. We made the land last night ^^0 miles 



f ABIKE TABB. OALTSSTOV. XEW ORLEAK8. 89 

cast of 8abiDe Pass and aiiriiored two inil€H from the beach. 
This nuHning the anpply steaoier Bermic<la came in sight and 
mmiing down to na pot aboard f leah meat and vegetaUea 
for the men and other stores for the officers. We both ibem 
raced to Sabine Faaa, we beating them tbirty minntes in the 
thirtj miles. She brooght as news of the taking of Wilp 
mington. 

Wtdnesdojf, F^. 8, 1666. We went to sea last night, 
bot to-day is so roogh that we are making for tiie land. It 
is understood that we have oideni not to posh the ship into 
heavy weather iinneceisarily, f<Nr we inay soon be wanted to 
cover the landing of troops when the ship will need its foil 
strength to withstand the ehock of heavy firing. Moieover 
we are getting of the opinion that blockade-mnning la nboot 
given op as we have not seen a sospidoos vessel since leaving 
Pensacola. We anchored with the fleet off Galveston in the 
afternoon and learned they had made a raid inside the forts 
one night and bad cot oot two Uockade-mnners loaded wkh 
cotton and Just ready to ron oot. A third was ron ashore 
to the westward of the bay and one <^ oar gonboats was 
shelling her. 

Fridajfy Feb 10^ 1866. We got under weigh at noon in 
company with the Bi^ivUlB which daims to be the fastest on 
tbeatatioo. In the race that ensoed we gained at the rate 
of a mile each hour. We overhauled one of the schooners 
taken ai Galveston and. on her way to New Orleans for her 
condemnation and sale. The weather is fine and warm and 
the sea smooth. Just right for our ship to show her best foot 
at steaming. In heavy weather the BkntiUt would peihaptf 
leave us astern. 

Satmrdaif^ Feb. 11. My frequent wettings with salt water 
and exposure are resulting in boils and salt-water sores. I 
bad to go to the doctor yesterday with a large boil upon my 



10 MT wyimro Lirs. 

kn oe^ Mm that wmi giviag mm caoefa tnmble to get about at 
my dolj. I VM p«l on tbe tide Ust sad had » poaltice pat 
^pOB it. To*day it wim opeaed and agaia poolttoedv betag 
ffta^ iaiMied. 

Smmitipj JW. IS, 1965. We am at andior at New Or- 
leaaa agate. The weather is warm aod pieaaant. it is the 
general optnion that we go to Molnle from here rery worn. 

Mmim^y #b6. 13. We are taking in eoal and aaranni- 
tkm, as also oar broadside gone which had been left h»« on 
going apoa tiie eraise for l»ftoekade*rannerB. 

F/idoy, JM. 17. We are still at Mew Orleans but expect 
to sail to-aight with a nMMiitor in tow. Orders are that no 
one be allowed to go ashore. A draft took place at New 
Orieaaa oa tbe 15th aad sums as high as |i500 were paid 
to sabstitotes. The boil on my knee came to a head and 
barst last night, and I put in some soand sleeping after it. 

iSaaday, F^. 19. We arrived at Mobile Bay with a mon- 
liar in tow and afterward went to the front. 

iSsadfl^, F^. 20. We have been here a week and nothing 
of importance has ooourred as the weather has been Stormy, 
with heavy rains. There ate here only the MUawmH aad 
iktorera^ lioth double^nden, the propeller gunboat S^daia, 
(these three being sebooner rigged,) the monitor Winneboffo^ 
aad the armed tug Pink. Last night one of our boats weat 
ap Appalacbe Chaoael ami in front of the rebel batteries to 
soand for the depth of water. They fonad oaly seven feet 
of water an the bar, wMeh ppeveats our tryiag to pass, as 
wa draw over nine feet. A Maok saaAe is rising dowa the 
hmj showing tfiat a aioaitor is coming op. She evMeatiy is 
coming to relieve the WinM^ngo for her to go down to eoal 
as that monitor is apparently stirriag up her banked ires to 
start her engines. We are all keeping'a^.8ttfEcient head of 
ateam to enable us to move at an instanfs warning, for it i^ 



OFF KOBILX. BOIT DCrr AGAIN. TSE BEBEL FLAO S| 

tewned tluit ibe rehela have another torpedo boat ready to 
cone out sgainsl vb. The flrBt ose waa intended to tun a 
eborl diatance under water. It ia »aid to have been taken 
to Charlesion and was very effective in sinking berwU and 
Jk«r owie erttrt. A Btriet lookoat Is kept b; ns lo prerent • 
torpedo boat reaching as. Tbirty-tercn armed men are oa 
guard in boats and in all parts of the ship, blue-l%bts ready 
to ^ite and Ibe rest of the watch with side arms on atand at 
their gona. Under a flag of trace the rebels yesterday sent 
a lot of packages to their friends, oar prisonert at Ship Is> 
land. Onr boat was sent to meet tbem and 1 had a eloae view 
of Ibe rabel flag. It is represented below. 



THE REBEL FLAG. 

The boats met and after a distant salate b; tbe <rfDcerB 
lltey came together, side by side. TIm boxes and parcels 
were ailenlly passed into our lx>at, tliey shoved off and we 
returned to onr ehip, tbe white flag was baoled down, and 
we were enemiea again. 

Sunday., Mar. S. There have been frequent tmce flags 
flying the past week and last Friday an Army boat came np 



32 MY BOVING LIFE. 

with a lot of priBoners for exchange, returtiiug belovr la&t 
night. Another monitor came up this morning and tlie 
O(^arora went below. The remaining monitor is stripping 
herself of her torpedo rake to go below, so it is not probable 
that we intehd to attack just yet. The rebels ought to feel 
like the boj told to stop after school to take a whipping, but 
perhaps think they can ^'lick the master*' and feel indifferent 
about the time of commencement. Captain Crosby orders 
services read every Sabbath, which gives that long respite 
from work. Several of our men crawled ashoi*e on the haw- 
ser ai New Orfeans the night before we were to sail, with the 
intention of having one more good time and returning before 
daylight. They overstayed and were brought on board by 
the police In response to offered rewards. They have been 
kept in double-irons on bread and water till now. Yester- 
day they were court-martialed for desertion. The Court 
did not comply with certain rules and the revising authority 
dissolved it and remanded the men to their duty. Captain 
Crosby making great show of anger at the Court's failure to 
comply, warning the men that for any succeeding offense he 
would see to it that the Court proceed regularly. They had 
already "'piil the tiddler" pretty roundly for their dance 
and were thoroughly frightened. Our 1st lieutenant is an 
energetic man and though he works us hard is inclined to 
favor those that he sees are always ready to do their full 
duty, and is sure to impose extra duty for any shirking. In 
furling 49ails the afterguard have tlie mainsail to furl. He 
had seen me furling it alone several successive times and at 
last called me down when I had it half furled, saying that 
he would see if he could not make others do a little of the 
work. He mustered the afterguard of both watches and each 
man, commeneing with the captains of each watch, had to 
furl the sail in turn and loosen it for the next man Ux f4rl, 



COM. THATCHER COMES UP WITH THE FLEET. 83 

until every man had performed the datj to his satisfaction. 
He told them at first why be disciplined them and then sent 
me forward. The boys took it pleasantly, kcowing they 
deserved it. A new station bill was made ont, and to-day 
we were called to furl sail under it. I had received orders 
to take my station and do that duty only, and when I took 
my place and answered my muster as to ^^stand by the lee 
vang to slack it if necessary," there were smiles among the 
officers — the men forward had had their laugh over the joke 
on the aftei^uard as they studied the station bill. Seamen 
will understand its nature but landsmen may hiave to be told 
that the slacking of that rope would be very rarelj', if ever, 
needed. My stations now are mostly light and easy, requir- 
ing a person of intelligence and integrity. My hardest task 
is being one of those selected to stand upon gratings close 
to the water's edge on dark, rainy nights armed with Spencer 
magazine rifle, revolver and cutlass, with orders to ''first 
use your Spencer against any ei^ar-sho|X'd thing coming 
toward the ship, then uee your levt 1/er and last your cutlass, 
but stand your ground,'^ At target practice it developed that 
I was one of their best off-hand shots, hence this station and 
that at quarters to stand by the relieving-tackles ready to 
Fteer in case the wheel became useless, and act as a shai*p- 
shooter in close action. 

Thursday^ Mar. 9, 1864. Commodore Thatcher came up 
to-day in a small dispatch boat and in it reconnoitered the 
r^bel batteries, drawing their fire as I.e made the circuit of 
shore line. Only c>ne shell gave evidence of decent marks- 
manship, it passing about twenty feet above the hurricane 
deck of the little l)oat as she sped swiftly past, exploding as 
it struck the water. He then returned to Fort Morgan. 

Saturday^ Mar. 11. A fleet of gunboats, monitors, and 
tiu-clads carce up, so that there were here seven gunboats, 



84 MT BOVIKG LIVE. 

five monitors, and four tin-clads. These tiu-clads are Mis- 
sissippi River boats of very light draft, clad with boiler-irou 
to protect the crew and troops upon them from infantry fire 
and armed with two 30-pdr rifles in the bow and several brasn 
howitzers in broadside. They form quite efi'ective boats for 
operations in shallow waters. {I have recently seen a state- 
ment coming from the editor of the Engineefs Gazette that 
these ^Hin-clads had four screw propellers, the first adoption 
of multiple screws for propulsion." I have no recollection 
of noticing any difference between their mode of propulsion 
and that of the CindnncUi^ a sketch of which I give farther 
on. Both may have used several screws of small diameter 
to propel them, a device necessitated by their light draft, 
while the old stern-wheel paddle-boxes were allowed to re« 
main for storage purposes and to draw the fire of the rebels' 
artillery. In motion their wake would be the same.) They 
were named as well as numbered, but were designated by 
the number painted on each. The monitors were the Mil- 
wauksej Kickapoo^ Chickasavr^ and the Winnebobgo. Besides 
these we had the ram Osage^ a Mississippi-River iron-dad 
of the Fremont pattern, more heavily plated than a tin*clad, 
yet drawing only 2 1-2 feet of water. The Chickasaw and 
Milwajikee were sent to feel the batteries lining the western 
shore while the others steamed slowly along the east shore. 
At 2 P. M. tue OiOijs fired t«ro guns, the shot striking the 
water a short distance ahead, when the Cv)mmodore steamed 
over to them. The eastern batteries did not return a single 
shot, but in the meantime a white steamer was plying from 
the town to their heaviest, or Water Battery, at the foot of 
the bill overlooking Appalache Channel, apparently carryings; 
troops. (See the map, page 39.) Upon the western shore 
Missouri Battery, just below the obstructious, opened fire 
on our monitors but was soon silenced with shells that struck 



A RECOKNOISAKCE IN FORCE BY THE FLEET. 85 

with quite good accuracy in their midst. Battery Buchanan, 
of seven beav}^ rifles, opposite the upper end of the liiie of 
piles driven diagonally across the channel was able to send 
a shell at times to near the lower end of the obstructions, 
but most of them fell short of that point. A battery built 
upon piles in front of the city commanding both the western 
or main channel and the near approach to the city by Blakely 
River from the east was hardly abie to send a shot as far as 
Battery Buchanan. The Morgan remained silent. 80 far 
we had it our own way, and at 5 P. M. the monitors were 
recalled. We cleared for action when the fleet appeared in 
the forenoon but were not kept at quarters long and had a 
fine view of the afternoon's proceedings. The tin-dads kft 
US at night. Their part of the work and also oars appeared 
to be to stand ready to go to the assistance of any monitor 
disabled while in action. 

Sunday^ Mar. 12^ If 66. This morning we found that 
two of the monitors had disappeared. One of those remain- 
ing has been reconnoitering the eastern shore. Otherwise 
all is quiet and Sabbath^like. 

Monday^ Mar. 13. A rebel flag of truce came down this 
forenoon and the mail boat soon after went down the bay 
with di^patclies. All the extra gunboats end all but one of 
the monitors have left us. Saturday's demonstration made 
the rebels show their hand, so that we now know very nearly 
what we will have to encounter in our advance if attempted 
at once. Any delay by us enables them to increase and to 
perfect their presei.t eastern shore defenses. 

Thursday ^ Mar. 16. The dispatch boat came up early in 
the morning with an answer to the rebels' flag of truce of 
Monday and we sent in it in by a flag of truce soon after. 

Sunday^ Mar. 19. We came down the bay last Friday 
night to coal up ready for the attack which is to be made in 



86 UY KOTINU LIFK. 

a few days. The advance of the Army laiiiUd on the east- 
ern shore near Alabama City on Tfanraday and with the 2nd 
Maine Cavalry from Pensacola had a slight engagement with 
Ifae enemy. There are tiei-e some half dozen monitors and 
the Fremont pattern of iron-clade, the Oia:ie and CiitctMicUi. 
The Otage was present at Ibe demouslration of Saturday, the 
llth instant, but the Ci>ici>*>Mti did not arrive here till last 
Friday night, having been on duty on llie Mississippi River 
until now. She is one of the fleet of aimor-clad gunboats 
used in tahing plaoes ou the Mississippi and its tributaries. 
8be is well adapted to that purpose, being of light draft and 
mounting 14 guns, some of tbem, if not all being 30-pounder 
tifles that would I>e quite effective at ehort range gainst the 
32-pounder smooth-bores of the rebel forts. I look a slcetuh 
of her which I reproduce by a out of my own manufaoture. 



FREMONT'S IRON-CLAD RIVER-GUNBOAT 
CINCINNATI. 

Myudny, Mur. 20, 1865. This morning there were lying 
at anchor ivitta na off Fort Morgan ready tu steam up to thf 
front the gunboats Oeneaee and Albatross, the CUciHimti. 
tin-clad No. 42, and three mouitors. The others bad been 
already sent to support the advauca of thz army th:it had 
lauded on Thui'sday. All got under weigh at 10 A. M. and 



f HELLIKG TBE ITOODS. ABMT LAVD8 JkT FICB KIVKK. W 

followed CooQiiiocloTe Thatcher in his dispatch boat Olargotc. 
After pasaing a monitor on daty off Alabama City on the 
eaatern point of the bay we commenced to ahell the wooda. 
We found that many of the f iiaes to a lot of 2C0 percnasion 
ehella bad been tampered with, only five out of aizty-two 
bnrating, rendering them nselese except ae salld ahot. As 
tolid ahot, however, they mowed awathes in the treea that 
mnat have made staying in that vicinity rather cnpleaaant. 
The other vessels had better luck, nearly all berating in the 
woods in front of onr advancirg troopa. We aaw one ahelt 
paae through the roof of a large, square hooae and aet fire to 
something in the rear of it. One shell of ours made a large 
doorway through a neat little cottage on the bank. This 
brought a severe reprint and from Csptain Croaby, whodoea 
*^not believe in shelling private houaes." When we neared 
the upper fleet the lianca^ O.Ujrora^ Sciata^ a monitor, the 
tug P6»jl\ and even the diminutive tug Ida took a hand at it, 
dodging around among the larger veeaela to cai ry orders and 
barking like a little pug imagining he ia taking a \'ery prom- 
inent part in a melee among the big doga. Our carpenter 
bad recently built a small platform at our stern for one of 
onr boat's hovitaera, and our Gunner, Mr. Lemon, was at 
work mounting the gun as the I'a passed. Iler gun's crew 
could hardly wait to get past our siem before firing. The 
unexpected explosion behind them with the paasage of thf 
shell close to tlieir heads made Mr. Lemon and his gun's crew 
dodge, amusing those on the tug. Shaking hia fiat at the 
perpetratora of the joke Mr. Leuion went on witbhia work. 
He could aiford to laugh with others at the occerrenoe, for' 
his warrant came to him tbroagh coolness and efficiency at 
the fiasaage of the forts. At my particular atation 1 had 
nothing to do and could watch the prooeedtnga. A little 
skiff pushed off from the shore apparently intending to visit 



38 MT ROVIKO LIFE. 

some of our vessels, but the men acted as if badly frightened 
upon a near approach to any of our fleet. At times they 
seemed very green at the oars, lifting the blades high above 
their heads and making other curious movements. Again, 
they would rush into the very line of fire of some vessel as 
if insane. As that ship at once moved ahead enough to get 
L)eyond the line of the boat in every instance, and as each 
curious movement of the boatmen seemed to precede /ifbme 
change in action of certain of our ships, I concluded that the 
boat's crew knew what they were about, and that the cap- 
tains of our ships and the army knew what they meant, also 
that the little Ha was on hand if the change was not made. 
The monitors and Fremont iron-clads were close in shore 
and needed no boat to transmit army signals to them. The 
lighter gunboats took stations farther out, while we had to 
lay ol still farther an 1 tire at elevation tj papper the woods. 
Not a single shot was returned an J at 6 P. M. we hauled off 
and anchored with the up;jer fleet. After dark we got under 
weigh and steamed down to some place unknown to me, but 
supposed to.be at Fish River where our troops had gone into 
camp. Very rainy all night and the watches got soaking 
wet in short order. The army boys must have unpleasant 
beds on such a night. 

Tuesday^ Mir. 21^ 196 j. We got up our anchor before 
daylight and steamed down to the lower fleet at Ft. Morgan. 
We find that the jar from firing has made the ship leak so 
that we have to keep a steam pump going all the time. We 
worked with the hand pump three-fourths of the time before 
starting the steam pump. At 10 A. M. we started up the 
bay again, reaching the upper fleet at noon. At 3 P. M. a 
dispatch boat brought news that the main army was landing 
at Fish River and we were ordered down with the Om^^se, 
the monitors, and Nj. 42 to cover thair lanllaT. At ab>it; 



UAF OF MOBIl^ BAY AM) BIECX OF EPAKISH FORT. 39 




40 MY SOVIKO Lirs. 

4 P^ M. we commenced to shell the woods ahead of the army 
and fired forty shells before 6 P. M. We got our supper 
after 7 o*clock and lay here (at M^ on map) all night. The 
troops laaded without opposition and are quietly occupying 
the woods, their camp-fires biutung brightly and the extent 
of smoke above the trees showing that the force is large. 

Thursday^ M'tr. 28^ 1865.. In the two hours that I was 
on lookout last night five transports arrived with troops and 
shot into the little bay at the mouth of the river. They had 
been landing at the same rate all day yesterday. The 2nd 
Maine Cavalry had a sharp fight wijth the rebels on Tuesday- 
morning showing that our shells alone have kept them from 
giving our troops a warm reception at their landing. The 
army transports loaded with troops continue to shoot. into 
the river from down the bay quite regularly each half-hour, 
a new one arriving almost as soon as. landing space is clear. 
A tin-clad and a monitor are lying in the river just above 
that landing for protection, while the rest of the fleet cover 
the landing from the bay shore, where stores seem to be the 
lading. • 

Saturday^ M%r» 25. Last night we took a picket station 
At Cedar Point, on the western shore (at M^ on the map) in 
sight of Ft. Morgan light. We could not see that any of our 
troops were here, though rumor says that Oen. Steele was 
to land at this point. We returned to the eastern shore in 
the morning at earliest dawn and anchored some distance 
below the mouth of Fish River. After breakfast our boat 
took a patty of our ofl9cers ashore hunting. Being my turn 
to keep boat I did not get nearer than a quarter-mile to the 
dry land. Those who went ashore had to wade that distance 
and some of the men who waded barefoot got badly cut by 
the oyster shells on the bottom. Our oflScers got five dirty, 
lean, smaH land-pikes which they called wild bogs. They 



TBE ABUT ADVAKCK UKDSK COTSK OF OUB GUK6. 41 

had ccrtJUDlj been wild enough, but their eare showed that 
some other roan had already pat hie tally upon them. We 
got to the ship a little before supper time hungry as hunters, 
ate our dinners whipb had been kept warm for us in obedi* 
ence to a rule in the navy, and then finished off with the pot 
of tea at oor sides already poured for our individual use but 
by another rule must not be touched by us till the whistle of 
the boatswain bad uttered its third or **pipe down" note for 
supper. Refugees on board say that the army will meet no 
resistance until our ships can go no farther, but afterward 
the resistance will be stubborn. 

Sunday^ Mar. 26^ 1866. After a deal of signaling wi& 
the Army we got under weigh and played about among the 
fieet, giving instructiors verbally to follow us in line of bat* 
tie to cover the army's advance toHowaid's wharf, which we 
are told is the highest that Ehips of our draft can skirt the 
shore. We came to anchor (at M* on map) a little below 
that wharf after innning our nose into the mud a little way 
above it. The t^rmy followed without the least opposition 
and went into camp abreast of us. While coming up w# 
fired but three shells. The targets were hit so effectively in 
each instance that none others were needed. The captain of 
our forward pivot gun (a Vl-inch rifle throwing a shell of 100 
pounds) was named Granger, said to be a nephew of Gen. 
Granger. Capt. Crosby, now Bear Admiral Pierce Crosby^ 
retired, asked Granger if he thought he could take a slice out 
of the middle of a long wharf running out to a boat-house in 
deep water a mile ahead. Granger had fired that gun every 
time since the ship went into commission, and the result of 
hia first shot was that about twenty feet of the planking and 
timbers went fiying through the air from the middle of the 
^ ^bridge" (see map) connecting the boat-house with the land. 
^^Good!" shouted the captain. ^^Now, Granger, put one 



42 mr BOtiNO Lim. 

into the boftt-liocuie l" Granger did so to the consternation 
of a section of artillery secreted there. They fled for the 
land with their gans in tow, but coming to the gap found it 
too wide to jump with their guns. They left them and4;ook 
to the wfiter in great haste to reach the shore by wading. — 
On coming within sighting distance of piles of sawdnst at a 
mill Jndt above Howard's wharf Grai^er was told to put a 
shell into the sawdust pile dose to tiie shore. Granger at 
once kicked up such a dust abonl them that another lot of 
artillery men dusted out of their hiding place. They must 
have thought with the Irishman ^^Arrah, Sam, somebody 
must have towld yez now ! " They possiUy would have been 
quite correct, for the owner of the large, square house that 
we had put a shell through had been hounded by them for 
showing a white flag and was standing at the captain's side 
to pilot the ship as near the shore as our draft would permit. 
In the afternoon there ap^^eared to be a consultation of the 
leading army and navy officers on board our ship. At the 
palae time a train of pontoon boats came up in tow of a river 
iKiat. 

Monday, M%r, 27, 1865. The launch was sent wltii a 
seine to fish for torpedos alongside of and near to Howanrs 
Wharf. We caught no torpedos but did catch a mess of fish 
for tiie ship's company. The Commodore oame up at noon. 
We learn from one of the signal corps at the wharf that the 
army had some skirmishing with the rebels on the back road 
which runs three miles from the beach and had a few men 
wounded, but had met with no opposition to speak of. On 
yesterday the rebels landed 4000 troops at the hill battery, 
which they call Spanish Fort, and at 1 P. M. to«day oom« 
menced to shell our advance. It is raining, making work 
in the water doubly unf^easant. Another train of pontoons 
arrived this morning, also a large river transport loaded with 



JkJmX ATTACKS SPANISH FOBT. TORPEDO DRAGGIKO. 43 

troops. We have here the four monitors Chicasaw^ Kickapoo^ 
Miltcavkee^ and Winnebago^ the Fremont iron-clads Osage 
and Cincinnati^ the tin-clads 42 and 48 (Rudolfh^) the pro- 
peller gunboat Sciqta^ and the double-enders Metacomet and 
Octorora. The two tin-clads and others of the fleet seem to 
be forming a chain of boats near the army at landing points 
on the eastern shore from Gen. Canby's headquarters to Ft« 
Morgan. After dinner Mr. Sleeper, took the launch, first 
>cutter, and whaleboat up the eastern shore line. He took 
the whaleboat to sound that little passage to see if our mon- 
itors could go by it to help the army. We were tA drag for 
any torpedos the rebels might have placed there. We found 
no tori)edos and no passage except for the lighter tin-clads 
and transports. We went up to the point of land where the 
left of our army line was in position and Mr. 81eeper in the 
whaleboat went around the point in the dusk of evening to 
see if the I'ebels could i-each our army with anything heaviet 
than we could meet them with. That boat's crew saw the 
infant]*y fight, but we saw only the steady, clock-hke action 
of a battery close to the bank abreast of us which kept up a 
continuous roar with their pieces. Our cavalry got among 
torpedos yesterday, but those who placed them in the ground 
were caught and compelled to take them up again. We were 
well soaked with the rain. We have an advantage over the 
army boys as we could don dry clothes when we reached the 
ship at 7 P^ M. They dry themselves by their campfires. 

Tuesday^ Mar. 28^ 1865. 1 have been on duty twedty-six 
hours in the past thirty-two ; in a boat most of the time. A 
new boat's crew of twelve picked men was selected for the 
launch last n^ht in anticipation of a stretch of serious work. 
The discarded ones of the old crew feel sore about it. We 
started at daylight this morning to cut small trees and stake 
out a passage for the monitors to go up Appalache Channel 



44 MT ROVING LIFE. 

to the help of the army which is almost constantly engaged. 
We had bat four hours of sleep lisist night after a hard day^s 
work dragging for torpedos. We were started at five o'clock 
without a morsel to eat since seven o'clock last night, and 
contiiraed to work until 10 : HO A. M., when our stakes were 
set. Oifii^rs somelimes forget that men are apt to work as 
they are fed. We had worked cheerfully cutting the stakes 
expecting to be allowed to go on board the ship and get our 
breakfast as we passed the ship at breakfast time, but when 
we found that we were not to get anything to eat until the 
stakes were set our strokes became feeble and slow. Mr. Gill 
(hard O) who is the officer of our boat noticed this at once 
and wanted to knoT if we had anything to eat before we 
started. Finding that we had not he said *Mt shall not 
happen again while we are working at this business if I can 
help it. Rememl)er that I am in the same fix and the sooner 
the work we are ordered to do is done the sooner we get our 
grub." This put a different face upon the matter, for Mr. 
Gill was a popular officer, and the boys put more force upon 
their oars, finding they frere punishing him and themselves 
instead of the one to whom they wished to show disapproval 
of his treatment of them. We reached the ship in season lo 
eat our breakfast and dinner together after the others were 
through eating, and just in season to start again at 1 P. M. 
to drsg the channel for torpedos. I had come aboard with 
a severe headache which a cup of coffee before we started in 
the morning would probably have prevented. Nearly cold 
boiled rice and salt beef with the pot of cold coffee from our 
breakfast ration made rather an unsatisfactory meal after a 
fast of nearly eighteen hours, all but four of which had been 
spent at labor. The rebel gunboats had commenced to shell 
our troops about ten o'clock and our monitors were ordered 
to go up Appalache Channel to meet them. The rebels did 



DRAGGING FOR T0RPEP08. A MOKITORSUKK. 45 

not wait to be met bat pat h^ek to Mobile before oar motii'- 
tors reached the bar. Alioot 3 P. M. the rebels opened fire' 
from their Water Battery on oor boat which was just below 
the Marsh ChaaneL They planted one shell where we bad 
been bat a few moments before and its explosion jost under 
the sarfaee drenched as with water and half filled oor boat. 
^* Poll steady, boys 1 Don't miss a stroke !" said Mr. Gill. 
^^ Every officer in the fleet has his glass npon us. We will 
take eare of the torpedos and the Commoiiore will take care 
of us," and proceeded to bail out the boat with one hand 
while holding the end of the drag*rope with the other. In a 
short time he added — ^^ There goes the signal, boys, for the 
}Milwauke€ to cover us." We feathered oar oais with the 
utmost nicety, every oar at a horizontal as it went forward 
for the next stroke. Two of the monitors soon steamed op 
past us to near the head of the channel, drove the steamers 
away and silenced the water battery by a 15*inch shell that 
burst within it. While returning to anchor just below oor 
boat, thinking it most be clear of torpedos, the Mthoaukee 
struck a torpedo abreast of her after magazine as she swung 
to her anehor, and commenced to sink very rapidly in nine 
feet of water. Jn less time than we could turn our boats and 
reach her side from a distance of not over 250 yards her stern 
was two feet under water and on the bottom, while the bow 
was as far out of water and stu<^ in the mod at the side of 
the channel. They had given her full speed at once and let 
the chain run out to push her into the shoal at the side of the 
cliannel at ^ ^Milwaukee, X" on the map. The Engineer on 
duty obeyed the signal of ^^four bells" before the accompa- 
ny log order of ^^Every man on deck P The man stationed 
in the after magazine was pulled out of it from under water 
by tiie powder passers and helped on deck. The forward 
compartment was clear so that the men lost nothing, but the 



46 XT ROVING LIKE. 

oiBcers saved nothing. The discipline was excellent, there 
being not the least sign of panic on her deck. There was a 
little dog on board that seemed greatly confused by the un* 
Qsoal state of the ship and I asked an officer if we might take 
him on board the Meiacomet nntil they were established in 
better qaarters, promising good care of him on the part of 
oar shipmates. When bidden to go to me the little fellow 
earled himself down in my lap, glad to find a refuge. He 
would occasionally place his paws upon the gunwale of our 
boat to watch the work on board, then look up into my face 
witli an expression of inquiry plainly asking ^^What is the 
matter with^my old home?" Getting a pleasant word from 
me and a patting from my mates be would curl down again 
in apparent content, but we noticed that he watched every- 
qK>vement of the officer giving htm into our care, as read> to 
return to her deck as were the few men who stepped into our 
boat at the invitation of Mr. Gill when we first reached her 
wde and before we knew she was already on the bottom. — 
We remained alongside while their officers were signaling to 
the Commodore for instructions, and then resumed our work 
at dragging. After everything had been made snug the men 
were put on board the Winnebago by other boats that were 
sent from the fleet for the purpose and the officers were given 
quarters above water. When we got back to the ship at 7 
P. M. 1 was too sick and tired to eat my supper. I felt 
about used up. A half hour of sleep lying upon the bare 
deck was very refreshing and 1 ate my supper to be ready to 
start again at 8 o'clock for an all night*s work divided into 
dragging and picket duty. 

Wednesdajf^ Mar. 29, 1865. At 8 o'clock this morning 
I had been oo active duty thirty-eight hours out of the past 
forty-eight, rowing a boat nearly all the time. Troops are 
still coming up by transports and the front of the army is 



AKOTBER OF OUB SHIPS 8UKK BY A TOBPEDO. 47 

engaged almost eonstanlly with the enemy at Spanish Fort. 
To-day we were pained to witness another disai^r. While 
going to the front to tnke part inproteeting the army from 
the shells of the rebel fleet the iron-elail ram Oaofs stmek a 
torpedo at the eastern aide of the ehannel at ^^OMfe X*' on 
the map^ and sank at ones. She had two men UUed and 
forty*five wounded. She is a complete wreek. We begin 
to think these advances to shell oar troops aw a device of tbf 
rebels to draw cor ships into the inihienee of their torpedos 
to destroy them. They mn away after getting onr vvssehi 
to enter the channel, where we feel snre they send down n 
fresh sopply of torpedos erery night. Mr. Oill proposes cm 
another night to go np higher on picket than his orders say, 
to see if we can catch them at it. These torpedos are sim|^y 
powder barrels half foil of powder -and encircled 'by seTerai 
percQssion fuses in soch positions that a blow gainst the 
barrel anywhere will explode one or more. The barrel ia 
kept below the sorface by a chain and hemispherical weight 
whose flat side resting lightly upon the bottom alk>wB the 
corrent to work the sandy mod from nnder it and float the 
torpedo, always sabmerged, gradnally down stream ontil it 
reaches still water at the channers edge ready to do its foul 
work of destmction. This accounts for their presence Josl 
after oor drag*ropes had passed over a locality. The bight 
of onr ropes dragging along the bottom is sore to catch the 
torpedo by the chain between theweight and barrel and hold 
it securely while we row across the channel to shoal water. 
Hers a man from each of the two boats dragging together 
drops CMref oily overboard to hold the barrel flrmly while a 
third man bores a h<de in its side with a copper-coated aognr. 
Water is then allowed to enter and the thing soffers death 
by diowning. The use of a steel angor before passing Fort 
Moigan cansed us the loss of two boats and thenr crews, the 



48 XT ROVIKO LIPX. 

rebels ooftttng the inside of tlieir barrels with material for 
ex|riodiiig by frictloD. 

Tkurmlap, Mmr. 30^ 1S6S. We were called away at 8 : 90 
P. M. yesterday^ }ust half an boar before supper, to drag 
for torpedos all night. It rained and blew hard from the 
■orthf wetting and chilting us throngh. We were getting no 
lorpedos and at ten o'clock Kr. Gill retamed to the ship to 
fet a lighter boat, hoping we might be allowed to go aboard 
to get onr suppers or at least for something to eat. We got 
erden instead to «^^ Shove off and return to work !'* When 
«re went aiongside the Kick ipoo^ oar rendesvous forchang- 
mg duties with the picket boats Mr. Gill told the oQoers of 
that monitor of oor supperless condition. Her offioere were 
not backward in expressing opinions on the matter and we 
got a cup ^ hot coffee and a biscuit apiece by order of the 
^^ranking <^toer" present. (It is barely possible that this 
came to the notice of Commodore Thatcher through a requi- 
iition for the amount of the Kkkap&o Paymaster's stores of 
eoffee, sugar, and bread ^*ezpended" for us. Ofllcerft find 
ways of brii^i^ grieTances tothe attention of headquarters 
without reporting acts of their superiors. At aniy rate we 
did not have to test the Kidcapoo*9 hospitality again. ) Mr. 
Gill told ufi to snatch a couple of biscuit from our messes 
before entering the boat another time and that he would get 
the cofliee and sugar from the army store*boats on the way up. 
We started from the Kickapao*9 side for our picket station 
warmed and cheered in spite of the norther and its cold rain, 
for not only onr stomachs but our hearts had been warmed* 
We went up Blakely River till we saw the rebel boats and 
watched them some time, then ioated down stream again. 
We hear that the army has cut off all communication by land 
with Mobile. If so we expect our monitors will soon go up' 
above the channel and the torpedos, thus by one bold stroke 



WE STILL DRAG, THE OCTORORA GETS OYER THE BAR. 49 

cutting off their commanication by water and compelling an 
early sarrenderof the fort and batteriee on the eastern side. 
The longer we stay below the Marsh Channel the mofe of 
oar ships will snflfer from torpedos. We got back to the 
strip St € : 30 this morning after fifteen hoars boat duty in the 
teeth of a norther. The Oetorora wss gotten over the bar 
to-day by remoTing her battery and heavy arUdes; bot In 
getting her forward pivot 100*pdr. rifle bsck sgain the maift 
of the PifiX: was broken, which causes a delsy in any forwat^ 
movement on the O0ft>rom*s psrt. 

Friday^ Mar. 31, 1€6S. The Octowra is shelling the 
rebel gnnboats at long range, they havii^ cefnmeneed again 
to shell 4Hir troops. It is said there are aboat 12000 troops 
at Spanish Fort. Last night our pid^t boats got hokl of 
what appeared to be a hawser lying on the bottom across the 
channel near the head of the Marsh, bat which they were not 
able to raise. It is thought that it may be ttieir intention to 
tanten it when we attempt to adrance above that point ani 
perhaps to float a nest of torpedos against it for our benefit. 
Its finding suggests a similar contrivance to stop their Un>- 
pedes at the foot of the Marsh Channel and save ooiselves 
much work at dragging and perhaps some ships. To-day 
we have been preparing a net of ratlin staff (tarred rope a 
little larger than clothesline) to set a. little b^w the marsh 
to ward off torpedos from the anchorage of the monitors 
after they go up to that point. I signed aceonnts with the 
Government having $1 1.29 doe tne, after six months of war 
semce, but as I will have to draw a new sopi^y of clothing 
early in April I will then be in debt again. 

Saturday J Apr* 1. We were called away last night after 
supper in company with the 2nd cotter for a special duty. 
Yesterday the Eoldiers, moire adventarous, or perhaps nnder 
lees severe discipline than we are, pulled in and cat oat an 



50 MX ROVINO Llff«. 

ttd steftmboat hulk kept for a.hoBpital by the rebels and tu 
face of the rebel batteries toired her dowa to the moath of 
Blahely BiTer. As she was useless to as and in a positton 
lo be used to meoaoe oar picket boats the Winn^Mgo's boat 
bOAided and set her on fire tonight. The Iroldier boys' dash- 
was lafhar iU*tainad, as the episode prevented oar making 
an intended raid to-night to oat out a barge loaded with 
aamnnition. It iUiistrated the necessity of strtot obedience 
ko ofdsrs in war and the un-^wisdom of unaathorized separate 
action. We anchored just below the borning hulk^ with the 
lest id tibe pieket boats of the fleet for the remainder of the- 
night. The 2nd cotter's crew were greatly disappointed as 
this was a speoial detail and their first inning in the game. 
Onraachiog the anchorage of the fleet this morning we fonnd 
that owr ship luid gone over to the western shore to coal up 
at a sebooaer there. Were it not for our breakfast waiting 
«or arrival we would have been in no great hun*y to reach 
her deckt for no one is excased at coaling ship and we were 
tfaetefore snre to lose. oar morning's nap on the bare berth 
cteek before nkie o'eAoek quarters. We get our hammocks 
only by special order and tov the forenoon only. We often 
drop asleep sUting in the boat heading our oars at a level in 
locating silently down stream, though with open ears to act 
at Mr. Gill's ocder in guarded tones. Most of my notes are 
written while we are floating idly down. Our army is giving 
the rebels in the fort no-rest, keeping up an incessant fire by 
day and night. They say the torpedo game is played upon 
them also, the torpedo shells being found all along the front 
of their line in great number. After all her labor in getting 
over the bar the poor Octorora is still in trouble. She is fast 
aground and ail her heavy battery has to come off her again. 
A southerly gale will float her, but it seems to us as if these 
ierce northers would never cease. They have driven so much 



TOEPEDO DRA6GWO. tTOX A1WT1|ES 8HIF STKK. 51 

of t^ water dowB over the hmr tiuit tbe few iadieii to ep«rt 
ander her boHoan is ledaeed to a ainiia qoao^l j. R^iigces 
f ron iBbeldom chaise as whh faaTnig brooght our nortbeni 
weatker with na to apfum tlien. 

S^mdmy, Apr. S^ 1866. Laat iiigbl we dtafgcd aU Bigkt 
witiiOQt getting a^ytluDg, thoiq;h oor other boata got two 
before we arrived, wlucb was at dark. Our boat was aeot 
i» tbe afteraooB to carry cots for tbe weq a d ed asea of tlie 
M^Mpk (tiii-e)ad No. 48,) wbieh was Mtmk bj a torpedo 
wiile lyteg at aaebor ia tbe midtft ol our ieet tbat had goUea 
oTer tbe bar. Tbe water ezteada half waj abore bar kyiMr 
oeeft. 

Jfonday, jlpr. 3i We were aglKHi dragg^ag the whole of 
^ aitfhi aad were attowed oor baaanoeha aM thia fo t e ao oa . 
Sojm ds a fei t eis froocr tbe Morgan saj tiw rebels aaahanrTtag 
mway ftil their eottoe aad stores from Mobile aadthtek they 
intend to evaeaate soon. Our moDUois sHU He at ssMhof 
a mtie abore tbe bar with their rakea down to ealeh aay of 
the lofpedos that msy eoaae down ofoo Ibea^ hi the After^ 
noon we had to go after dK rtote*seow of ttie JRheonihss 
which had broken adrift. IFe had a loofh exhaaaSag pnll 
against th^ wind and current^ and were given onr hoMDoehs 
all night. 

Tuemlwf^ Apr. 4. We were in Ithe boat nMSl of tim day. 
Om onr n^m we found tliat a caU for twenty volnniatiw to 
man a mortar acow to sbeM Spaniah Fort had been nwris and 
filled. Granger aad bis whole gan's crew wofo the ones to 
be aceepted. Tbey will be Btati<Mied at the point we vialted 
jMur to Gen. Canby's beadqnarters one evening nnder Mr. 
I^leeper. 

fTedn^sdoy, Apr. 6. Last night we picked up a torpedo 
only 300 yards ahead of the OeUyrvra which baa no rake for 
|HBoiict&on. Tbe (kieioTa lies not far from iTo ^ on the 



52 liT Bormo ham. 

map, ancl Hhs torpedo had paaaed <^lear of tke line of tioato 
tliat irere dnifgiiig the chaRnd ffon the marsh to the bar. 
^9ooii after wei^eaefaed the abtp this mormiif tlw mortar-ieovr 
men went in her to their new qnartora. Thi«i relieves ii«i 
of boat duty for a thae onleea we are seat in another boat. 
Becanae of oor boat being awaj we lose oar morning's nap, 
told tlMit w« wtU get oar hammooks tonight. Thinking this 
a good time to have something done to relieve a nearly con- 
stant pain in my left ear whteh was getting aboat as bad as 
the right I vent to the doctor. He pot a blister befakid that 
ear and let me ran* Yesterday we commenced an immense 
met to be 1000 feet long, but to-day we see nothing of it. 
Instead, «t have a lot of empty beef barrels on deek which 
we are slinging for booys to the net when it is placeit across 
the ehannel at the foot of the mhrsh. 'We of the laonch are 
a ale a py set, e sp e ei ally as the others push in ahead of os on 
porpoae to relieve os of as much of the work'as possible, on 
aeeoont of oar all*nlght's 7ork. Our ship now lies at ^^M'" 
^a the ma|». The CindnnaH is anchored a little farther oat, 
■emr the l»uter edge of- the transports and is fitting a torpedo 
fohe to te leady to go op with the others after the net has. 
been ainlcfaed aoross the ohannel. 

Thursday J Apr. 6^ 1865. Last night we laid oar booys 
across Appaiaahe Channel at the lower edge of the marsh, a 
kt^ oeor MO feet wide at that point. 1 have another blis- 
ter behiaid aqr left ear to-day. All bands are preparing a 
net and aachow to lay to-n^ht. Mr. Sleeper went with os 
to oversee the work and at near midnight ehided Mr. Qili 
fdr bis load tones in giving ocd^v, saying that the rebels 
would hear him. Mr. 6. answered that he had to speak load 
to keep his boat's crew awake ; for they had been on doty 
since Tuesday morning without sleep. This was true so far 
an Mr. Sleeper's orders bad been obeyed, but during those 



9TA W A rAMAlBS VT TM MABSV. TBIRTT lOlim»0B. IS 



aeTCMly hMm every avsiiftMe op p o ilw ity for irtwilinf > wiy 
had tees vlflftaed to fte tallest estent. We kiMw Itelelttie 



Umi dsty pm spos ne wm s eeded ^ ead dU M eteerta^jr 
Uii we felt ttei me vest evtMed to eoMe elwp ds ilug 



day A^ltr m sll i^fbt test dstyasd stele It steMiy 
Ttere tee seevied to te eool Icilisg fctt wees <le Um iMn r ii 
eisee we ifoC oor nldsi^ *"nP^ <^ tessi Ite JWtfciyoii sad 
ipptersseee kidieste ttet we ere teiiig falitly UsrikMsted 
wHh esr oAeer* We ete#cd ttet we e osM dsfesd nsrii tl 
we were fleepy, thomii tte isritef swd tesMug turn istter 
tosgk ss »y WW faNsieis. 

JVMsp, Jpr. 7« if M. It Is elssdy wftb s mmt sortfi 
wisd $g^. We pit ttee^gh wiUi ear Iset sigWs wsrk st 
:) o'elqsk tkle sisrsisg ssd were sHowcd to He dows mi tte 
berth deek sstil hissfcfsit st eifte o'doek. To-dsjr we mte 
BMdilaf <ifSC->Bete %o esleli tot p e ds e with, lids will Mste^ 
hsidsr work for tte teste' etews* sad lese effrefive — If they 

HBS iSHSf WBHW IS WOWWHSS* 

iSslsideyf jt^r. 8. Some sf tteeiew sis st woHe siekliig 
dfs§*ssti. A psrfy is sshste cwttlsg asd tHsMsisg tieee 
siMNit twesty feet high to elste eat a ssfe eteaari op tte 
SMvsh. TO'Sight we staked sat s pseesgs ap tte awtah 
asd thea weal sa pkhet. While sa pieket Iset sight Mr. 
GW hit foar of tte twelire osis isst spesk by taras so thsl 
we elept elttisg OS oar thwsrts aesriy sae-third of tlie tisM 
sfter Biidafght. Thoee ttet weia drsggiag look over thirty 
torpedos f nm tte set we eet Thaisdsy night. There weia 
tweaty beets ragigid ia ttesnteh cteanel dariag tte sight; 
Tte Oelorara weat to Jnet helsw tte aet sad fireda a hotted 
aalole iato tte Water Battery to-day is hooor of tte taklsg 
of istea, acd aachored Ibeia to stay. I aai hsviag enother 
large teU cosiiag, this tlaM sa aiy instep. It eoaimenees 
to swell bs^ly asd it quite paiafol. A boneh on tte teek 



64 MY iKOTiK« uwn, 

; o( mj hand from the latl one ba» act goQ<) down yet. The 
hofB mm aeaiiy all in a similar state of eraptton, caused by 
Ike maaili waists we- have to wotk In, we think. We are all 
a|;iekiiig.to oiir seata^-thongh liadaon has to sit sidewtse — 
fiH* cmr w€ftk is gsttlag iiiteraatiog, feeUog siire that some- 
tbiag wUI bleak teeae whea the moattore come ap to the net, 
and we waat lo ba ia at the daatli. 

aUNDA F, APBIL ^ 1S66. At S A. M. oar boat was 
at the Uttle erosa opposite tha. Water Battery on the aiap on 
pafe W. We had baen wate|iiBg atsamevs ptlytng between 
Mobile and Spanish Fort, but could not make out wbicb way 
they ware carrying their loads. The army had been making 
repeated assauita dtiiiag the aight, evioced by the lines of 
infaairy fire creeping up the hiM. #uddea4y tlie iriag ceased 
and ahortly afterward* three Inrnfirea were seen to blaze out 
within the fort, their poattioas forming a triang^, at whieb 
Mr. Gill looked at his watoh and said '« Three o'clodr; the 
fort is ours, boys !'* The Water Battery was shoftiy after 
lighted up and rockets ware seat toward the middle of the 
channel lo Mobile. At tbia, three quick ilaahes as of fowder 
thrown apoa a fire at.Grea. Ganby*s headqnaters answered" 
the joyful signal. (A meairiber of the 124tb 111. Inf. Reg. 
dainied that they took the fort on the eveatag of the 9th by 
following along the beaoh at low tide ^^wMch was mxfaH^t 
that point," [ !] entering the fort from the side nest tp the 
town of Blaitely, and followiag the worits from the north to 
the east without aeeing anyone till they met some of another 
regiment coming ia like maaaar from the south by the east 
side, and that Gkn. Canby dkl not know the fort was taken 
till wakened to hear their report of Ha capture by them. ) 
TMs is the aabataoce of ina yam in the NeOiowd Tribune 
some years after, and doabtleas was as it appeared to him, 
iKit he will haTe to tdi it to the marinea as -the sailors of that 



THE FORT EVACTAtED. THE MOKITORS ADVANCE^ 55 

fleet can hardly befieve there conld be so great an exceee of 
tide at the head of Appalacbe Channel over that at the foot. 
Such a tide with ns would have ftaved labor and ehipe, and 
enabled the army to have walked into Mobile at once under 
our escort. The fioldiers on the south «ide certainly thought 
they were opposed by something more substantial than spirtt 
finng up to three o'clock this morning, and we saw the las^ 
steamer pass by loaded to the guards just as the rockets shot 
out after the i^treating foe. That part of the army fighting 
on the south side was not slow to find out that the fort was 
evaatated; nor was Gen. Canby unless our eyes deceived us 
regarding the powder flashes. He probably got less sleep 
during the seige up to that time than we of the Metcusnaefs 
launch. Their report coming while enjoying his well-earned 
slumber very likely confirmed his supposition or belief that 
the north side was evacuated first, hence those on the north 
side could walk in unmolested, while active work was going 
on upon the other side of the hill. What he saw and what 
we saw taken with what the army boys on the south side did 
completes a record of the night's events. We returned to 
the ship early with the news, and after quarters and inspection 
were over had our hammocks for all day and all night. 

Motiday^ Apr. 10^ 1665. We wei-e started out before 
breakfast and took up a line of seine set some time ago by 
the other picket boats above the monitors' anchorage, it 
took US trntil ten o'clock, when they all 8teame<l up to Just 
below the marsh net and anchored near the Octorora, On 
returning to the ship from taking up the net 1 went to the 
doctor with my foot and instep greatly swelied and blue hi 
color. He ordered me to He still and poaltiee with a cake 
of hardbread soaked in some medicated flotation he gave me. 
Kews came yesterday of the fall of Richmond. The New 
Oilcans Times quotes from New York papers that *' TIte 



56 MT S0TIK6 utn. 

War is Over." We hope 00, but do not see the work here 
quite done yet. 

Tuesday^ Apr, 11^ 1S65. The launch was airay all last 
night, going up Blakely River nearly to Round Battery in 
^Irftgging for torpedos. They got no torpedos but captured 
a rebel pidiet boat. I lost that much, but the boys want 
me back as the fellow sent in my place ^^ was a sneak or a 
coward,'' and as the swelling has gone down some, I shall 
take my place to-night. Yesterday afternoon the Morgan 
and another rebel lioat came out and took part with Batteries 
Gregg and Tracy in exchanging shots with our fleet and 
the captured Water Battery, but were so warmly received 
that they shortly after returned to Mobile. We now have 
only the two marsh 1>atteries, Gregg and Tracy to oppose 
our monitors going directly up to Mobile with the army by 
a passage cleared of torpedos. 

Wednesday^ Apr. 12* All our boats were on picket last 
night. Going up to Batteries Gregg and Tracy we found 
them being evacuated and rushed in to capture their crews. 
The MeiUMomeCs boats were among those to land at Tracy. 
Who took Battery Gregg I would not say, though we salkMrs 
always wpposed some of the boats of our fleet had that honor. 
We know that we run Bomebody out of Battery Tracy and 
do not believe it was any of our army. They got out in a 
hurry, leaving matches to a lot of shells which exploded a 
moment too aoon to seriously injure anyone. In the rush 
Mr. Gill's revolver went off, the ball going through his own' 
foot. Our officers were very blind when we came on board 
the ship this morning, and we have articles of spoils from 
that battery ranging from a dead hog to a barber's shaving 
chair and footstool with all its kit I got some rebel muster 
l^olls, descriptive lists, a musket and bayonet, a case of fine 
water cc^rs and a letter written upon a coarse, ruled paper. 



METACOM £T FIBSt TBE LA8T flSElX. MOBILE 013R8. 57 

to ker kusbtnd by a pladiy wife in Hoost^^a Co. , Ga. , where 
tbe^ «ihad to drink pood water; iiad tka ciille/' and otber 
trookke and privaliona, boi would not atll lite land to li\*eoD . 
Hy spoils were noon.siowed away, bvt wken the doctor came 
to k)ok at my foot it had become so swoMen again that I had 
to €<mfeaa my night's spree. He ordemd bis steward to lath 
meiamy hammock if I offered to stir without his permissioo. 
After breakfast wo got under weigh in company with the 
Cinckinati^ Sebaffo^ Sdota^ Itasca^ the tin-clads, tiie Com- 
modore's dispateh boat, Cren. Canby's boat, and a kit of 
transports. We all steamed over to the western shore and 
west to ^narters. We had left the Oct^mmx and the moni* 
tors at tbe foot of the marsh channel to gtmrd that passage, 
and a part of tbe amy were at Blakely and at tbe oaptnied 
batteiias« When tba doctor came below piepared for work 
I begged logo to my station, telling him I had only to see to 
oovittrteg the after hatches and then stand by the reHeving 
taeklea, lUso that I oonUn't possibly stay down there if it 
was to be an actfosu He at last ga%'e ine leave to go^ but 
chained me not to move aroond mudi. i foand a mesa of 
it aboot the gratings, my darkie assistant not knowing tbe 
proper plaoe for each quarter had gotten them mixed, mm! 
men were going, from the gnna toatralghten them out, wlille 
Mr. (Haeper stood at the edge of the hnrrieane deek waiting 
its being done to enable him to report the ship all ready for 
action. Jkm 1 hobbled along buckling my cntlass and pistol 
belt I deati ont the pisscii in a hurry to the men, then tM 
tarpauttna, and tooched my^eap first to Mr. Sleeper, then (o 
my ifiviabn oAeer, Mr. Gill, to whom 1 sboaU ha%'e reported. 
There wete broad grina oanmie faoea than theim as Mr. O. 
toaAed his e^> to conim my report and Mr. Sleeper tnrnett 
to Capt. Crosby to vq^ort tbe ahip ready tar action. Mr. 
Gill was ahK> Mmoprng ^KWt on one foot and a cane. The 



58 mr lOTaio urs. 

•top to the signal reporting tins was broken and we ^ere 
tirdered to fire.- CSvangar sent a shell iato the garden of a 
man named Feiffusm where Sand Battery had been, hot was 
not now, as it wa# already on the road to Mobile. A white 
doth was at onoe waved. (Mr. F. afterward showed ns a 
{rfeoe of that shell, saying that '' he didn't like that kind of 
gMden seed and thought he better show a white rag to tetns 
know he didn't want any more.") One of oar boats brought 
him off to the Commodore, then the army transports landed 
noma troops while we atesmed np oppose Mtssonri Battery. 
■A beat sent ashore here brought word back that Mobile was 
evacoated. We were then ordered to leave our side*aras at 
tmt ^pNurters and leave onr qoarters. Thus ends the block- 
.ade ftUd seige of Mobile. The negro that John Lee asid I 
saved from death wbile ooaltog off Galvesteai died laei sight 
of eonsamption. The doctor had tended i»iiitatthf«itf, tet 
the sadden shock of immersion in the dtiUy water wliea he 
was overheated by shoveling coal in the schooner's hold and 
the fright were too modi for him. A ooflin was made for 
Um this morning and he will be buried ashore in the Uvwy 
of his country. Going on dedc after dinner I found Ihi^ we 
were anchored about a mile below Missouri Battery, (at M* ) 
-and the tioopawere3aaGtag4Uid:4MEMinf to Aat point. At 
t P. M. we iqp aaebor i^ialn and weiA badk to our old poai* 
Htm on the east side of the b^. 

^anck^, 4fir. 16^1863. We hajre loirt a vessel a day by 
tsrpedos for the last thiee days. Friday l^e dispatch boat 
Mt ht a went under water, yealefday the tug lia wa^ sunk, 
mni to-day the guateaf sisakiL liaa lier iqpar deck just above 
water* She was emMiag f nam tfas west to the east aide of 
«to bay a little after 4 P. M.,nnd while skirtlag the shoal 
9^ the point nrntked '^Hdota X" on tN map struck tiie tiMr- 
pedo just beneath where the petty offioera' mess wtee eating 



FBOM GBEAt JOT TO GTtEA^SAPKEM. 59 

6upp€r. Five of them were killed. (When Old Vets, s^n 
their yarns from memory they are apt to get facts mixed, if 
not enlarged. In telKng of the sinkiBg of the Sdola I have 
alwayi thought 1 w^s correct in saying that aU of the petty 
offlTcers were killed except the ones on watch. I was some 
snrprised when patting my diary into type to find the reeord 
gave the number as flvt only. It wooid seem that my own 
yams — from memory — will sometimes have to be taken cum 
grano mils. It explains the honest discrepancies in stories 
told by those who kept no diary at the time of occarence of 
the incidents. I think my written copy will stand the test.) 
Sunday^ Apr. 23^ 1866. There has been little stirring to 
note during the past week. On Monday ve were trimmed 
with flags in honor of the surrender of Gen. Lee. We went 
to Pensacola that day for coal and stores. On Tuesday we 
coaled ship and took in provisions. Wednesday we returned 
to Mdbile Bay and anchored at our old position at M*, below 
Missouri Battery. Thursday the 1)oats were all oat dragging 
for toipedos, but found none. Friday we hoisted the launch 
upon' deck for repairs, nearly all her crew being already on 
the doctor's hands for the same purpose. On Saturday I 
^^discharged the doctor,'' that is to say, I asked to be let off 
the sick-list which then contained ten per cent of the ship's 
crew. In the afternoon I planed the launch's oars into good 
shape and got my foot quite sore and lame. At night I had 
an armed lookout or sentry duty for the first time in about a 
month, having had boat duty by night in the meantime. — 
We received the news of the assassination t>f the Pi'csident 
on Friday and we have worn our colors at half-mast, a sad 
contrast to our appearance on the passage to Pensacola last 
Monday. I understand that the rebels have sent in a flag of 
truce, asking what terms will be granted them in case they 
.surrender, and the answer was, the same terms granted Lee 



60 MY BOTIKG LirK. 

by Grant. The whole talk here noiria of '^Wheii tihall we 
get home?" In my letter of this date to my wife I write 
^^Tell Freddy pa has gotten the ^ rebels most all fighted.*" 

Fridiiify Apr. 28^ 1865. Word came thjat a rebel steamer 
had run past New Orleans to put to sea. We got under 
weigh and went down the bay expecting to go in chase. At 
Foil Morgan we found the Brooklyn had gone and we came 
to anchor. While we Uy here the supply steamer Bermuda 
eame in on her way from Galveston. All the men whose 
terms of ser\nce had expired were sent on board for passage 
north. This was disheartening to those of us left behind, 
as we took this as evidence that the time for this ship to l>e 
sent north was still distant. We have been giving the ship 
a great overhauling, both inside and outside, scraping and 
painting everywhere. We returned to Mobile to-day, and 
anchored at our former position M^ on the map. 

SHarda>y^ Apr. 29y 1865. To-day I was in the boat that 
is drawing the western channel for torpedo#« It was a wel* 
eome duty as it gave me a chance to see how we removed 
the line of piles obstructing the western chaune^ and how 
our sunken ships were raised. A tug was anchored a little 
distance above the piles, from which a boat carried chtirges 
of explosives and dropped them besiUe the piles, a wire con- 
necting them with a battery on the tug. When ready to fire 
the boat returned to the tug, the water about the piles boiled 
furiously and the piles shot upward, ^eli over on their sides 
lind floated down stream. We also sair the army boat St. 
Mory being raised by the ^ ^camels" used hei)B to float the 
large cotton shi^ over the bar. These camels are large, 
square, wooden tanks with one side hollowed in to fit against 
and partly under the side of a ship. They are brought to 
the whole length of each side of the siup, then flooded until 
barely afloat, faateaed securely to each other and the shipy 



* **I.01f'D TBET WEBB WBIPT, B1JT IVttB'M'T CONQUER'd." 61 

find tlbea pampf4 out by powerful sttBxn pumps, taking tile 
sbtp vitb tb*m m they «b^. The 8L Mary ui«ti inMi boil 
thftt I Am toU WM #of«eiiy ob t^lfew York nM M^wOif 
leans 8«eaBiboat Line* I» adMftui W this ship tke Aiwf 
baa toat l^ larpad^v 4lw dkpateli boat &m. MaitkB^ andtte 
starn^wbeei rhrer be«l IMcrtMtimGtim. Tbeaa tnaka a kna 
x)f thaw veaaefo far. the Mnsy^ mm aix for the '¥0fj by top^ 
peflk>a aitiac Maivh Mth. 

iSoMiTtlfi^, M&y 6^ 1€W. Yeateiday we bad $5^ ^^grog^ 
monay^' aerwd oat to imI^ $il of whkh went for my abava o# 
food aoppliea parchaaed of the supply boats to b€4f oel our 
regidar navy-faticm) iMth aeams to go not ^ far as usual. 
To^y oor watch rtceived 15 *a ttbeity money and w«ie aet 
aahore for far(y*tight hours of Hberty. I wanted to «ee tba 
earthwarka and the vegetation, but aoen found I wonU not 
be allowed onlaide the dty limlto. The eity itaelf waa bait 
of everything. A one-legged rebel ex*s(Mier atntnped abonl 
among the boya, bragging and offensively saying thai they 
* * 'low'd they 'd been wbipt, but they wem't eonqner'd f^/* 
The boys were sorely tempted to whip him until he, at least; 
waa ooa^nered into Mleace. 1 had to tell him thai we -did 
not wnnt to eonqner him ; we <»ily aet out to kaef bhn in tha 
Union and make hsm behave, — and that waa jnat what we had 
done, it shut htm up for the moment, appat^itiy nnaUe la 
gather hia wits for a retort, and the boys fMahod ban by m. 
shout of derision* He let them akme after that. On the 
wharf were a lot of guns froiu the 8elma araenal, with pika 
of loaded shdis and other war mateiial. Boys wens getting 
a aloek of powder, — ^perbaps to celebrate the coming Fourth 
of July with — the aentry taking little notiee whether they 
pwloined ix^jm tkne or purcussion shells. They seemed to 
know which were safe to handle, for they took from time»f uae 
shelki only. The monitors were lying in Alabama River, 



6i mr Bonva Lom. 

#ppo0ite the citjr. Tbe ScioUi h«d been rtiMd and was at 
Mm dljr bask of the river tad betag repeirod. The new 
ylanMag ehpire thai abotti ilftoea feeCaqvaee oTher aide had 
bees oraahid ia. There wae Itttte elae to mtereat lae in the 
eity. I aieii knew thai <nileea I retttmed ta the ahap by the 
mmt boai we eave on 1 wowld hare to watt till to-aKMTow. 
I letnraei to the ahip dia|pnalwd» aad reported lor duty. 

Tue9day^ Mmy 9, 1865. To-dmy we reeelred l^o a^n 
who had been eent hoaM froa the Paeifie with elill aeveral 
nMMUha to nenre. Seireral not needed to fill onr ^oia will 
hd aant lo other voaeeb. 

Tkmraimy^ Jf cy SJ. We were anddepiy^ahaken op by aa 
ezpleoion of great force at Mohtle. The warehouae hoMinjic 
the atorea of war material taken from the rebela waa Mown 
ap, daiag a.greai amoaat of damage to the city and ahippiag. 
Thoogh seven miles distant onr ahtp was ahakea as if struck 
lieaYily. It waa eridently the work of some rebel. 

IWndof , JwM 13. Word was paseed to-day for those 
wiioae tiaw of serriee had expired to go aft. They were 
toM they ooaU liaine their discharge here or wait a few days 
and be seat home by tlie first boat going north, alao that a 
transport wonhi be going every few days. I pat in an ap- 
plication far my diaehargi on the ground that aa the rebeUk>n 
is cmabed my s erri e es are no longer needed, and that being 
a farmer and not a sailor by profession my aerviee in the 
aihry has been, and mnst necessarily continue to be at great 
fiecnaiatfy sacriftOB to me, and hardahif i to my family, I am 
aot at aM eanident of a favorable result, though the doctor 
ia hsHilMi| in my application was heard to aay that I was 
foaNy nnfil for service through increasing trouble with my 
ears. 1 cannot get an answer before July 4, and ehouki I get 
my dinebaige 1 will have due me littk mor6 than enoogh to 
liear my expenses home. Should I draw nothing more i will 



PKOMOTED TO CAVTAIX OV THE BOLD. M. 

hare t24«i^0.of wagei due me and t4.60 of grog money, or 
abOQt $29. AU I shall have gained will be the aatiafaeiKm 
of having served my country in her time of need. 

Thur$day, June 23, 1865. Mr. Sleeper aent for me and 
aaked me several questions which 1 give ae I nnderalood at 
the time of utterance. It will be borne in mind that I had 
on for pants the parts of two pairs pieced together and with 
a hole already breaking through at one knee. It will show 
the state of my hearing. He asked me : — **Can yon keep a 
hole sewed up?" ^' Yes, sir," I said, looking at my holey 
knee and inadvertently placing my hand over the spot, being 
at the time stooping to hear htm better as he aatbaek in his 
chair. The Paymaster and another oflSeef present laughed, 
the former saying, ^^He doesn't understand yon." ^^Can 
yoa keep a ship's hose sewed up?" came next. **I cannot 
say, Sir. I am neither a shoemaker nor sailmaker." They 
all laughed and 1 looked extremely foolish. ^^ What did yon 
think 1 said ?" I told him, and they had another long laugh. 
'' What kindxof a Captain.o'.the*Hoki wonld you make?— I 
am talking of a ship's hokl — h*o-l*d — and neither holes nor 
hose«" ^*I couldn't promise to be very expert, Sir, as I 
have never served in that capacity." ^* Can yon fr>t-o*w 
things so that you can find them again?" ^^Yes, sir." — 
^^Can you find a thing in the dark that you stowed away ?^ 
^* I think I could. Sir." ^^Could you keep everybody ont of 
the hold?" ''Yes, Sir, if 1 had sole charge." ''That is 
sttfiScient." When 1 knew what he was talking about I conld 
manage very well, bnt the expectation of a reprimand for 
a hde in my trousers led my understanding astray. 

Friday, June 24. This morning the Boatswain toM me 
he had orders to show me the stowage of the hold and put 
me in chaige. I spent tlie remainder of the day in Waning 
out rubbish, ccrnblnng, and whitewashing. I was messed 



<M ITT aOTOlO UVB. 

•ad mstend with the petty offleen. I imft felt grmtiied to 
kttov that not a aum on boerd h«t expreeeee htmeelf m pfM 
thmt I have the proowtaoii. My pay te |25 a nooihv aad I 
hame ao daty exoept to tahe cala of the bold. I have no 
watoh at night, being what le caHed an '« idler." If y atatton 
M quaiteia hi in the aheU-room to hook on ahell aa needed, 
aad ia oaee of ife to atand by the stop-ooek for flooding the 
forward magaaiae whea ordered. Evidently I need not ex- 
pect my diaehaige till tiie ahip goes home. 

17. S. 8. MeUMMmet, Philadelphia, Pd., Aug. 16, 1865.— 
After a k>ag iraiting die order came for ne to aail for this 
^KHt, aad we are here. The hold is empty, clean, and as 
sweet aa a thidi coat of whitewash can make it. Inspection 
ia over and we are now receiving a fortnight's f nrioogh, with 
the privilege of selecting the Boston, New York, or Phila- 
delphia Station aa the place for reporting at the end of that 
time — ^^thoee of you who retaru^thoM of you who acruaa ! " 
as Capt. Crosby expressed it with an emphatic repetition. 
This waa naderstood to mean that Uncle Sam will not cry 
or hunt for you shonkl you not return. Few understood it 
in its meanness, tempting these men to commit the crime of 
desertion that the country which they had defended at the 
risk of their lives might take advantage of their action to 
avoid paymeat for services already rendered, aad to prevent 
all daima for unpaid iiiatallments of bounty, or pensions for 
tajuries received while ia the service. 
. Hmcul, Ifoat., Aug 17. Home at last, all the way from 
Philadelphia by rail. At Plawtueket Bridge 1 called at Car- 
ter's Store aad asked if there was any one going my way that 
I oould get a ride home with. Mr. Carter aaid, ^^ Your wife 
ia ia town,** and lookii^ acroas the street added, ^^ There's 
your ride at Butler's now/* I went over and found my wife 
telliag Mr. Butler that she expected me home any day. On 



AT HOME ON FI3RLOUGB. THE OLD OHIO AOAIN. 65 

turning to go out «be exclaimed, ^'Oh! Joe!" and was ia 
my arms inBtantly. How we enjoyed that ride home ! At 
home Sidney climbed upon one knee, Bell upon the other, 
and little Freddie was almost heartbroken when I told him to 
^^ Wait a minute ;'' but when I pot my head down between 
the others and told him to put his arms around my neek his 
countenance underwent a great change as he feond he was 
the closest to me. Such a hog he gave me ! A haf^y day 
to all of us. 



CHAPTER II 



IN THB HAVT AFTER THE WAR WAS OVER. 



U. S. Receiving Ship Ohio^ Charlestoum Navy Yard^ 
Thursday Aug. 31, 1865. I arrived on board the Ohio 
from my furlough this afternoon and had some difltoilty in 
being accepted as the individual desciibed, and the derk 
seemed determined to read ^^C. H." as coal-heaver in place 
of Capt.-o'>the-Hold. Mr. Gill, my old officer in the launch 
passed by JQst then, and bis hearty shake of the hand satis- 
fied the clerk. Out of about twenty who were to report at 
this.station only five do so, all petty officers :-John Powers, 
Boatswain's Mate; John O* Brien, Paymaster's Steward; 
Ge<N*ge H. Gabriel, Surgeon's Steward and Nurse; John 
Hnd£on, Cooper and launch-mate ; and myself. There are 



66 Mr SOYING LIVE. 

three or four vessels here fitting oat for foreign stations, and 
we who have two years to serve cannot expect to remain here 
very long. On the way from home I called on Gov. Andrew 
at the State Honse. After asking me a few qoestions he 
endorsed m^ wife's application for my discharge and I put 
it in the mail before reporting on board. I doubt if my first 
application was forwarded to Washington from Mobile. 

Wedmesday^ Sept, 27 ^ 1866. 1 was not surprised to get 
a letter from my wife saying that the answer to her applica- 
tion was :-^^As many men have been discharged as the wants 
pf the Service will permit." 

Wednesday y Njv, 1, I am drafted to start to-morrow 
afternoon for the Princeton, the Receiving Ship at Philadel- 
phia. There are two-hundred of all grades in the draft. 



On board t/l 8. 8. Ticonderoja, PJiilidelphia, Pa., — 
Saturday y Nov. 11. We were sent on board this ship in 
the afternoon and were stationed at once. I was named as 
Main-mast-inan, port watch, having with one other man the 
charge of the rigging about the mainmast, to see to leading 
out all ropes whenever orders are given to haul upon them, 
to ooil them up afterward, and to keep everything about the 
uiast neat and always clear for running. It is a desirable 
station, bat requires a man able to hear well. The gang of 
shore carpenters were smoothing down the quarter deck with 
adzes and 1 borrowed a plane of them to smooth the space 
about the mast that would belong to my mate and myself td 
keep clean. Our Executive Officer, Lt. Commander AUyn, 
(now deceased) watched me to see what I was going to do 
with it. He let me work and seemed pleased that I did it. 

Wednesday, Nov. 15. We straightened things out gen- 
erally on Monday and bent sails yesterday. The decks were 



^^^> 



VV\ 



\ 






THE TICOKDEROGA. MY EARfi EXA3IINED. 67 

holyetoned this morning for the foui*th consecutive day in 
order to get them smooth. In the afternoon the officers gave 
a grand ball on bf^ard. It is nimored that we sail for the 
Meditterranean in a few days. The Tic<ytideroga is a bark- 
rigged propeller, carrying two Xl-incb (200-pdr) shell gans 
on pivots, two IX-inch (100-pdr) shell guns in broadside, 
two 60-pdr lifles forward in broadside, with two 24-pdr and 
two 12-pdr brass boat-guns mounted on caiTonade slides in 
the waist, which we use for saluting. During the war she 
carried a Vl-inch (100-pdr) rifle on the top-gallant- forecas- 
tle, her broadside battery was ten IX-inch shell guns, and the 
two Xl-inch pivot shell guns that could be fire<l from either 
side. Being long and narrow, with a draft of but 1 6 feet, 
her war battery was rather more than Government cared to 
risk on her upon a cruise across the Atlantic. She had rolled 
so heavily while off Charleston, S. C. that ten feet had been 
taken from her lower-masts, hoping thut with the reduction 
also in the weight of her battery she might become more 
seaworthy, and withal more comfortable in a seaway. 

Monday^ Nov. 20^ 1865. We unmoored and steamed 
down to Foit Mifflin and took in ammunition, then continued 
down to the Breakwater and anchored. I drew $20 of my 
pay and sent it home in a letter. (It never arrived.) L 
also made over half-pay to my wife, to commence on Jan. 
1 , 1866, for one year.* On the way down I went to the Sur- 
geons for help from increasing deafness. Dr Gunnell, the 
Chief Surgeon gave both ears the first examination they had 
received since the injury occuri'ed over fourteen months ago. 
After syringing them out carefully and thoroughly he exam- 
ined them through an instrament sending in a beam of light 
by one tube while he looked through another. He found the 
scar upon the drum of the right ear and told me that the use 
of that one was destroyed, but he hoped to save the other^ 



69 mr ROVING live. 

which probably had its auditory nerve affected throagh syni' 
pathy. The drum of the right ear appeared to hav^ been 
ruptured. 

Saturday^ Nov. 25^ 1865. We got up our ancohr and 
went to sea at 6* A. M. The weather is very fine and we 
hope for a pleasant passage. We have a very pleasant set 
of otBeerf), and the men seem disposed to keep them so by 
cheerful and prompt obedience. 

Sunday J Nov. 26. The fine breeze of yesterday has in- 
creased to a fresh gale and the ship rolls heavily, keeping the 
deck full of water and dispelling our pleasant anticipations. 

Monday^ Nov. 27. Still blowing heavily, with the sea 
breaking over us continually. The ship rolls her hammock 
nettings under at every heavy surge. 

Tuesday, Nov. 28. Last night was very stormy indeed. 
The hatches were battened down and every sea plunged over 
the bow and formed a cascade falling f ix>m the top-gallant- 
forecaslle upon the spar deck, keeping it half knee deep in 
water. 

Wednesday y Nov. 29. Before the sea could subside from 
the last gale another set in from a different direction, and we 
are having a distressingly unsteady sea. Rolling tackles 
and extra lashings are everywhere. Last night the other 
watch in shifting the main topsail let one of the reef-tackles 
get foul in bending the new topsaiU When we came on 
watch we were ordered to set the sail with a close reef. The 
men could make no impression at hauling out that reef tackle. 
1 was looking aloft trying to make out where it was foul and 
did not hear Ensign Wadleigh call me as mainmastman till 
he called me by my name. When I told him 1 thought it 
had a turn around certain other ropes be ordered me to lay 
aloft and clear it, which I did very quickly. To-day Mr. 
Allyn told me he would have to change my station from the 



013TWARD BOUND. *'ALL HAKDS SAVE SHIP!" €9 

mainxDast and pat roe in the fore top where I could follow 
the motions of otJiers when I did not nnderstand an order, 
adding that the change waa not made for any fault of mine, 
but solely on account of my defective hearing. 

Thursday ^ Nov. 30^ 1665. Still blowing as fiercely an 
ever, and we are rolling and tumbling about worse than we 
have been at any time before. At 5 A. M. the truss bands 
to the lower yards commenced to work loose and irere taking 
chips out of the lowermasts at every roll. The foresail was 
set and the teeth on the inner face of that band of iron took 
chips three-quarters inch thick and five inches long out of 
the mast. It was my watch below, but lying close to the 
hatchway and awake I heard Mr. Allyn order the boatswain's 
mate to call ^^All hands save ship!" I threw on my pants 
and was on deck almost before the call was uttered. As I 
reached the deck 3Ir. Allyn caught me by the shoulder and 
shouted in my ear, ^^Port watch furl the foresail!" The 
order answered for others as well as myself, for the ladders 
were full of men as eager to respond as I, and we lay aloft 
as fast as we could, the gale pinning us to the shrouds one 
moment, and the roll of the ship toward us forcing us to 
hang by the rigging till the upward roll gave us momentum 
and tautened the shrouds so that we could mount again. 
We had hardly i*eached our places on the yard before a cry 
was raised that the mast was going, and we were ordei'ed to 
lay down from aloft. Th<ise of us already on the yard found 
this not so easy to do. Being first on the yard I had laid 
out to the yard arm and, not hearing the order, passed the 
leach of the sail in to the next man for furling. Those not 
ali*eady on the yard obeyed the order to lay down with greater 
alacrity than they had mounted the rigging ; (such are to be 
found in nearly every crowd) but the passing of the leach to 
the next man was continued to the bunt of the sail, and we 



70 MX ROVING LIPfi. 

got it furled before attempting to leave the yaid. Finding 
the mast still stood^ though the yard surged fearfully, the 
men who went down were ordered aloft again, and once on 
the yard worked with a will and we saved both the sail and 
mast. At the yard arms it seemed as if the waves would 
reach us at nearly every heavy roll. There were some quite 
narrow escapes from being Jammed between the yard and 
shrouds in attempting to leave the yard after the sail was 
furled. I lost my foothold at my attempt, but a sailor 1:$ 
always safe if he has a hand hold, and as the ship rolled the 
other way my feet caught the rigging and I was all right. 
Finding the carpenter's gang at the cat-har-pins trying to 
catch the nuts of the binding bolts to the truss were short a 
hand to handle a monkey wrench 1 remained aloft to help. 
We were two hours aloft before it was secured. I got one 
of the chips which had to be picked out at the risk of fingers 
Ixifore taming the nut, and this work had to be done while the 
yani was at rest pres«(ed against the lower rigging at either 
side. Although with bare head and feet I did not suffer, 
for the weather had become quite warm. The men of our 
watch were mustered after the sail was secured to see if there 
had been any skulkers in the watch. As I failed to answer 
to my name Mr. Allyn ordered a search for me, sa3ing that 
I was the first one on deck and aloft. No one had seen me 
come down from aloft and they began to think I had gone 
overboard. At the call of my name by the boatswain's mate 
the Carpenter answered for me that I was aloft helping him, 
and all l)ecame serene. Tliey had experienced some of the 
delightti of having a deaf mab on board to be bothered with. 
We were at work all day getting rolUng tackles, extra lash- 
ings, preventer stays and backstays everywhere, especially 
wherever anything depended upon the strength of iron abont 
the rigging. The gale abated somewhat in the afternoon. 



MORE GALES. 6ECUHE EYKRYTBIK6 AND START STEAM. 71 

A few boars more of such weather woald very likely have 
proved fatef ol to some of our big goos. We would sooner 
lose our masts than these pets, for we want to show them to 
our cousins across the water. It is said they have nothing 
to equal them over there. 

Friday^ Dec. i, 1S65. Another gale is buffetiog us about 
at its own pleasure. Department orders were not to use the 
propeller over forty-eight hours after leaving port, except in 
case of emergency. Cs pt . Steadman decides that emergency 
compels us to start steam to prevent the ship becoming a 
wreck. Everything alow and aloft is made as secure as is 
possible by the expenditure of rope for lashings and we take 
things easy, let the seas pounce in upon us, shake ourselves 
and try to laugh with our mates at our duckings, but finish 
with a sullen grin and a wish that the designer of this ship 
'^ had died before he was born," or that the ship had rolled 
the sticks out of her off Charleston, and her bottom also. 

Saturday^ Dec. 2. The weather was fine in the morning, 
but the afternoon finds us plunging into the seas and taking 
in water over the hammock nettings after the usual style. 
The men aver we are aboard the Flyivg Dutchman. We 
have had no sail set for the past two days. The carpenters 
find they can do nothing to secure our lower yards until we 
arrive in port and have a steady ship so that the trusses will 
not grind the mast as fast as they compress them. Boat- 
swain Briscoe and his mates are trying with rope lashings 
and tackles to secufe the yards so that we may be able to set 
the sails again ^^whenever we are favored with a calm,'' as 
he expresses himself. 

Sunday y Dec. 3. Our lower yards are secured so we can 
set the topsails and we are trying them. To-day is pleasant, 
though somewhat cloudy. 

Monday, Dec. 4. The wind rises with the sun, and the 



72 MT ROVING LirR. 

sea is at its old game of vaulting in npon us from ettber bow 
or gangway. Our decks are never dry. 

Tuesday^ Dec, 5, 1866. Liast night while under reefed 
topsails an eye of the parral to the fore topsail yard broke, 
letting the yanl sway away from the mast and from side to 
side, the broken ends of the jaws of the yard striking the 
mast at eaeh roll of the ship accompanied by an uplift of the 
bow as if determined to shorten our masts to accord with the 
breadth of beam. Another substitution of rope in place of 
iron was in order. The gale abated in the afternoon. 

Wednesday^ Dec. 6. 1 am forty years old to-day. I am 
counted an old man among sailors, but they admit that I am 
as spry as the youngest and can stand as much hardship as 
the most rugged of them. The weather is quite moderate 
and the ship moves along under sail very demurely. 

Thursday^ Dec. 7. A stiff fair breeze is blowing and 
we are making good progress toward our port, heading for 
Fayai, in the Azores. 

Friday^ Dec. 8. Being at masthead lookout this morning 
I had a fine view of the Island as we approaclied it under 
steam and sail, favored with a fair and gentie breeze. On 
rounding a promontory upon the southerly side of the island 
we opened the bay and town of Fayal. Opposite to it and 
protecting the bay is Paica Pica, a lofty cone, rising with 
quite regular sides to above the clouds. The ship fired the 
usual salute while I was aloft. 

Sunday J Dec. 10. We are coaling ship in the rain< We 
took in sixty tons before noon. The coal is dusty and all 
wore sufficiently blackened faces and hands to take parts in 
a negro minstrel show. Even after that sailor's luxury^ a 
fresh-water-wash, streaks of black showed under the eyes 
and on the edges of the eyelids, giving us a comical appear- 
ance at evening muster. We were black-streaked but were 



FATAL. SAIL AGAIN. ^^ALL HANDS BURY THE DEAD !'* 78 

none of us bhu^'^llsted. That would not iiave amounted to 
anything as all were in the (tome predieainent. In fact one 
not having that coantersign woold have been called upon to 
explain his whereabouts during coaling. 

Monday^ Dec. 11, 1863. We conuneneed coaling again 
as soon as the lighter came off, which was not till 10 o'clock. 
We took in fifteen tons and then cleaned ship. It m sUU 
rainy. Hy deafness is very troublesome in such weather. 
To-day Midshipman DeLong (of Arctic fame and death) 
was mustering the men at coaling by the watch numbers, at 
the same time continuing the work. As I did not answer to 
my number Peter Wood, the Capt.-o'-the-top pointed to me 
where I was at work, and ^^All right, he's deaf," was Mr. 
DeLong's response. The doctors still drop a mixture into 
ray ear three times daily. Lately they make no examination 
in the morning, simply order the mixture continued. 

Wednesday, Dec. 13. We have made what repairs we 
could here and to-day set sail for Lisbon at 6 P. M., going 
out by the eastern passage >)etween Paica Pica and the Island 
of St. George. It made a very pleasant view. 

Thursday, Dee. 14. The iM-eeze increases to a gale and 
we are under close reefed topsails and storm staysail. 

Saturday, Dec. 16. The wind and sea have been very 

« 

high the past two days. Our two lifebuoys were wrenched 
from their lashings and lost last night. 

Sunday, Dec. 17. ''''AU Hands Bury the DeadP^ was 
the call of the boatswain and his mates this noon. Our 
Surgeon's Steward, named Mellen, an Assistant Surgeon 
during the war, was found dead in his hammock this morn- 
ing and we are called to perform the last rites over his body 
as we commit it to the deep. The sea ran very high, and as 
the grating was tipped at the stroke of ^^eight bells'* for the 
body to be launched from the gangway a huge wave met and 



74 MT BOnVO LIFS. 

like ft rmimioat shaik -swsUowed it before our ejes. The 
poor BMui b wid lo tere been disappointed in his betiotiied, 
^Aio MflnWI SBOllRir vwn wtiile he wms st the f root, and he 
tried to drown Ms dcMippointment in drink. It is said that 
onr Ittipww IssIl iwly-on him and got him this saboidinate 
position, hoping4>y the means to wean him from his ftiabit 
and liis sorrov. It proved a rain attempt, as an inspection 
^4ha Dispensary stores showed that he had drank the wine 
$nd wItcMij and had tnren used lai^ quantities of morphine. 
Home i>f ottr men tiad:8er\'ed in the same ship under his care, 
and their inrariable eostom of addressing him by his former 
title of ''E^ootor"' or «'M r." was followed by all of the men. 
They h«f Isnown him as always cheerful and taking good 
care of them and they endeavored to show Iheir continued 
respesit — ilksii aympathy withoat intruding upon his evi- 
dent sadness. 

irsdneMfaiyt Ak. 90, 1865. This is our third day of fine 
weather and fair wind. The ship has been under full canvass 
most of the time and the deck continoally wet. 

Thursday J Dec. 81^ 1965. It has been squally and rainy 
aM day, ws shltn>ii|g seas continually. We are trying the 
ship at beati^ against a heavy head wind and do not find 
her a fancy si^lboat. Harrowing of the beam for swiftness 
under steam destroys a ship's power under sail in a great 
measure. Either the one or the other must naturally be 
auxiliary until an effective mean has been discovered. A 
cnilser In wmr most have aail power to enable her to keep at 
sea for an indefinite period and not be compelled to enter a- 
friendly port for coal, yet still have sufifeient steam power to 
overhaul or evade an enemy. For the defense of onr coast 
steam may predominate even to the exdusion of sail wholly, 
hut even then a breadth of beam is necessary to enable the 
sliip to carry her battery in safety. In this respect most of 



**UGBT, BOr* AKCHOB AT LISBOK. 75 

oar ships dengned for nee on our eoMt dtirii^ the rebellion 
were eztreaiely fftoliy. On board thk ship we have hardly 
dared cast loose oor guns at sea in the beet of we ather frcMi 
fear Itet the pivot gans, at least, would get beyottd oontnot 
and phinge overboard. They were powerlnl to look at, bat 
wonld have literally *^left us in the lareh** of the shim and 
in the first lureh at that, we sailors believed. 

Friday, Ihc. M, 1866. The wind is high and the sea is 
roagb. I had the lookout forward In the last dog watoh, and 
while, the rest were aloft farling the foresail I had the^teoce 
to report the firHt light on the European eoaat. We weve 
aboot a handred miles away from our proper«triking point. 
All sails were f nrled and steam started on a sottth eoonie. 

Saturday, Dec. 23. At 2 P. M. we arrived off the bar at 
the month* of the Tagus, thirty miles below Lisbon, and hove 
to for a pilot. 

Sunday, Dec. 24. No pilot came <^ yesterday and Ciipt. 
Steadnian oonelnded to stand in without one. Jost in season 
to claim bis fees a man claiming to be «a |>tlo<a eame off to 
us and we moored ship at Lisbon at 1 P. M. We foniid no 
Admiral Farragut, nor any American man*o**war in p^rt. 

Mfmday, Dee. 26. We saluted the Portugese flag with 
twenty-one guns, also gave one of thirteen to an ofileial. 

Saturday, Dee. SO. We have been busy repairing ship 
sinee our arrival and today have been painting. It w one 
of their holidays and we have helped them celebrate by our 
hoisting the American ensign at the fore and mizien masts 
with the P<Htugese flag at the main, and by firing salutes at 
noon and sunset. 1 went to the doctor again yesterday on 
account of my left ear, telling bim it not only pained me 
and throbbed more than usual but was quite sore externally. 
He t<M me that the auditory nerve was diseased and that 
there wa6 no help for me ; that he was very sorry for me 



76 MX ttOTivo tint. 

and would do what he ooald to alleviate the paio, wUch waa 
all he eottid poeaiUy do, and that I oonU not expect to hear 
aaj better. We have had t2 in Amerlean fold eerved oat 
to oe horn our grog money ecoount. Our meee pat in $1 425 
of thie lor a New Year'«» dinner. Of ooncM I followed euit 
though knowing I ooald get moch more gratiioatioa oat of 
the ten poande of igs I bougie fcNr 26 eeote of oar mooej, 
a hantfol of whieh i allow myself after each meal for olher 
reeeone heuMe the pleaeare of eating them. 

JfbMlay, Jan. 1^ 1866. We have been eakiUng the old 
fear ool for the paet two days and hare oommenoed'aalottng 
Hw new year in, ealnting twice daily. I hope we will get 
through soon ae I am one of those detailed as ealatiag gone' 
erew« We find It a continual bother. 

XWiday, «/an. 2. The Armorer has epotled me aa a good 
hand to blow and strike for him. I have been st that work 
two daya now — when.not ealnting. We are repairing the 
tton-woffk broken during the gale. Jf the ship keeps op her 
vidoos haUt of breaking things 1 may have added that trade 
to my list of acoompllshmeiits before I reach home. 

Swniiafg^ Jan. 7. We np anchor to go to sea to-day, but 
the engine bioke down as soon as we started it and we had 
to anebor afain. 

Tuesday, Jan. 9. We made another attempt to gel to 
sea and soooseded, though the engine broke down at a most 
critical point, only a quarter-mile from the reef )ost outilde 
the moolh of the river, with the swell setting as on. We got 
sail npon her in season to avoid it and stood oat to sea. I 
have been in charge of the hold four days while the captain 
of the hoU IS sick. 

TluTMiiry, Jan. 11. We passed Gibraltar with studding 
sails set and a very light breeze. I signed accounts with 
$60.20 due me up to Dec. 81, Just 17 cents more than when 



ACTING CAPTAlK-0*-TB<-HOLD. 77 

I came on board this ship, though I have drawn $20 of m j 
pay at Fort M iiBin to send home. 

Friday^ Jan. 12, 1866. It b^ns to bieese np with the 
wind ahead, so ^lat we are beaUng- to windward along the 
southern coast of Spain within sight and feeling of Grenada^s 
snowy peaks. Onr engine broke down Jnst abreast of the 
entrance to Gibraltar, but onr captain did not stop for any 
repairs. 

Sunday, Jan. 14. We are beating under double-reefed 
topsails, foresail, main-trysail and fore-top-mast-staysail, 
sitting the same pei^s ahead as we near tlie Spanish coast, 
evidently gaining nothing on our course. It is cold and I 
am half seaside from being in the hold most of the time. I 
have been in the hold for the past nine days doing the work 
of the capt.-o*-the-hold, who is on the sick list with a badly 
swelled arm from a boil. At 8 P. M. the gale had broken, 
the wind going down rapidly though still dead ahead. The 
ship has been making water faster than the hand pumps can 
dispose of it readily, and as the engine is now in order the 
steam was started to pump and to push the ship ahead on 
her course with all sail furled. 

Monday, Jan. IB. A light, warm breese sprang up from 
the west at 9 A, M. and all hands were called to make sail. 
All the square-sails and port studding-sails were set. Soon 
after noon the wind had hauled to the northward enough to 
let the fore-and-aft sails draw, and they were set, but at 6 
P. M. it was calm again, with all sail furled and steam was 
pushing us ahead at a grand rate. This morning we were 
540 miles from Nice and Yille Franche, the latter being 
our port. 

Twi9day, Jan. 16. A cold breese from the north is so 
nearly ahead that our fore-and-aft sails would not fill on our 
course. We had general exerdse at quarters, as has been 



78 MT BOVIMO UFE. 

the practice siiioe leftving Lwboii« • We bad not been exer- 
dsed on the trip acroa^ from fear of losing oar guna^ but 
beii^ all ctd handa they fhid we know what to do every ttirie. 
At 10 A. M.^ wfaUa at qoarteia, we paaaed the laland of 
Majorea, 340 mdes from onr port. We paaaed Minorca at 
aondown, only a few miles distant to the east of ns. In the 
old days Port Mahon, in the soatheast comer of this laland^ 
ased to be a favorite resort and a naval station for American 
oienH»'-war. 

HWn^adof , Jan. 17^ 1866. A gale commenced with a 
sqoall at 9 A. M. All hands had }uat been called to clean 
alnf 9 we expecting to reach port early tomorrow morning. 
The decka had Jnat tieen wet and sanded to be holystoned, 
when a barrel of coal-tar brr»ke adnft from its lashings and 
after atavtag its own head in against one of the guns took 
npon itsetf the taak of * ^cleaning ship'* in its own pecnliar 
style. It was todended to be used for painting the andiors, 
cablea, and other iron-work ; but it seemed disposed to run 
amndc aati (»aint every thing except the anchors and caUe. 
The white bahrarks and all the ronning rigging coiled about 
the foremast and fore rigging received a generous applica- 
tion. The problem with each man was how to arreat the 
barrel withoot himself getting tarred and barreled. Some 
of it spfawhed over the coping of the fore hatch, which is 
aome three feel high, and for a time it waa feared it might 
reach the galley irea. Hose were laid to pot out the fires in 
caae il rea c h ed daagero«sly near tatbem. Some came into 
the hold, bot I aoon stopped that by pntting on the hatohes 
till the berth dock cooks got the fore hatch covered with itd> 
gi*attngs and tarpaulins. The barrel was easily captured 
after the tar had ma out ; then all the squilgses in the ship 
were need to prevent the staff reaching the quarter dedc and 
to force it into the scuppers and overboard. In the bold we 



ACTIKO SBIP'S COOK. 79 

were not idle. Barrels aod boxes broke adrift repeatedly in 
spite of oar conslaiit watchf olness. Planks stowed in a rack 
overhead i^iot ont qpitef oily and dangeronslj near onr heads 
as we were shoving their neighbors into place. The captain* 
o'-the-h<M was so much better that he could help me consid- 
erably. When Ihr. Hyde took him to task for his exertion 
during the meke, he said :-^^ I thoogbt it was an emergency 
requiring the use of my steam, sir." 

Thursday^ Jan. 18^ 1866. 1 was toU this morning to 
take the place of the ship's cook, who got a finger jammed 
Glaring the ship's riotous behavior yesterday. I find this no 
sinecure, the work continuing from 3 A. M. to 8 P. M. I 
greatly dislike the having to get into the hot coppers, (large, 
square tanks of boiler-iron,) to clean them out after cooking 
the men's dinner in them, so Uiai 1 may boil their tes-water 
in the same tank. One copper b for fresh water exclusively ; 
the o4lier is filled with sea water to boil salt meals and any 
tidng where the water is not to combine with the food to be 
cooked. This morning the gale abated about as suddenly 
as it came on. We have been in sight of the Alps all day, 
tifod at sundown made fast to a mooring buoy close under the 
beetling ridges of the Sardinio- French town of Ville Franche. 

Friday^ Jan. 19. A view of the place by daylight leads 
one to infer that the town is taking on new life. Jn all parts 
of it are new or unfinished houses, and even the ivy-grown 
walls of some of tlie ancient ones appear to have been reju- 
vinated as if just wakened from a Rip Van Winkle sleep of 
ages. Great public improvements are in course of construc- 
tion. Along the sides of the ridges on either hand are walls 
and terraces, the steep sides of the ndges quarried out for 
carriage ways of easy grades, with cone-shaped heaps of the 
rubbish tipped down the mountain side in many places. It 
looks as if Kapoleon is trying to found or colonize a city in 



00 m KOTIKO LIVE. 

tbe new territory ceded him bj Victor EmKoael for services 
in the Lmubtinly mmpaign against Anstria. 

Fiida-f, Jai. 36, 1866. A Dew Prenoh ircD-dsd, nsraed 
La Tereaaa, pierced for six broadeide gotm and htTing a 
semi'Ciroular breaatfrturb forward, decked over appsrentiy to 
form a t(^)-gallsut-fDrecaatle, came into port at aiiDset. 



NAPOUON'S IDEAL IRON-CUU). 
She ItMifcs like b cnpuzed rpBAel that has had a fence built 
ti few feet from each aide of her keel lo keep her crew from 
leing washed off ht-r bottom, sod two Jury masta, a smoke- 
sLflck and otiter appointments erected to see if she would do 
I>ett4'r that side up. One of her maats i« a derrick, though 
it might answer as a main boom were it not for the email, 
ir.iii su oke funnel or ventilator Just shaft that mast. It is 
] rovoking some amaairg criticism smoog our ship'a orew. 
Ouly two other veascls are in pwt, both small, and had run 
in from the gale evidently. They appeared to be waiting for 



ON DECK AGAIN. GIBJRALTAR. 81 

wind enough to get out agais. I see do signs of commerce 
being earned on here, and those going ashore for ofllcers' 
mess supplies find a great lack of everything they want. I 
hear that the Colorado^ flagship of the squadron, sailed from 
here for Lisbon two days before we arrived, and that we are 
to fcrflow to-morrow. 

8cawrday, Jan. 27^ 1866. We put to sea at 10 A. M. 
I was sent to my watch at 8 P. M., I having accidentally 
ci^psized a jug of wardroom officers' milk placed in my way 
by the wardroom cocoes while I was getting the mess-eookB* 
kettles of skouse ready to put on the fire in the morning. I 
am not sorry to be relieved from the detail, as it was doing 
the work of a $45 msn at about one-third his pay, with no 
extra compensation. 

Sunday^ Jan. 28. A fine day with a cool breeze from 
the soathwest. We had quarters, inspection. Divine Service, 
and reading of the Articles of War at muster ; after which 
we were told that we had behaved so well we would be given 
liberty as soon as we got to any place where we could stop 
l<»g enough. This was consoling after listening to Articles 
terminating in ^^shall suffer death, or such other punishment 
as a courtmartial shall adjudge." 

Monday^ Jan. 29. At midnight we were abreast of Mi- 
n<Mrea, and daylight found us in sight of Majorca on our port 
beam. At general quarters exercise this forenoon I got a 
bayonet thrust in my finger while ^^repelling boarders." In 
tha afternoon we were exercised in the first principles of 
fencing. We set all sail at 5 P. M. and shut off steam- It 
had become calm again at midnight and all hands furled the 
sails as an exercise when changing the watch. Steam was 
then started. 

Tuesday, Jan. 30. A fine, warm day, the sea scarcely 
vufi9ed. They are taking advantage of this fine weather to 



82 KY KOVING LIFK. 

perfect us in ull kinds of drill before meeting the Admiral. 
We had general quarters and fighting-fire drills in the fore- 
noon. In the afternoon we were drilled at facings and at 
marking time. I was sent from drill because I could not 
hear. The Spanish coast is just discernable to our right. 
We met and exchanged colors ^^ith a steamer at 4 P. M. 

Wednesday^ Jan. 3ly 1866. Cloudy and inclined to be 
rainy. All hands were called to clean ship after breakfast, 
which means that we will probably go into Gibraltar. We 
sent down topgallant yards and mended the furl of our sails : 
that is, we smoothed out all wrinkles and bunches in the furl 
to look as neat as posstbie on going into port. At 4 P. M. 
the African coast wa^ visible to the south, stretching east 
and west a long distance, while sails were in sight all around 
us, coming from or going to ^^The Rock.*' The wind had 
been freshening during the day, giving us the prospect of a 
^^nasty night," but it went down with the sun, and at 10 P. 
M. it was calm and we were steaming silently along, keeping 
a good lookout for becalmed vessels that lay in our course. 
The striking of our bell for that hour wakened the watch of 
of a small brig just ahead and close to our coarse, causing 
n furious ringing of her bell and rush on deck of those below, 
evidently thinking they were about to be run down by us. 
Her position had been reported by our lookout some time 
before and we were amused to witness their flurry. Their 
lookout probably kept awake during the rest of his watcli. 
We anchored at Gibraltar at 1 1 P. M. 

Thursday, Feb. 1. We saluted *'The Rock" at 9 A. M. 
and received a salute in return. The Kearaarge and Frolic, 
of our fleet, are in port, the first we have met since leaving 
home. We up anchor at 10 o'clock to take a berth nearer 
town for convenience in coaling ship. The Kearsarffe went 
to sea in the afternoon. 



COAL1K6 8HIP. A LIGHTER SUKK. 83 

Friday^ Feb. 2^ 1866. We got an early breakfast to be 
i-eadj to coal ship. The Frolic went to the eastward at 9 
o'clock this morning. She was a captured bloekade-mnner 
and an eyesore to the people here. The fog on the African 
shore leaves only the top of Mount Atlas clear and bare. 
Hera and along the Spanish coast it is streaming up the hills 
and ravines like steam from many cauldrons. While coaling 
I saw a fine specimen of coal containing the rings of two 
trees that had lain side by side^ the larger one fifteen inches 
in diameter. I laid it to one side for leisure to examine it. 
It caught the eye of the ship's writer, a Harvard graduate, 
as he passed by, and he was as interesteti in tracing out the 
rings aud grain of the ancient wood as I was. Row much 
pleasure can be derived from even the slightest knowledge of 
a science. It often renders interesting many of the simplest 
incidents that otherwise would be a mere blank. Scarcely 
another enlisted man in the ship would have notice these 
lines in the black mass that told us so much of its past his- 
tory. ^^O, it happened so," said one of the boys wlien the 
ship's writer was telling them how these rings showed that 
the coal came fram the wood of a tree. His retort that **So 
did the world happen so !" was accompanied by a look as if 
he felt that be had been throwing pearls before swine. Mr. 
Wright was an amused witness to the affair and let it go on 
as we were not kept from work but were waiting for another 
lighter to come off. He confirmed our words that this ooal 
once grew as wood in an English swamp. That settled it. 
The wind had freshened so that we had to give the Hhip more 
chain and the sea was so rough when the second lighter came 
aknigside loaded to the gun wales that we had to let her drop 
astern. She had shipped so much water that she sank just 
astern of us, her Spanish owner kneeling in the bow praying 
to the saints till the boat sank under him instead of throwing 



84 MT ROVING UPS. 

overboard coal from the bovr. This southeast gale is the 
only wind that can trouble vessels in the bay of Gibraltar. 
An English steam frigate came in from sea this afternoon 
and anchored close under the mole. The gales here rise in 
squalls, are short and sharp, and subside as quickly. It is 
calm again this eveping. 

Saturdaif^ Feb, Sj 1866, We got another early breakfast 
and succeeded in taking in our complement of 200 tons of 
<;oal during the day. A little before supper time we had 
emptied one lighter and another came up to take its place 
and I took its line to pass to the ship. The empty lighter 
had been pushed away from the ship until there was about 
ten feet of water between them. Expecting to find the ship 
close to me I looked up to pass the line to those on board, 
but not finding the ship where I expected it and looking up 
too suddenly, an action sometimes producing dizziness and 
a roaring in my ears, 1 lost my balance and having nothing 
to cling to would have fallen flat upon my stomach had I not 
jumped to strike the water feet first. When 1 came to I had 
been under water some time, for after a few kicks that sent 
me to the surface I found that messmate Williams and some 
others had stripped to dive for me, seeing that I remained 
motionless. A wave helped me to reach the ganwale and I 
got aboard the empty lighter without much help. The full 
lighter was some distance astern and they were using their 
sweeps to get alongside again. Mr. Claric had the de<^ and 
ordered me to come aboard and change my clothes. As I 
reached the deck he laughingly asked me what I Jumped for. 
1 said ^^ 1 thought 1 needed washing, sir," and after he had 
his laugh oat gave him the true reason. I was sent below 
with orders to get on dry clothes and finish washing my face 
as it was too streaked to pass muster. 1 had been shoveling 
(lusty coal for three hours before taking to the water, and tt 



LI8BON AKD THE FLEET. S5 

seems that I had not remained in my bath tab, big as it was, 
long enough for complete ablation. We went to the coaling 
again directly after we had supper and finished soon after 
dark. Everything was left standing until morning. 

Sunday^ Feb, 4^ 1866, We cleared up and washed down 
the deck before breakfast. After quaiters, general inspec- 
tion, and Divine Service we were set to cleaning ship. We 
hove short on our cable after supper and at evening quarters 
secured our guns for sea. 

Monday^ Feb. 6. All hands were called to up anchor at 
1 1 o'clock last night, and at midnight we were plowing away 
for Lisbon with our steam rotary plow. This morning our 
watch washed clothes and while washing decks at 7 o'clock 
commenced making sail. The Rock still looms up in the 
distance and several sail are in sight coming out or going in 
to ^^ The Straits.*' Coming on deck this noon we found the 
ship close-hauled on the starboard tack, making an almost 
direct course for Philadelphia instead of Lisbon. At mus- 
ket and cutlass drills this afternoon and evening I was sent 
away by our Division officer, Ensign Wadleigh, on account 
of my difficulty in hearing onlers and my apparent ability to 
use those weapons effectively. All sails were furled at 4 P. 
M. and steam stalled, heading N. W. by N. 

Tuesday^ Feb. 6. All bands were cleaning ship in the 
forenoon. The sea was rough this morning, but at noon we 
were passing the light at the mouth af the Tagus, 24 miles 
from Lisbon, and in smooth water. We unbent all the light 
sails and sent down their gear to make the ship look neat 
and trim aloft on going into port. At 3 : 30 P. M. we let 
go our first anchor, and at 6 o'clock were thoroughly moored 
in the broad expansion of the river opposite Lisbon, and a 
short distance astern of Admiral Goldsborough's flagship, 
the Colorado. GoMsborough had succeeded Farragut. In 



86 MT ROVING LIFE. 

port were the CanandUtgua^ recently from Boston, and the 
Kearsarge, both bark rigged, respectively one and two sizes 
smaller than the Ticonderoga^ the principal difference in size 
arising from their respective lengths. 

Wedntsdayj Feb. 7, 1S66. We scnibbed hammocks this 
morning. All the boats* masts are being scraped and their 
sails bHit for use. The launch was hoisted out of its chocks 
ready for lowering and I was set to cleaning her out, which 
means that 1 am to be one of her crew. A crew of petty 
officers is selected for drill in disembarking howitzers from 
the two largest botits, and probably there is to be a general 
fleet exercise at landing men and marines^ the men acting as 
soldiers. Saluting is going on all around upon the arrival 
of a Prussian war brig. 

Thursday^ Feb. 8. Holystoning decks. A mail came on 
board, but nothing for me. I was sent into the spirit-room 
to whitewash and re-stow it. I appear to be made the ship's 
^^general-utllity-man.'* It somtimes works in my favor, this 
time relieving me of the work in receiving provisions and 
stores going on at the time. 

Friday^ Feb. 9. At quarters to-day we thought we were 
sure to have our expected drill at landing troops^ taking our 
hint from the actions of otir officers. It passed off with our 
getting everything in readiness for that or any other drill 
the Admiral might order. The axles of our broadside gun- 
carriages were greased ready for quick work whenever the 
Admiral came aboard to inspect us. By signal from the 
flagship we loosed sails with the fleet, and at 1 P. M. furled 
them upon the same notitiaation. We beat the fleet at both. 
A sailor's pride is in the character of his ship for smartness. 
He wUl undergo any amount of drill with pleasure in order 
to ^^ beat the fleet'' at any general fleet exercise ; and to beat 
the flagship is his especial endeavor and delight. The men 



TK "BEAT THE FLEET," 87 

learn to judge when an order is about lo be given and tbey 
nillvteal aloft in BUiBcient'iminberB to "get every lb icg ready 
for ninniDg," and the flagahip is almost sore to have the bunt 
of her aaiU balf-formed when the aignal ia broken for the 
fleet to furl sail. Tbia waa our firat meeting with tbe fleet, 
and the qnartermaaler on watch kept a. bright lookout for 
and reported theae aigna of activity at once. Henoe, when 
n series of I'olled aigaal flags was being run up on board the 
flagship a little before our noon hour was up our master-at- 
arms passed tbe word "Everybody on deck !" and we knew 
just what it Doeant. Tbe beilb-deek waa cleared quickly of 
every man fit for duty ezc«'pt himeelf. "All bands !" could 
not be called by the piping of tbe Boatswain and his males 
without detection by the Admiral, nor could any man show 
himself above the hamiuock-uettings, or forecaatlemen touch 
a rope on tbe top- gal laut- forecastle, but those wbo wei% to 
furl the jibs were lounging close by, raady to " lay out" at 
the word of command and every rope was led out ready to be 
manned tbe instant the order was given. Our success gave 
us note with the ships of every nation witnessing the trial. 
Our oflScers, from the captain down, are as elated and prond 
of our euccesa as we are. Tbe clouds and barometer show 
that a storm is at hand, and 
we shackled cbain to our best 
sheet anchor. Tbe lateen 
Rails of the fishermen and I 
small coasters as tbey float] 
in a nearly horizontal posi-l 
lion on eitber side of their I 
masts form quite a pretty ' 
view as ibey scurry into port 
from the Ihreateoed storm. 
Tbe sails, poised aome dis- 
tance above Ibe bo«t call to 
mind a novel of Mwwyrttfs, "T^JE WJNGAND WINO." 



SS MT ROTtNO LIPB. 

In this position the sails have a lifting action upon the boat 
and they are quite weatherly in ronning before a gale otf that 
account. Tbe> look like so many great gulls sailing with 
poised wings cloee to the surface of the water ready to seize 
an object floating there. At a first glance in the distant 
twilight one may be hardly able to tell whether it is a bird or 
boat. My home-made cut will give some idea of the resem- 
blance. We took in fresh water to-day and some was stolen 
in transfer from the boat« to the 7rater*tanks in the hold by 
men for a fresh-water wash. It was amusing to see them 
use it in succession with added supplies of soap until it had 
become anything but ^^fresh." I preferred to draw a buck- 
etful from alongside aft«r the tide had been running out for 
some three hours and was quite fresh. We had watched the 
line of river water meet and gain mastery over the salt tide- 
water, plainly shown by an agitated line creeping down to 
us, the ship swinging to its influence as it passed us on its 
way to the sea. A current of five miles an hour was found 
when the log was thrown, and the water with such a current 
would be reasonably fresh, yet the water they used was far 
better to them for being purloined from the ship's stores. 
After supper we sent down top-gallant yards with the fleet 
and beat them again. This fixes our status as the smartest 
ship on the stailoD. 

3cUurdw/j Feb. 10, 1866. I slept soundly all night for 
the first time in a long while, my ears having been troubling 
me exceedingly of late. I was sent in the spirit-room again 
to-day. Mr. Allyn finds that the smell of the liquor doesn't 
affect me. We received our inspection visit from the Admi- 
ral, ami be witnessed our drills at quarters, fighting fire, at 
making and taking in sail, shifting topsails, and even had 
U9 fish the foremast, (strap joists of wood around it with 
ropes, like splinters around a broken arm.) He expressed 



COKDEMKED FBOTISIOIIS TBBOWM OVERBOARD. 89 

liimself an highly plmted With cor appearanoe and bahavlor. 
£verythiiig was done promp^y, ■peedily, without a hitch or 
flurry of any kind, and wiihovt noiay eomnaiida. 

iSttsuiay, Ftb* 11. 1866. It is a very rainy and a very 
windy day. Moat of the mea-o'-war aent down top-gallant 
maata or honied iopmaata, bat we hold on to ooia. We did 
nothing bat hooae awnings. This ia done by faatening the 
onter edg«e to the aides of the ship low down, so aa to shed 
rain. The water mna off and falls upon the deek and goes 
overboard through the seoppers. Not all of it, for it is the 
sailors' time for getting his fresh water sembbing all over in 
water canght from the awninga. Don Quixote would have 
found plenty of oeeupation in an endeavor to atop windmills 
here to-day. The hills all aroood us are erowned with them 
whirling furionaly in the gale, many of them apparently at 
work grinding. The motto here seems to be ^^Griiid your 
grain while the wind Mowa." We find no quiet Sabbaths 
like those of New England anywhere we go. 

Jfonday, Feb. 12, 1866. The gale had abated aomewhat 
this morning, though it still raina at intervale. We had no 
ezereiae at quarters aa the hooaed awning would have inter- 
fered with the working of the guna* I waa sent to the hdd 
to help break out planks and oars for the earpenters in the 
f<wenoon. There was no ship's work in the afternoon, and 
the men were allowed on the berth deck on account of the 
rain. I made a cap for aea aervice in place of one given a 
measmate who had loat hia laat one overboard while aloft. 

Tufday, Feb. 13. We had to break out the hold again 
to-day for sonae rice and other thinga complained of aa unfit 
for food. Coffee, bread, rice, and other thinga, enough to 
support a small family three montha were condemned by a 
''Court" and thrown overboard. We had been fitted out at 
lia with the remaina of stores Inrought home by 



90 MT BOVIN« LIFE, 

ressels after ibe war closed and some of.it was very poor. 
The regalatioDS require tliat every stick of wood shall be ex- 
amined before being put on board a ship for fear of wood 
destroying insects getting aboard to multiply, but food des- 
troying insects did not appear to have been guarded against 
so thoroughly when fitting us out. Very likely Uie authori- 
ties acted on the principle of the darkie who covered his hat 
very carefully from the rain and worked in the rain with his 
wooly pate unprotected. When asked if he was not afraid 
of getting sick by working with his head uncovered, his an- 
swer *^ Hat 's mine, head 's Massa's" was about as sensible 
as allowing weevils and maggots to go on board a ship and 
stodc its hold and bread-room with their progeny in order to 
i»ve that amount of stores to the Government, thinking it 
was only sailors who were expected to eat them. Word is 
passed to have all letters for home in the mail-bag to*night. 
The CanaTidagua goes to England and the Baltic, while we 
go to Gibraltar and expect to visit twenty-two different ports 
of the Meditterranean before returning to Lisbon. 

Wedi%e$da}f^ Feb. 14, 2866, We unshackled the chains 
tram the mooring swivel- before breakfast and brought one 
chain to the capstan ready to run up one anchor when the 
signal is given by the Admiral. In the presence of the Ad- 
miral we have to wait for permission even to lower clothe^* 
lines, no matter how sodden may be a shower in its comings 
There were frequent spits of rain all day and no signal to up 
anchor coming we removed th^ chain from the capstan and 
let It ran down into the chain locker at sunset. 

Thuraday, Feb* 15. We got under weigh at 11 A. M. in 
company with the flagship, the Caiiandagua, and Kearaargej 
leaving the storeship Ino a fixture here. There are papers 
aboard giving an aoconnt of the picking up of our lifebuoys 
and the supposed loss of the ship. The buoys- were tony 



UP TBX MBDnTERBAKEAV. $1 

from their lashings by a bea^'y sea December 16th, on the 
passage from Fayal to Lisbon. It most have been a time 
of anxiety to onr friends until the news of oar safe arrival 
reached them. After getting an offing the Oanandagua left 
us and steered to the northward, bonnd for English waters, 
and will probably visit Baltic ports this summer, while we 
stood to the south with the flagship and tips Kearsarge^ with 
a prospect of visiting twenty-two Meditterranean ports after 
flUing with coal at Gibraltar. The gallant little Kearsarge 
is keeping closer in shore and farther astern, bonnd for Ca* 
dia we suppose. 

Friday^ Feb. 16, 1866. All sails were furled at 8 A. M. 
We were expecting to be piped to breakfast, !»ut the signal 
from the Admiral read '' Furl all sail !'' instead. It didn't 
make any diflference in the result, however, for we beat the 
flagship handsomely. The Colorado was two cable lengths 
ahead and we could see no signp of preparation made by her 
men, and sails being set the test was a fair one, for neither 
crew could do anything toward furling by stealth as when 
the sails hung in festoons. The Cohrado^s crew will get all 
the exercise they care for, probably, before we meet again. 
The forecastle was short of men from sickness and I was one 
of our topmen sent to help furl the foresail. Not hearing 
the cnrder ^^ Down booms !" I got caught between the stud- 
dingsail boom and fofe-yard and squeezed like a lemon in a 
lemon squeezer. The boom not coming down well the man 
at the inner end rode it down with his weight. I could not 
even squeak and would have been seriously injured had not 
the man outside me called instantly to those on deck to hoist 
up that boom again. 

Saturday, Fd^. 17, All hands cleaning ship in the fore- 
noon. I got a harder squeeze than I supposed yesterday, 
as I feel quite sore about n^y nbs and am spitting blood at 



92 Mr BOYING LIPE. 

intervals. The doctor thought some small blood vessel in 
the right lung was ruptured and wound a bandi^e around 
my chest tightly several times, telling me not to exert myself 
for a few days. The Admiral hove to at noon and sent us 
into port. We anchored at Gibraltar at 5 P. M. and hoisted 
the seniority flag, the storeship NatiancU Guard being there. 

Sunday^ Feb. 18^ 1866. The sentences of « ooaitmMttal 
on four of our men were read at muster this morning. One 
was fined two months pay and deprived of liberty ashore on 
the station for jumping overboard and trying to swim away 
while drunk. Another got drunk while on duty ashore and 
resisted a marine on boovd who attempted to take him in 
custody and tore the coat of John Margemm, another marine 
in the scuffle to overpower him. He was fined two months 
pay, $2 for the coat, and deprived of liberty at the next port 
where liberty is given. The third man smuggled liquor on 
board and iM>ld to the first and fourth. He received the same 
sentence as the first man ; while the fourth man, for.sitiiply 
getting drunk upon the smuggled liquor without beiug very 
disorderly was given ten days confinement in double irons. 
After supper we rigged stagings for coaling ship to-morrow. 

Monday, Ftb. 19. We took in 90 tons of coal. I still 
continuing to spit blood occasionally the doctor tightened 
the bandage and let me run, though the bandage hurts my 
sore ribs at every pull upon a rope. We got under weigh 
at 7 P. M. for Malaga. 

Tuesday, Feb. 20. We anchored in the outer harbor of 
Malaga at 8 A. M. and then loosed sails to dry. I was in 
the sail-room to-day overhauling sails to transfer some spare 
sails to another room. The rest of the men were scraping 
and slushing (greasing) masts, or other work of tl)e kind. 
Being sent on these details by order of Mr. Allyn the men 
can only gi'owl when it relieves me from a share of some 



SOME OF MT HE88]f ATEfi GROWL. 98 

anpleasant work, though they are free to acknowledge that 
It does not always work In my favor, and that I never shirk 
or hang ba<^ from any duty when on deck. Charlie Nor- 
wood and Tom Webster, two native Americans from Maine^, 

m 

reminded them at dinner time that it didn't give me a fat 
job though it was a ^'slushy'' one when I had to do the ship's 
cook's work, and Capt.-o'-the-top Pete Wood silenced the 
growlers when he tpld them that not one of them would be 
trqsted to do the things I had to do even if they could do 
them, and they would be in the sick bay now if they had my 
squeeze on the fore yard. ^* That's so !" said one, and they 
turned to growling at each other for suggesting such a things 
They are not disposed to be unfair about anything, but have 
to be shown wherein they are at fault when the thing does 
not work in their favor. They will be inclined to favor me 
quite a while now, at least until this mess growl is foi^gotten. 
Monday^ Feb. 21^ 1866. We gave our hammocks their 
fortnightly scrubbing. We receive our clean hammocks the 
night before and return the scrubbed ones at inspection of 
them at quarters after they are dry. The bedding is aired 
monthly by fastening in the lower rigging by the middle with 
the mattrass and blankets opened out to the sun and wind. 
We saluted some Spanish officers that visited the ship. Our 
Xl-inch guns excite great interest. They examine outside, 
they look into the big muzzles of these guns and then at 
each other as if they were ahead of their time ; and they are. 
The Frolic lies inside the breakwater and her boats' crews 
are on board occasionally. This forenoon 24 names were 
called for going ashore on liberty, and my name was among 
them. We were supplied with half-a-month's pay each in 
Spanish gold and told to get ready to go ashore after dinner 
for a 24 hours' leave. While at the mess cloth spread near 
the top-gallant forecastle Norwood jokingly said, ** Stuart, 



94 MT KOTIN6 LirS. 

DOW don't ran away till we have a ciiance ashore.'' My an* 
swer was ^^ What 1 may do will not hart yoar chance/' but 
it seems that some of the officers were in hearings for when 
we were mastered in the gangway to be set ashore Mr. Allyn 
looked at me and asked if that was the best salt 1 had. (It 
was better than the rest by a mustering Jacket ; all new bat 
the frock.) He said 1 didn't look well enough to go and I 
couldn't go ashore looking so. I told him I would be glad 
to wait until I had finished a new mustering frock and take 
my turn another time. I was told I couldn't wait and could 
not have it another time ; so 1 responded, ^^Aye, aye, sir," 
and walked forward in an extremely erect manner. They 
tell me they expected Mr. Allyn to call me back and punish 
me by the way he looked after me, but that he turned to Mr. 
Wadleigh and said, ^^ He 's a spunky fellow, anyway." He 
intended to nip my supposed deserting scheme in the bud. 
Boatswain Briscoe met me on my way forward to know what 
was the trouble and offered to lend me a frock of his sailor 
mustering suit when a seaman, and when 1 told him of Nor- 
wood's remark he offered to go my security. I tokl him 
that ^^I would rather stay aboard until my officers learned to 
respect and trast me than to have any one go my security, 
and that 1 would stay on board till Mr. Allyn was satisfied 
that I had no intention of deserting and put my name on a 
liberty list of his own accord — I certainly should not ask for 
liberty until then." I would have liked to see the country, 
noted as it is for its raisin grape, but the city, according to 
reports of the Froli&s men, is mean looking and has nothing 
worth seeing except the cathedral. It is probably a fair 
sample of small Spanish and Portugese towns ; a collection 
of one or two room cabins of adobe or sun-dried blocks of 
clay about four times the dimensions each way of our brick^ 
and white or yellow-washed on the outside, with ihe bare 



LIBERTY MEM RETCBN **D A D.** A FEW "C * S/' 95 

land filthy earth for a floor, infested by mangy curs, fleas,, 
and other vermin, and plastered with mad on the inner walls* 
The roofs are covered with the only cleanly material about 
them — fire-bomed, gotter-shaped tiles, arranged to form lii|$^ 
of gutters from the ridge to the eaves, each alternate line 
inverted after this manner : — ^rxr^nrx. to lead the water into 
the line of gutters on each side. The country is quite hilly, 
the hills steep and full of ravines, and only an occasional tree 
to be seen. While 1 was sewing upon my new frock to-day 
one of the alee^-es and my scissors disappeared. No trace 
of them could be found among the men who were sewing near 
me. Someone wanted a patch, badly. 

Tkur9day, Feb. 22^ 1806. It being Washington's birth* 
day we hoisted ensigns at our mastheads at daylight and at 
noon flred a salute in honor of the day. It was so rainy 
we did not wash decks in the morning. The liberty men are 
coming off singly and in pairs, and most of them are drunk 
and dirty, if no worse. The material for our fresh soup was 
so scanty that the ship's cook with other petty ofllcers went ' 
to the mast with a complaint and obtained some rice to put 
with it. Instead of 250 pounds of fresh beef there were 175 
only, and of vegetables the supply was even more scanty as 
also unusual in kind for a soup. One-half-bushel green peas 
in the (not edible) pods, Mz carrots, one good-sixed squash, 
one peck of onions, and one bushel of potatoes cleaned out 
the market according to the Paymaster's Steward who bought 
the material. It was intended for 220 men. The smacks, 
small sailing vessels, and even steamers have been running 
into port for shelter all the forenoon. A lady^ wife of th^ 
Colorado's Chief Engineer, came off in the last boat at 2 P. 
M. as we were getting under weigh, and as the sea was very 
rough she was hoisted with the boat and helped on board 
after it was run up. In the evening we were off Capo De 



96 MT ROVING LirK. 

Gata^ or Cat Cape, with a gale blowing in our teeth and the 
snowy peaks of the Sierra Nevada sending down chilly gusts 
that made us quite nncomfortable. 

Friday y Feb. 23^ 1866. Morning found us still plunging 
into a heavy head sea and abreast the same cape. In the 
afternoon the lady passenger was nearly washed out of her 
berth by the sea bursting in her cabin deadlight. Hatches 
are battened down, for great seas are tumbling in upon us 
over our hows and gangways, flooding the decks two feet in 
depth at times ; in fact plunging over the combings of the 
fire*room hatch which is three feet high. At 2 P. M. tilings 
began to break in earnest and we were forced to steer into 
quieter seas under the shelter of the cape. The gale began 
to subside at sunset and at midnight we resumed our course. 

Saturday y Feb. 2/. This tdoming found us with the sea 
smooth again. 1 ate my ration of bread skouse with good 
relish this morning, for f had fasted since Thursday noon on 
account of seasickness produced by the storm. We did not 
anchor at Carthagena until 7 P. M. 

Sunday^ Feb. 25. From our anchorage the city looks to 
be quite well built, with a wall running along the shore the 
greater part of its length. There is a little knoll near the 
city that has a cave under it, and as the gales sweep in from 
the sea the water msbes into its month with much splashing 
and roaring. We find here a Spanish 90-gun ship, a frigate, 
and a 16-gun brig; also our own little Frolic. She sailed 
from Malaga the day before the storm and reached this port 
before it had fairly set in. There is a Belfast, Me. ship in 
port short of men, and her captain was aboard b^^ng for 
ten men to take the ship home. He did not succeed in his 
endeavor. Men would have been willing to go if they could 
liAve protection of an officer with them, but they were shy of 
a ship whose captain for any reason could not keep his crew« 



IN TBS TROUGH OF THE 8EA. 97 

Monday, Feb. 26, 1866. To-day we have been kept very 
busy breaking out and re-stowing the bold to get four small 
water casks for a catamaran or floating staging for working 
around the sides of the ship. It seems as if nothing ever 
came handy in this ship's hold. Eight men were sent into 
the hold to help the captain-of-the-hold. About half of the 
eight would help its captain look on most of the time^ while 
the rest did the work. The Boatswain came down to see to 
the re-etowage, and as I was forcing a barrel into place by 
my feet against the barrel and my shoulders braced against 
whatever I could find, he exclaimed, ^^ I never saw such a 
man ! You work with your hands, feet, head, and shoulders 
all four at once." John Hudson told him ^^ Nobody ever 
had to go into the Metacomet^s hold to help break out after 
Stuart had charge." Our captain-of-the«hold is as good as 
they will average, but the average mnn-o'war's-man is rarely 
capable of much effective head-work. It began to blow at 
sunset and I jokingly remarked to a shipmate that this ship 
could not remain in port in such weather and that we would 
have to get to sea before eight bells. At six bells (7 o'clock) 
the call to up anchor came, and at eight bells our watch took 
the deck with the ship diving into a heavy swell, making her 
way out to sea. The deck was soon half-knee-deep with 
water. Our port was to leeward and we were congratulating 
each other on very soon gaining an offing and would then 
put the helm up and slip along with dryer decks under sail. 
But this was a delicate operation in a heavy sea for our top- 
heavy ship. It nearly proved disastrous. Suddenly, with 
no warning she rolled her port hammock nettings under and 
the water rushed on board the whole length of the ship, and 
flooded the berth deck, firei'oom, and even the steerage and 
wardroom with water. We almost hoped to see the masts 
go over the side, and we would have even spared one of our 



98 MY ROVING IslFJi. 

pets, the pivot gans, were it not that the men were in the lee 
scuppers where its eight tons of iron would have crushed 
them in its course through the bulwarks. Everything made 
so secure that it could not get awaj cracked and whistled 
with the strain, and everything not securely lashed brought 
up in the port scuppers mixed with legs, pump-brakes, arms, 
feet, halliard -racks, heads, and spittoons, all in a confused 
medley, with the water pouring upoa and bearing them down. 
The ship lay in this position a moment as though surprised 
with us at this sudden and most furious assault from her 
old enemy ; but she gathered herself for the recoil — and re- 
coil she did — sending everything over to the other scuppers 
with an addition to the number of men by those who had 
forced their way up the hatches Under the impression that 
the ship was on her beam ends and filling. They were in 
season to catch a pouring bath from over the starboard rail. 
Their hammocks had sw4ing so as to strike the deck beams 
above them with force. We gathered ourselves the best we 
could and held on to the nearest stationary object — except 
the pivot gun,— looked for what might come next, and waited 
fur ordei*s. By this time the ship had gotten before the wind 
enough to be out of the trough, and soon getting steady she 
gaily raced the waves on her course. One of the watch be- 
low was seen wearing a spittoon on his head as he was on 
the point of stepping upon the ladder to return to his ham- 
mock. He hadn't stopped to dress when he came on deck 
and he looked so comical in spittoon and short-tailed frocfc 
stepping over the combing of the hatch three feet above us 
that he was gi'eeted with a roar of laughter. ^^ Loose th^ 
fore- top-sail T' came the order, and we found the ship was 
going nearly east. We passed two lights, (at Cape Palos,^ 
and the coast then trending to the northward our course was 
changed accordingly. While on lookout between 10 and 12 



MT TERM OF SERVICE HALF GOKE. 99 

I reported a dim light (at Cape Nao or Ship Cape) far to the 
north. Our topeail was then taken in and speed slackened. 
Tuesday^ Feb. 27^ 1666. In the morning we found the 
gale had abated and that we were lying to off the harbor of 
Alicante. We entered and came to anchor at 8 : 30, during 
a heavy fall of rain. At noon it was blowing quite freshly 
again. To-day completes half my term of service. Our 
boat) the 2nd cutter, took some of our oflSeers ashore, but 
though we could rub our hands against the jetty wall we 
were not allowed to enter the city or even step ashore. We 
had the same satisfaction as the miser's son who was allowed 
to rub his bread against the cupboard door where the eheese 
was kept. If the portions of Spanish soil I have seen are 
fair specimens I wonder not at the backwaiti state of its ag- 
riculture. Ragged, desolate edges of rocky, steep hillsides, 
destitute of a single tree or sign of vegetation, markets de- 
void of everything but a few vegetables, dried figs, roasted 
squash seeds, sour oranges, and FISH attest to this state. 
These crags are crowned by ruinous castles or fortifications. 
An extremely unfinished looking breakwater paiiially shelters 
small vessels fix>m the storms that rise here with scarcely a 
warning. The rock for building this appears to have been 
quarried from an adjacent hill in the rear of the town, and 
they had removed the hill close up to the foot of a castle that 
crowned the hilltop, leaving almost vertical faces to those of 
its sides towaixi the city and harbor. Another hill a short 
mile farther away seems to have been nioBe recently used, 
though appearances would scarcely justify one in claiming 
it to have been done at as late a date as the Pliocene Age. 
1 reported my second installment of bounty as now payable 
and found it could not be paid except by an order from the 
captain of the ship. It is getting so rough at sunset that we 
Are expecting to hear the call to up anchor at any moment to 



100 MT BOYIKG UPC. 

worry oat the gale at sea, though the more probable theory 
ia that the time allotted as to make the grand toar of the 
If editterraneao is so short that the captain ases nights to go 
from one unimportant port to another and stops only a day 
where our presence is not needed by oar consul. 

Wednesday^ Feb. 28, 1866. We went to the jetty again 
to-day, but were no nearer stepping ashore than yesterday. 
The character of the men entering our naval service is such 
that officers dare not trast them until they have proved their 
reliability. The few native Americans of trustworthiness 
that do enter have to undergo the same test as others. We 
cannot blame our officers for being unable to know at first 
sight who can be trusted ; for some of the best seamen are 
unable to trust then^selves where liquor is obtainable. In 
no Service, either naval or merchant, does a seaman receive 
so good treatment as in the U. 8. Navy, yet there are some 
nationalities that seem unable to keep faith if occasion offers 
1o break it. A desire for frequent change seems to possess 
them and they do not even themselves know when the fit to 
desert will take them. ] finished my new mustering frock 
this afternoon and it hangs to suit the most fastidious man* 
O'-war's-man. We went to sea at 6 P. M. for Valencia, 160- 
miles distant. 

Thursday y Mar. 1 . We came to anchor in the harbor of 
Valencia shortly after nine o'clock this morning. I went to 
the captain asking for my bounty to send home to make a 
payment on my farm, handing in the Selectmen's certificate 
as evidence of my owning one. The Paymaster says that 
his books have it that the full bounty of $300 has actually 
been paid. I said ^^Tbe second installment was not due till 
two days ago, sir." ''Bluff!" might have been read in my 
look. The Captain said ''Of course it could not have been 
paid before it was due, but we cannot pay it till the error is 



VALENCIA. BARCELONA. lOl 

corrected, and the Paymaster will write to Washington for 
the correction.'* He then read the Selectmen's certificate 
alond to the knot of officers who had gathered near enough 
to hear what was going on. His reading it gave tliem to 
understand that he thought this man will not ran away, as 
his selectmen say that ^^ he owns a farm at home, and he is 
strictly temperate and thoroughly reliable in every respect." 
We have here a Spanish town on level ground. Single trees 
and orchards stadd the plain which extends back of the city 
several miles in the form of a triangle. The bills rise sud- 
denly from the edges of the plain, walling it in. It is well 
watered by a stream coming throngh a gap in the mountains 
at the apex of the triangle. The name, Valencia del Cid, 
would imply that it was founded by Ruy Diaz' ^^ The Cid," 
Count of Bivar, a champion of Christianity and of the old 
Spanish royalty in the 11th century; yet they are but now 
building a breakwater to protect the shipping seeking shelter 
or a mart. 

Friday J Mar. 2, 1S66. We up anchor at 6 P. M. for 
Barcelona. At midnight we were passing a light to the east, 
supposed to be Colnmbretes Rocks, the mainland showing 
dimly on the western horizon in the light of the full moon. 
The ^^switchtails" were running across the sky at sunset and 
I prophesied wind and perhaps rain for to-morrow. Mr. 
Wxight asked me why I thought so. On my pointing out to 
him the lines loinning across the sky like meridian lines on a 
globe and many of them branching out like a switching tail 
of a horse, he remarked, *^ Time will tell whether you are p> 
true prophet." I asked him to take note of it to-morrow. 

Saturday^ Mar. 3. We came to anchor in the outer har- 
bor of Barcelona at 12 : 80 this noon, rolling our studding- 
sail-booms out from the yards, the wind being quite fresh 
with considerable sea running. Here is another attempt at 



102 MT BOYING LIFE. 

a breakwater, or rather tvro of tbem. Work upon one has 
apparently ceased long ago, though it is looking unfinished. 
They are still at work on the other. The line of snow on 
the mountain tops reaches to a lower level than heretofore, 
for we are some five degrees to the north of Cape de Gata, 
being now in the latitude of Kew Haven. At 2 P. M. we 
had to pay out cable to 80 fathoms, the wind still increasing 
and the ship rolling a^ if at sea. At sunset it began to calm 
down and at midnight we lay almost motionless upon sm3oth 
water. 

Sunday^ Mar. 4^ 1S66. All hands in our best blue suits 
for mustering, yet were called to up anchor to go into the 
inner harbor to moorings. We got moored and the decks 
cleaned again at 1 P. M. We were full of visitors all the 
afternoon. We had saluted the Spanish flag at 8 A. M. 
and had received that from the fort in return. 

Monday^ Mar. 5. We are painting the outside of the 
ship for the fourth time since leaving Philadelphia. A list 
of thirty men was read to go ashore on liberty for 24 hours. 

Tuesday^ Mar. 6. The liberty men come off slowly and 
behind time. We have been alongside the landing several 
times to-day, but it being my day to keep boat I did not get 
a chance to go ashore till after dinner, although one of the 
boys had promised to relieve me long enough to get some 
writing paper in return for a like favor received. They all 
intend to keep their word when they start out, but they find 
so many attractions, especially when there are liberty men 
ashore that they wait just a moment longer, or forget their 
promise entirely until the appearance of the officer of the 
i)oat causes them to hurry down to take their places. At 
this time Mr. Clark got down before part of the boys did, 
and 1 got permission to run up to a stall at the head of the 
landing to get some writing paper, which the men said they 



PROMPT AND CHEERFUL OBEDIEKCE KOT FOOLISH . 1 03 

isaw there. The woman in charge seeing me coming upon a 
run brought out a dirty tumbler and seemed greatly surprised 
that I didn't want to ^^ take something/* She bad paper of 
a quality of good ''news'* paper, cnt and folded like letter 
paper, and two sheets of spongy ruled paper. She told me 
there was a paper store just inside the city gate ; but I had 
permission to go only that far and I returned to the boat to 
get permission to go theie. I was told the boat was behind 
time already and must shove off at once. I stepped into the 
boat cheerfully and took my oar at once. After getting od 
board the ship one of my boatmates called me a fool for not 
going inside the gate and getting my paper, saying that Mr. 
Clark wouldn't have said anything if I had done so. We 
got into quite a discussion concerning its advisability, and 
sides were being taken among the messmates when a ward- 
room waiter came along inquiring for Stuart, the foretopman, 
and handed me a quire of fine quality letter paper and a 
bunch of envelopes, such as are used for foreign mail, saying 
they were fi-om Mr. Clark. ''Now, who*6 the fool?" was 
the remark of one of the men, and the jokes were on the 
other party. 1 had been well rewarded for my obeying the 
letter of my peimission, and they had received indisputable 
evidence that officers appreciate prompt and cheerful acqui- 
escence in a refusal of favors asked. Some of the liberty 
men broke a wagon they had hired yesterday, and with oth- 
ers who had been locke<l up for "getting up a shindy" broke 
the station house door and escaped. Most of those coming 
off are in pretty good order for sailors, though they are quite 
"happy." One was too grand to come off in a ship's boat 
and chartered one with a crew of two rowers for the occasion 
and sat with tipsy dignity perched upon the sternpost of the 
boat. Some apprentices and marines were among those on 
liberty. One of the apprentices came off in a beastly state 



t04 MT RQviKO Lnrx. 

^f intoxicatioD, made so by one of the men, unwillingly on 
his part. Mr. AUyn ipveatigated the matter, and I judge 
from his countenance that the man will not get liberty again 
very soon. 

WedneBday^ Mar. 7, 1866. The last of the liberty men 
came off this morning, twenty-four hours over time. One 
of them is a petty-ofHcer. Another lot started soon after. 
They had been held back until all the first lot had returned,, 
a rale that works admirably when boats' crews are allowed 
to run up for a short time while the officer of the boat is on 
his own errand, as some of these men will be on the list of 
those held back, und they will find and coax the delinquents 
down to the boat, and even use some force to keep them in 
the vicinity, if needed, until their officer appears. A gale 
is blowing with a chilly rain. 

Thutsday^ Mar. S. The gale has become quite heavy, 
and as it blows directly into the harbor even vessels inside 
the breakwater are as active in their rolling and pitching as 
any old salt could desire. We found it rough at the landing, 
the swell rolling In so forcibly that the Spanish boatmen had 
hauled tbetr boats out of the water. The fishing smacks are 
scudding in under wing-and-wing for shelter. Occasionally 
a qsit of rain gives variety to the weather without improving 
the temperature. After putting the Itbeity men ashore I was 
sent into the hold to take charge while its captain was on 
liberty. Quite a pleasant detail in this weather. 

Friday^ Mar. 9. Those on deck are coaling ship to-day. 
Having little to do in the hold 1 repaired my portfolio, which 
was in a very loaae condition. 

Saturday, Mar. 10. We are recei\ang water and at the 
same time holystoning decks. This gives me the hatches to 
the hold to scrub while attending to my fresh water tanks. 
We gQt ready for sea in the afternoon and up anchor at the 



IBS CAFTAIN FRAMBi MT MMQfmiOBK. THE RESULT. 105 

BfslAtg of the flfiti. Tbe Mtarty fliett ted eorn^ off very 
dmli. Om mm t>raii|jki do«»» to tbe iMNii ft quality of 
liqwH- to tmut tlM bMl'tf tmm Mil idl tat '«L^tie teiltfi,'* 
an ftffweBtioe of Mr bmm, giissM it doars in a bnny to get 
it Ottt of aigkt before ^ olfieer tptMMMd ; a«mi«iiilt ontof 
tlMK 18 aUghtly drank on duty for a aeeolid ttooto-day. At 
8 P. M. I went to ny deek doty, aa by nMMvfnf tfaa proper 
p ei a oa will ha^re beeoma anflMeotly aobeted lo be able to do 
biaowB work. It Ukea at leaattwdrehoinns for an average 
liberty man to rMover frooi a apvee aakave* 

/SkmOa^ Mar. lly 1896. We bad a eliff bieeae Md a 
flomewbat lougb aaa witb beary ekmda attd Bgh t nfa ^ to the 
BOitb and eaat of na laat nqi^t. It rafnedbeavtly wttbiieat 
Hbont 8 A. M., after wbicb tbe am came ont warn and very 
pleaaant, tboogh at timea hidden by maeaea of coinnil. Tbe' 
aen imiootbad down witb tlie breeae and we bad <|pMrtera, 
jfwpocyon, and mnater. In tbe afternoon we iiad Mvlne 
Serviee^ leil by a n«l ^ n ewie n d** in bia eanonioaia. TUa 
elMfynan, hia eon iN»i eon's wife are paaeengere in the eabin. 
It 18 a email tbtng to mention, bot my brigMwork waah^bly 
pmiOBd by Captain (Headman at kiepectloD tbis raoming aa 
bMg nieely kepi. I bad frem tbe first been in tbe baMtof 
oeing the amooth^ round back Of my eiieara aa a bnnialier 
and at tbia tinw bad gotten every portion poiiibed so tkat I 
bad oomparallvely liltfe tronUe in keeping It brigbt. (Tbia 
praiae from tbe Captain atmrted tbe e ck i eora of the otbam of 
o«r gnn'k etow into energetie aetkm, entimaing tbe erew of 
tbe itfter pivot gnn, ao tbat in a ebon time tbey watebad tbe 
qnicb gtanee of vieittng naval oAoera aa tbey passed ti»ir 
gnna and were prood of Hieir work. ) Onrgnn being Jnal at 
the atarbenid gangway, and Capliin StemUnatt knowing tbe 
inride «r Yankee emkNr lakes in tlm trim appearanee ol bis 
ship if be is not jlbi^osd into tbe woA of maidngimr so, tank 



196 mr w»mma un. 



opporUmaty, prolMtbly, te brisg out ttM sflrit of «Htat«- 
tiott bf a Mtde piiiiM« Bad all iMwAa bem oom^lM to do 
tUa aanw vork f mn ^eir Ihvt eaterl a g tiie ship they wbald 
ipary Ufc^jr kave tein in the atniMt moHiKKia oobMIcmi of 
tha eiMr a€ tlia frigwia €basfy«w, at Eio^ in IMt. SaRorB 
iiave aome of iha rimadenatiQs of malea. A great deal of 
walk eaa ba ^iHaa ant of tkeai if they are made to tbink 
ttay aia ktNriag thelf own way. It araa only neoeapaty for 
llir. ila LoBfCi of onr gna, or Mr. Bitakcoek, of kis gun, at 
their preliminary kMpectloaof tkair rrapaeCfv^ g«w balare 
qwaiem, l» aay to a ommi *« Yonr btigktwork raga nwet be 
damp, fmm bfigki w u i t ia laraMriBg,'' to alart the man ailth 
a akBaSt ^y «teUiv evan if it has to be the blaak i^ft aaek- 
atekiaf f ana kia aeak. I tniiked raa^li^ the Kaaaaehnaalta 
AgrieiilkBil Bq>ort tor i«5t, taken from ike i^i^'a Mraty. 
iQaeer n ai ing l» pat in a ekip'a library, bat it pnmid vny 
imaiaatiag laadiag lo taae aad ga\e me a aab^ for tboi|ght 
OB my kiakoiit at aii^t. •^^ Maek^ and its aae on the fum" 
waa Ipsaiiil in Ha pagew ao enthasteatioirfly that I oeaM not 
kot fhm iorsatsaaivc lantengea belipeen my j^ravally soil 
aad tha rieh peat of my meadoirt to the advimti^ of both. 

Jfrntfay, Mmr. 12. At 7 A. M . we were off the lilaad 
^ iaidima aad tan batwaen it and a email blend aouth of ft. 
At Ian ^'elaek a tasget of ire empty beef baiveto wHh a sail 
abelit tea faat a^oafa wM drappad ofte the si^ nd altera 
ania^ dialKiee had keen gidaed tke ^ip was hove t^ aad 
die lani roll eaUad as to qaarteta for target {Nraetlee. At 
ya tUad ahot Jordan of oar IX-iaeh broadside gan alraak 
the banaiai^demolMked Hie target. Oftkefoarleeaakato 
dred all meaM ha^a hailed a ship of onr alae. Jordaa iaia 
a C opgiasa medal lor distiaf iflhad serrksea dnrlag Hie war. 

Taasdam Jisr. 18. Laad waa amde npon oar atafboard 
boar tfaia amialag at 7 o'olock. Daring the fofaaeoa we 



SHIFTING tOP0AIL8 DRILL AT SEA. 10? 

drMed at Bbifliag topsails three tiroes. At the second time 
oiM eaptain of eadi top was sent to the berth deck ottt of the 
drill as if iiek, and at the iast time we were required to do 
it without any pettj^olBcer aloft in either top. It prored 
satisfaetorj in each case, as was evident by the pleased looks 
of oor ofltoers. We fee! confident of retaining oor korels. 

ITedneMlsy, Mar. 14^ 1866. We Cane to ancbor in the 
harlH^ of Mesalna at 10: 80 A. M. It is a rainy day with 
thttnder and lightning in tke afternoon. 

9)ridaif^ Metr. 16. Yesterday we took in coat ami also 
sand. To-day we were visiled by some high offieials Just at 
noon, keepii^ ns from oar dinner. We do not enjoy eating 
cold boiled riee and salt beef for any one, however noted be 
may be. We got under weigh at 2 P. M. and steered to ttie 
sottlhwanl. The Italian shore is studded with vl^iges, set 
upon Ae hillsides genernlly, and occasionally are groves of 
oHre and fig trees abont some old mansion, b«t not a forest 
tree was to be seen crowning the many hilltops. As a nat- 
oral conseqiienee the soil is washed into deep golehes with 
inclined planes at the <Nitlets, end these are again cnt and 
re<K»it nntil the whole face of the shore line as seen fltwi the 
Straite of Messina appears to l)e a confused medley of heaps 
of dirt, gravel, roeks, and bare leches. 

Saiwrdap^ Mar. 17. We have rounded the «'Toe of the 
Boot" and are steering east, bound for the Island of Candia, 
the ancient Crete. This afternoon I made me a cap for 
going on liberty and special mustering wear. We have a 
pair of canaries on board. With a qutll whistle and tin cup 
of water I inaugurated quite a bird concert with them. It 
was supposed they had lost their song as they only uttered 
an occaeional chirp. After hearing my prolonged trilling a 
few times firon a bidden position they almost split their lit- 
tle throats in trying to ontsing me. They thought they bad 



108 MT M>yiK6 UFK. 

•Qceeeded wheo I stopped, and they then tried to ootwig 
each other. No one shoired more intereet in the experiment 
than '^Old Ti." the Captain's large Newfoundland dog, a 
genius in his way. His full name is Tioonderoga, but he 
will answer to ''TIcon." and prefers ^^Ti/' He has b^n 
trained to carry his dinner in a small baslcet from the cabin 
pantry to the ^^manger/' (an enclosed iron-lined space in 
the extreme bows of the ship around the hawse-holes through 
which the chain cables or hawsers pass,) and after his meal 
Is finished to return his basket to the cabin waiter. He and 
the ship's cat are good fi lends, though his majesty ^^Tom" 
originally mistrusted his advances, it is said. A share of 
Ti's dinner placed near him was too tempting an oflfer for 
Tom to refuse, and they now often eat out of the same dish. 
Tl is sometimes put through his gymnasties by the Captain's 
Clerk and seems to enjoy it as well as the rest until the stick 
is held so high that he comes down upon the deck with smch 
force as to draw from liim a yelp of pain. While the decks 
were being washed one morning Ti wanted to go upon the 
topgallant forecastle, where he saw they had finished ; but 
the step-laddero were unshipped. He tried to go up- by a 
rope ladder used by us at such times, but could not, and he 
barked for help. We helped him up, and now he comes to 
me when he wants the same help, I being the first to under- 
stand his call. He usually secures a safe retreat upon the 
Boatswain's locker on the topgallant forecastle at the call to 
^^ Wash down the decks I" If caught below he often tries to 
climb without assistance and the men believe he will succeed 
4n time. 

Sunday^ Mar. 18, 1866. Land made on our port bow. 
We had the usual inspection at quarters, general inspection, 
and Divine Service in the forenoon, but no muster. I got 
the Bible Dictionary from the library and read up Jerusalem 



** BAKD A-POKT !*BBEAKER8 CXDEB THE LSE BOW V lOf 

lis we liope to be ellowed to go there from Joppadoriag our 
tovr of the M edtttenrnaeMi. The wted is nearly aft aad ire 
haTe ataddtngiMiii aet* 

Momdapi Mar. 19^ 1866. We were nakiag and takii^ 
in aail nearly all the ftrat wateh laat night. Thta noming 
we Idmd laiid in eight on onr starboard bow when oar watoh 
caow on deek at 4 o'cdoek, and at 10 A. M. we anehored in 
the harbor of Candia, on the nerthcm fonat of that leland. 
Snow eoveaa the tope of the nMMHitaina nearly half-way to 
the aea Unrth The orangea and iga heiw are the beet I have 
taaled, bnt they aak na high piteea for them. The ooatomea 
and gofornawnt are Tnrfcaah* Viaitora eanMon board na in 
laige nmnbers daring the afternoon. Tbia we favor aa it 
gtvm die people an idea of oor power aa a nation when they 
see andi laige gone on so email a veaeel^^ and they will be 
apt to treat onr conntrjnen and eonenle with greaier reapeet 
than haa recently been their wont. 

Tftmiapn Mmr. 20. I hare to-day finialMd a oonplete aoit 
of dothea that witi paaa muster for going aahove on Bbortyi^ 
and thoagh my fbrat trial ainee boyhood it ia aaid to oomenp 
to the Tanhee man^'-war's-man's idea of a natty tfl. We 
ehortencd cable at 6 P. If . ar;d eent op topgallant yaida 
ready for sea. At 7 o'doch the Captain caaM off in the 1st 
cvtier, the gig fetnrning with thtee iMn dronk. At i oTeloek 
we were standing out of the harbor boond f <Nr Smyrna. 

Wediieidsy, JTor. H. At8 A. M. we same to off Milo 
and took a pilot for Smyrna. At 4 P. M • we paseed n large 
city to the weat of oe, enppoaed to be Syra, the ancient 
Hermopolia. At aonaet a heavy gale set in, preceded by the 
switchtall fcremnnera all over the heavena. 

Thnradfl^, Mar. 32* ^^Bard a-poril — BraakerB wnder 
the le€ bowl" ahonted the lookoot f<Mward Jnet after mid- 
night, and the ahip came into the wind obedient to the hefan, 



110 MT ROVIKO LirE. 

cleaiifig the rocks by about twice her length only. A scene 
of apparent confusion began, the tails tapping Juid cracking 
like hage coachwhips, the watch below mshii^. on deck to 
aid without being called, and the men hurrying ftom one rape 
to another in obedience to orders to haul down and dew up 
tlie head sails, then to brail op the trysails. It is oa such 
occasiottstbat discipline and constant drill prm'e tlieir worth. 
A maintopsail sheet had parted in the early part of the atght, 
and allfioiigh its sail being furled may have caused tlie«yp 
to sag to leeward through a preponderance of head sail this 
made the ship swing more rapidly when the squaresails took 
aback, checking tlie speed at the same time. A timely hft 
from the propeller sent ns ahead when needed and we were 
out of danger. One old salt got off the old saying, ^^A miss 
is as good as a mile." Mr. Hitchcoek retorted, ^^ That's 
all right, bat in this case I prefer the mile to the Miss." By 
daylight we could have avoided it easily, but in a gale at 
n^ht it IS hot so etmj to distinguish between the normal cap 
of the waves and the spray of a breaker unless one expects 
or is warned of the probable presence of breakms. We are 
learning what a Levanter is. Topgallant yards wi^e sent 
down in the first wntch last night. This moming we found 
the ship was entering the Golf of Smyrna when we came on 
deck and the gale was still blowii^^. At 2 F. M. we had 
dropped both anchors In the harbor of Smyrna. I was lokl 
by Mr. Allyn to hold myself in readiness for boat duty as a 
sopeniumeraryin the 1st cotter. I have to appear at the 
gangway whenever that boat is called away, dressed in clean 
mustering cloHies and the ^* Tieonderoga" ribbon on my cap 
ready to step into the boat if needed 1o fill the place of any 
absent member of her crew, with liability to l»e called upon 
for the same duty in any boat. This excuses me from any 
dirty work on board the ship and may be either an isasy or 



*^AWAT ALL BOATS, ARMED AlO) EQUIPPED !" Ill 

hard work for me aooording to whether not any, or more 
than one boat is f^hortrbanded. 

Friday^ Mar. 28, 1866. We are having a warm an<l 
pleasant day after the storm. The launches were lowered 
and their sailing qnalities tested. To-day the Yeoman left 
a lantern burning in the storeroom while he went cm deek and 
when he retnmed found a partition on fire. It was quickly 
extinguished by help of some of the mess cooks without any 
general alarm, but of course had to be reported and investi- 
gated. He fears a courtmartial for criminal carelessness. 

Saturday J Mar. 24. The T. Warded Berwick, Maine, 
sailed to-day for New York with our letters. For our drill 
this forenoon we bad '^Away all boats, armed and equipped." 
The boats* howitEers were lowered into the lannchea, marines 
filled the stemsheets of the boats, and we were ezerctsdd at 
sailing by signal from the ship. I was a launchman for the 
day. On our return I was ordered to change to a working 
suit and go into the fore passage and yeoman-s storeroom to 
help him repair damages. He showed me where things were 
stowed, expecting nothing short of being disrated and that I 
had already been selected to take his place. He feels badly 
over tlie mishap, and we are all sorry for him. 

Sunday^ Mar. 25. Three coal lighiers came alongside as 
we went to quarters and were sent away till to-morrow. It 
is said that we are within an hour's ride of the ruins of the 
Chtircb of Ephesus, ^ 'where Paul once preached." Perhaps 
Paul may have preached at the site where the church now in 
ruins was afterward built, but it does not seem probable to 
me that the Christians had become powerful enough to erect 
so extensive a structure in his day as tliese ruins are said tb 
indicate. Upon a hill-top just back of the city are the mins 
of an immense castle, and beyond these, on the other riope, 
are the church ruins. On the near slope, within the precincts 



112 MY Eovivo un. 

of tlie city are aevend MoBlem oemeteries, with their groves 
of dark evergreen moaming cypreM tree*. Within the city 
are several mosques with tail, slim towers, called minarets, 
having one or more stories of balconies surronnding them, 
from which the maeszin call the f sithf al to prayer ; also one 
ca^iedral shaped building and its tower, but nearly, if not 
quite, all other buildings are flat roofed. It is tantaliaing 
to be so near to such objects of interest and to be unable to 
examine them. The boats' crews report the streets infested 
by beggars ; men and one woman seen were entirely naked, 
squatting by the sides of buildings, their bodies covered with 
disgusting sores. 

Jfoncfay, Jfar. 86^ 1866. We saw cars running atoog 
the beach to the north of the city. Engineers and firemen 
obtain great wages on this railroad, which depends entirely 
upon Englishmen and Americans for train hands. For that 
reason no liberty will be given here, though the men are too 
disgusted with what has been seen to care to go on liberty. 
Filth fills the streets and foul smells the air, the l)Qats' crews 
tell us. Most of them refuse to drink the liquor there. A 
water boat came olf to us this morning but was sent away. 
That condensed from our steam is preferred as safer to use. 
We received a visit from some distinguished naval officers, 
judging by the amount of tinsel on their uniforms, and we 
exercised with our after pivot gun for their edification. A 
salute as they left the side determined the rank of the senior 
one to be that of a Captain by the number of guns given to 
4ilm. A Turkish sailing frigate returned our salute. This 
afternoon. the Turks are loading us with 75 tons of coal, we 
looking on. We are also taking in wood^ — large, crooked, 
and ant eaten. I picked out a stidc with a pretty lively nest 
of ants in it and took it to the mast. It was ordered to be 
thrown overboard and a close watch kept for any more such, 



GR£EK*AKD-€OLD BILL6IDE8. ATHEK6. 118 

an oflScer standiog by to reject the load if any more were 
found. Such vieitora would aoon have riddled our wooden 
walla. 

Tuesday^ Mar. 27^ 1666. We received more coal in tbe 
forenoon. Though the wind became fresh with rain we let 
go from the mooring buoy and rode with a short range of 
chain by a single anchor until the coal was in and then up 
anchor and cleaned ship as we steamed out of port. While 
on topsail yai*d lookout I had a fine view of a whole side of 
a range of hills with groves of orange trees covered almos^. 
completely with fruit which with the shining leaves painted 
the whole range in mottled green and gold, the gold predom- 
inating. Nothing yet seen could compare with it. A New 
Kngland apple orchard in full bloom is a beautiful sight, but 
there are spaces between the trees and the coloring is not so 
vividly striking, nor so strongly in contrast with the barren 
desolation of the adjacent country. 

WednestJaif^ Mar. 26. We repeatetl yesterday's cleaning 
ship this forenoon and at 1 P. M. anchored at Pireus, the 
seaport of Athens. We saluted the Gi-eek fag, and also the 
French Admiral, receiving Ealntes in return. We find here 
Knglish, French, and Russian line-of-battle-shifHS, (74 to 100 
gun»,) with Austrian, French, Greek, Italian, and Turkish 
frigates, (30 to 50 guns,) and sloops-of-war, (ships of 20 
guns.) The most noticeable things in the harbor are the 
small sail boats plying about the ship while waiting for the 
passengers they had brought to visit us. — 
There is a lateen sail forward like those at 
Lisbon on page 87. The foot of the yard 
is brought to the stem-post as there, but the 
sail is split Just forward of the mast to form 
a Jib and mainsail on the same yard. At j^ hawpt bio* 
the stem a mast and boom are steppe<l for a triangular sail 




114 MX BOVIKG LIFK. 

the whole forming a very handy style of yacht rig that one 
person can handle readily. Upon their bows are the names 
of noted ancient Greeks in Greek letters, as-AlKOYPFOS « 
liPOMHeEYa, (Litnirgus, Prometheos.) 

Thujmiay^ Mar. 29, 1866. I went lo the landing in the 
Ist catter to land some of oar officers, but could not step 
ashore. The men-o'-war of other nations exercise at send- 
ing down topgallant yards and masts at night, and sending 
them up again in the morning. Lnekily we have long top- 
masts, (topmast and topgallant masts in one stick) and are 
thus free from the nonsensical part of the exercise. Only 
boats and topgallant yards go up and down with the ensign 
of our ship. Our boats are hoisted to the davits, the top- 
gallant yards tripped for lowering, and the ensign and day 
pennant hauled down in unison with all the other men-o'-w^r 
in port at sunset when a signal is given by the ship selected 
to lead. At 8 A. M. boats are lowered, topgallant yards go 
np with the ensign, the stop of the day pennant is broken, 
and the small night pennant hauled down simultaneously 
with the others. Being so much smaller and our exercise 
simpler than theirs there is no rivalry between us and them. 
We finish our work quickly and then give our sympathy for 
the success of the English ship. We cannot compete with 
them in stae of ship but when they visit us they stare at our 
guns in wonder. The English 100-gnn ship is the Oihraltar. 
Several of her crew have been aboard us visiting, and had a 
^^jolly time" treating our men with liquor they brought with 
them. The Austrian aud Italian ships all have their yards 
a-cockbiil, so I suppose it is Judas-Day with them. The 
starboard yardarms of the fore and misxenmasts, and poet 
yardarms (^f the main are raised to an angle of 45 ^ and the 
ensign at half-mast as an expression of sympathy with the 
dismay and grief of the disciples at the betrayal of Christ 



JCDASDAT. RtllMS OP THE ACROFOLie. 115 

b; Jadae. This port ie inteDselJ English. Oue might im- 
agine it an EDglisb colony were it not for the Grecian flag 
flying from the frigate and the namee given the boats. Tlie 
building atone need in the town of I^i-eus shows that this is 
a limestone country. Very little maible seems to be need at 
the present time. There is a pablic square with trees and 
shrubbery, showing that they would grow if planted ; but on 
every hand are naked hills with white rocks cropping ont. 

Friday^ Mar. 30. Being at work aloft 1 had a 6ne view 
of the country from our masthead. Eight miles back of 
the town are the ruins of the Acropolis, which 1 give below, 
I see no prospect of getting a nearer view. 



BDINS OV THB MSOFOUS, AnXMI. 

PireuB is in a little, land-locked cove southwest of the 
ancient city of Athens, of wbicli it was the seaport, as it is 
now of the present capital of Greece, which ie west of the 
ancient city and at the edge of an extensive plain dotted 
with groves of trees. Athens has a population of 28,00(K 



116 MY KOVING LIFE. 

To-day is Good Friday and all tiie men-o'-war of Catholic 
naiioDs still have their yards a-cockbill and the French A^r 
miral fires one of his heaviest guns every hour. We sent np 
to'gaiiant yards and loosed sails to dry with the OibraUar^ 
neither of us taking any notice of the day. 

Saturday, Mar. 31, 1866. The French Admiral visite<l 
us Jpst before noon and we gave him a salute on leaving the 
jdiip. At 12 noon all the Catholic ships squared yards and 
the Italia fired a salute of 21 guns. After dinner we took 
several oflScers on board the Russian frigate iTGPeCBhTZ, 
translated by our men as N^[>ercrUZy though the first letter 
of the name upon her stern is the Greek ^^P' and the third 
the Greek ^^ R." Perhaps my translation may be as free as 
that, but I thought it might answer for Peter the Great. It 
was built at New York by the same firm that built the U. S. 
S. Brooklyn, of the West Gulf Squadron. The Russian ship 
carries fifty 42'Sf throwing ronud shot of seven inches in 
diameter. The Italia is an armored frigate of thirty gucs 
on her main deck. The 4 1-2 to 5 inch armor plates extend 
three feet above the water line her whole length, but abov^ 
that height only from the foremast to the mizzenmast, leav- 
jag five guns of a side without other protecticm than the 
wooden bulwarks. They both have vertical prows without 
projecting cutwater. 

Monday, April 2. We received |4 of our grog-ration 
money and each put in $1 of it for luxuries for the mess, as 
potatoes and onions. There was a great hue and cry this 
afternoon thai llie Captain's dinner had been atoleUf and all 
the galley and officers' cooks and stewards were put on the 
black-list on that account. It developed, however, tliat the 
Captain's Steward had carried the dinner aft without any one 
noticing it and had then gone ashore for something lacking 
for that special occasion. Being delayed, the dinner was 



LEAVE ATBEKS. ACTIKG SHIP'S COOK AGAIK. U? 

missiDg. Upon his return tbiDgs were righted^ with much 
jollification at the galley and probable relief at the cabin aa 
the Captain had a gentleman and lady to dine with him. 

Tuesday, AprU 3\ 1866. We left the port of Alliens at 
H A« M. At 4 P. M. the snowy hills of Candia were seen, 
and when I came from lookout at midnight we had passed a 
large town on the sontbem coast, (perhaps old Caenopolis,) 
and the land was trending to the northward, ilkiatniting the 
small extent of thia noted country. 

Wednesday, April 4. This morning we fonnd the sun on 
our right hand and we were making good time for Trieste, 
Austria. We are scraping the cost of paint from oar gun 
carriages and giving them a coat of fancy blacking that will 
make them look like a dandy's l*oot just from the hands of 
his bootblack ; a monkey would grin at his face m the gqna 
now« A little land bird is flying about the deck this noon, 
giving pleasure to every one by bis presence, all anxious to 
make friends with him. Several low isUnds are upon oar 
starboard bow covered with shmbe of some sort. We are 
hardly up to Zante yet, still the shrubs may be grape vinea 
of the variety bearing the seedless grapes called Zante car- 
rants. The days begin to grow warm, the nights are still 
quite chilly. 

Friday, April 6. I signed accounts with 171.81 due me 
on the Paymaster's books. They tell me the bounty is a 
separate account, bo that my signing this pay account can 
not affect my claim for the installment of bounty due Feb. 
27, last. We drilled with muekets in the forenoon. At 5 
P. M. We were passing islands on both sides and I am told 
we will continue to do so until we reach oar port. The okl 
Boatswain had us all up in the top to teach ns how to set the 
to'gallant stnddingsails but did not get them set to satisfy 
bim before they were ordered taken in. If another ship had 



118 MT Bovnie live. 

been in sight tliey would have gone ont quickly enough^ but 
the two captains of the top rather resented the sending of 
the boatswain aloft to teach even the apprentices so simple 
a thing as setting a sail. It was done as a reproof to them 
for an accidental delay in setting the sail. 

Saturday^ April 7, 1866. While we were cleaning 6hip 
for entering port this forenoon I was ordered to the ship's 
cook's duty again ; he had cat his thumb open and was put 
on the sick list. Only a few days ago I had an application 
from the Paymaster's Steward to help him while his ^^Jack- 
o'-the-Dust" was sick, but begged off on tlie ground that any 
one could do that work, and my topmates were feeling that 
they were doing more than their share of work through my 
details to do work excusing me from deck duty. With the 
help of Woods, my top-captain I got off' then, but at this 
time the ship's cook carried the matter to the mast and we 
had to give in. Woods then wanted to have me stand watch 
at night when on special duty, repeating the complaints of 
the topmates that 1 didn't do deck duty more than half the 
time. He was told he could have me when not otherwise 
employed or that I would be made a supernumerary, and be 
excused from deck duty altogether. The growlers, cooled 
down at that. 

Sunday^ April 8. We arrived at Trieste at 7 : 30 A, M. 
and made fast to a mooring buoy. At quarters we were all 
surprised to see the Yeoman take a place as one of the crew 
of the howizter in our division, evidently as a punishment 
/or bis carelessness of a while ago causing a fire. We are 
all glad he is to be let off with a simple blacklist of extra 
duty, for the men all like him. We had many visitors of a 
good class on board during the afternoon. 

Monday^ April 9. I am at work on deck again. Grog 
ration money was served out to us in the morning, giving us 



TRIESTE. AKOTHEH GROWL AKD ITS RE8€LT. 1 19 

epcnding money and for mess parchates. All hands are at 
work scraping spars and masts. Although the oldest man 
in the top and almost the oldest man in the ship Woods sent 
me to commence scraping at the track while the boys were 
set to scraping the booms upon the yards. The Boatswain 
gave Woods a raking down for doing so, though I had said 
nothing about it to any one. In fact I had offered to do it 
to shame the growlers if possible. It worked well« for Mr. 
Briscoe learned who the growlers were and they got their fiH 
of similar ^^soft billets." We were overran with visitors. 
Seventeen men went ashore on liberty this morning. 

Tuesday^ AprU 10^ 1866. It was so rainy that our ham* 
mocks were triced up to the beams overhead till 1(^ o'clock 
before stowing in the nettings and we were allowed to stay 
below after all hands had done washing clothes in the fresh 
water caught in the awnings. While below we discussed the 
weight of our guns and the solid round shot thrown by the 
different calibers of our navy smoothbore guns, many ques- 
tions having been asked by our visitors concerning other gun 
calibers than we carry. 1 made calculations foir the boys an4 
gave them the following list, taking our old VI4nch 32 pdr. 
as a basis, that being a standard gun in European navies :* 

JX-inch acuta! 108, nominal 100. weight of gun 4 1-2 tons. 
X-inch 148, 150. 
Xl-inch 197, 200. 8 

XV-inch 499, 500. 25 

XX-inch "1277, 1125. 50 

The 32-pound shot is made on an allowance for windage, 
or inequalities in casting, consequently the larger calibers, 
requiring no more windage the actual weights would overran 
these figures probably. Our present Vl-inch gun is a rifle, 
throwing a 100 pound conical shot or shell quite effectively. 

Wednesday^ April II. It is fair again. We are painting 



120 MT ROVING LIFE. 

the ship's bulwarks and other parts on the spar deck. I had 
a small brusli to paint the blocks about the rigging through 
which the ropes led, Mr. Alljn watching me until he saw 1 
was doing it without daubing the ropes. 1 expected to hear 
at supper time ^^Another soft billet for Stuart/' but Kane, 
the boss growler was dumb. He had been given a bucket 
of coal tar with a brush to paint the anchors, manger, and 
the range of cable that was on deck. Boatswain Briscoe at 
bis elbow to encourage him as only an old boatswain can. 
We notice a change in the rig of the small fishing boats, lug 
sails being used hei*e in place of lateen. I went to the land- 
ing place in the 1st cutter twice this afternoon. Several 
men came on board trying to ship. The liberty men have 
all come oflf in good order and well satisfied ^ith their trip. 
They report the streets clean, the houses orderly, the liquor 
good and cheap, and the police very kind and indulgent. 

Thursday^ April 12^ 1866. 1 was given liberty ashore 
with $8 in my pocket out of my wages. 1 found many nice 
residences with terraced gardens and shrubbery upon exten- 
sive lawns. Trieste covers a large space of hilly ground 
around the sides of the bay. It is the principal seaport of 
Austria and has a population of 108,000. Railroad<« con- 
nect it with Vienna, Venice, and other places. Leaving my 
mates to their own ideas of enjoyment I strolled about the 
city streets and took a leisurely survey of the fine buildings, 
the strange trees and flowers in the well kept gardens, the 
fountains with their artistically arranged masses of rock- 
work, the statues and empty square which was crowded with 
market tents when I came ashore in the morning. All of 
the shopkeepers were very obliging, and some ladies were of 
great assistance to me, understanding what I wanted by my 
signs and putting my signs into German words. I bought a 
number of articles not procurable on board the ship at any 



TRIESTE. ASHORE ON LIBERTY. CURIOUS SIGHTS. 121 

price and others that would have cost twice the money if I 
got them out of the Paymaster's stores. There weriB sights 
very carioas to me. At one time we saw two women haul- 
ing and two others pushing a long, low wagon loaded with 
new unpainted firkins or tubs, while a man (?) walked at 
the side of the load, one hand resting on the load as if he 
were steadying it, exerting no force in getting the wagon on. 
We longed to shake him. The women had rosy cheeks, bare 
arms, legs and feet, the full round skirts coming only a little 
below the knee, and they looked folly as strong and more 
self-reliant than the man. At another time we saw a single 
ox in a complete horae's harness except headstall and reins, 
between the thills of a small wickerwork frame on four little 
wheebarix>w-sized wheels, the driver sitting on the front of 
the body of the wagon guiding the ox murh as ox teamsters 
of New £ngland would. A woman was <lriving to market a 
donkey loaded with quite sin assortment of 
country produce and his own dinner, the 
woman balancing a large, fiat bucket upon 
her head and having a smaller basket in each 
of her hands. I returned to the ship at sun-^ Gotoc to Market. 
set, the only one to do so. I was well pleased with my tramp 
and purchases, though very tired. Mr. Allyn was at the 
gangway as I reported and asked what I had in my hand — a 
small dressing case with spaces for writing materials. The 
marine didn't search me for concealed liquor, for ^^Thatwill 
do, go forward," was my order. He had at last tested me. 
Some others came off at 9 P. M. 

Friday^ April 13, 1866. Another lot of men were sent 
on liberty although the time of the others had not expired. 
Mr. Allyn told them that reports of the actions of those yet 
ashore was so good he let them go, but he wanted all hands 
aboard the ship early Sunday morning. Our mess i^ook was 




Its 



to go aad I gvrr ap niy ■ e c oad daj aoh o re to take his 
vofk tkrt lie Bigkt 90, as tiw was to be the laat chance at 
thb port. 

SiOmrdag^ JprU 14. I gave the bo^ omt of wty akouaes 
thift munmg, adduig a can of fieah be^ to the maal poik, 
potatoes, aad onions in the niztnre. The men have a dis- 
taste for the canned beef as asnaflj pieaented then, bat the 
enptj kettle shoved the fanlt la J not in the beef . I had no 
part in boljstoning the spar de^, bnt instead had m j mess 
chest lid to iioijBtone and inside of chest to aerab on that 
deck while it was wet and to help holjstone the berth deck 
after breakfast. In the nidBt of the latter I was called to 
retooch the brightwork of nj fellow handspikeman, who was 
ashore oa liberty. I, and no one else, most do that bright- 
work when he is abseot or sick, as he moat do for me under 
like etrcomstances, an 1 the system of stationing men abont 
a nian-o*-war seems to be so perfect that It rarely happens 
that bolfi aie absent at the same time. Work on the arma- 
ment of the ship takes precedence, and unless a man is at 
the wheel or oo kwkout brightwork must be attended to at 
ooce. We took in water in the afternoon and bent the light 
anils, so I suppose we are to go to sea by Monday if the men 
are off from liberty. Some oi the men haTe come oft noisy, 
bnt only one has gotten into the lockup, his offense being 
^^erazy drunk'* and smashing things. 

Sunday, AfrU 15. The mess cook came off last night, 
relieving me to go to deck doty again. I was sent in the 
drd cutter to tow the water boat ashore to the little bay back 
of the fort at Light House Point We passed two Austrian 
fr' gates that were being plated with iron I Judge to be not 
over five inches thidt They have the new plow-pointed bow 
for ramming other ships. The broadside ports are narrow, 
only half the width of the height, giving a very small arc 



LIBBRTy HEK BBOdGHT OFF. BAIL FOR MESSINA. 123 

of tnining reqairiog tbem to fight broadeide to tlie enemy. 
The casemate on the forecastle pierced for two gone has a 
square, neariy vertical face on it« three sides, with but one 
side-port for broadside firing, bo that but half her guns can !■« 
ased at a sit^le eoemy. They were about the size of an old 
Btyte 44-giin frigate. We think one of onr monitors would 
sink tbem in short order. A heavy squ^I came up at noon 
and forced us to pay out chain and let go an anchor. After 
it cleared np we found the moantains in the interior were all 
white with snow. Several sailing resaele to(A advantage of 
the favorable direction of the wind to put to sea. 

Monday, April 16, 1866. The squall of yesterday con- 
tinoed as a decent gale that held on till this morning. The 
police brought off four of our men that lad forgotten to re- 
turn, two being petty officers. We got under weigh at 1 P. 
M., leaving Samuel Courtney, the Engineer's Steward on 
shore. He had brought to the boat a part of tbe stores for 
their mess and had returned for mi^re, but could not be found 
by the police up to the time of onr soiling. We had a fair 
wind and set sll sail. While at supper tbe wind shifted ami 
we had to rush on deck to furl everything at once. 

Tuesday, April 17. At 11 A. U. while exercising at 
sending down topsail yards we were 
in sight of a grunp of small, rocky 
islands. Oneof them wagacurious 
pyramidal' shaped rock rising bold- 
ly out of the water, quile r^nlar 

in ontline at a distance, bat losing ' \ 

itsregularilyaswenearedit, when ' 

it assumed a pear shape, giving it ■■■ ■<X'* pomo. 
its name of ■' FOMO." Onr sending down topsail yards as 
an exercise lengthened to an all day's Job, for when we got tbe 
fore topsail yard on deck we found it needed many repairs 



124 MT KOVINO LIFE. 

and alterations to preserve the strength required for safety 
and at the same time to enable ns to do the work qaickly at 
exercising with the fleet. At 4 P. M. the Italian coast was 
in sight. .While we were at Trieste Old Ti concluded that 
be was entitled to liberty as well as the rest, and not being 
allowed to go into the boat with the men went to the open 
port of the pivot gun and waited until the boats shoved off, 
then jumped overboard and followed them to the landing. 
He returned at <inndown for his supper and bed. Shimming 
to the grating of the starboard gangway ladder he called for 
sonie one to help him out of the water, walked up the steps 
and reported himself to the officer of the deck by a single 
sharp bark. *'A11 right, go forward, Ti," and he gravely- 
walked forward shaking the water from his shaggy coat with 
a vigor that called for the use of a dry swab on the part of 
the maintopman deck sweeper. That official did the duty 
gladly fot* Ti is a favorite with everybody. 

Wednesday^ April 18^ 1866. This morning we are run- 
ning along a flat coast with towns aud single houses in view 
at intervals as we pass. A lighthouse is on the extremity 
of a long, narrow neck of land which I suppose to be the east 
cape of the Gulf of Tarentum. We exercised with topsail 
and topgallant yards again today, this time more to the sat- 
isfaction of all hands. We are following the sun. around, 
crossing the Gulf of Tarentum. After supper all hands had 
musket or Sharp's rifle drill, the marines at the bayonet drill. 
We have an idea that we are to meet the fleet shortly from 
the amoiant of drill of all sorts we are getting. We are doing 
our best to perfect ourselves so as to make a good showing 
whenever the trial with the fleet occurs. A man-o'-war's 
crew take pride in the smartness of their ship, and brag all 
they can. In order to be able to brag they will work hai*d, 
and with such officers as we have on board the Ticonderoga 



TBB APHIBAL AT PALEBMO. 125 

the; will work cheerfully to sccomplisb the taeke eet t&em. 
Though eeemingl; nnneceesai^ &t the time, these drills give 
the taea coDfidence in themselves and the ability to ireetary 
emergency or peril ander the guidance of their officers. 

Thvtsdag, AprU 19, 1866. At 6 A. H. Ht. Etna was in 
eight with its mantle of snow. At iioon we were id the best 
position for a good view and I spent my noon hour sketching 
it. I give below a home>made cut of it TrcHn my sketch. 



MooirrBTitA, nu>M thb bas*. 

We are passing scenes familiar from onr former pass age of 
the Straits of Messina. The theu leafless trees have assumed 
a greener aspect and tbongb the hills still look bnre aa then 
the slopes are banning tCsbow the fcreen of yoong grass. 
We anchored at Messina at 1 : 30 P. M., bnt got np anchor 
at & : 30 for Palermo. The vicinity of Messina is green at 
all points with villas, groves, and terraced gardens upon the 
ateep hillsides back of the city and extending high u[- on the 
mountain's side. We skirted the northern shore of Sicily 
daring Ibe night. 

Friday, April 20. We dropped andior in the harbor of 
Palermo at 8 o'clock this morning and foond the Colorado 
with a broken shaft. Admiral Goldsborough's orders are 
that we siul to-morrow for Marseilles to secure a dry dock 
for her repairs. Very good ripe cherries are ofllered along- 
side at ten cents a quart. Our boat was at the landing pkce 



126 MT SOYIHG LirS. 

several times to-day but no one was allowed to step ashore. 
They are making extensive repairs at the landing and will 
have a fine, substantial thing when finished. We find here 
the same honey-combed, ruinous walls shutting out approach 
from the sea except at one or more landings guarded by a 
fort or forts and sentry at the landing. Palermo is enclosed 
by high, steep mountains except on the side next the sea. 
From our anchorage the peaks and tops of the ridges appear 
to be destitute of trees, though in the city and suburbs they 
arre to be seen in all directions. 

Saturday^ AprU 21^ 1866. Our holystonings hare woru 
our decks down to the heads of the spikes and our gang 
of earpenters are driving them in farther and capping them 
sgain with round, wafer-shaped wooden plugs. We sailed 
this morning for Marseilles with orders to use all dispatch 
and tfecnre a dry dock for the Colorado. Fortunately we 
are down to the anthracite coal put aboai-d at Philadelphia, 
worth mncb more than its weight of the soft English coal to 
be obtained here, much of it in a state of dust. It is nearly 
six months since I heard from home and I had hoped to get 
letters whenever we met the Admiral but am disappointed 
again. A fresh breeze hardly in our favor compels us to 
frequently set and furl sails at eacb slight veeriug of wind. 
The 75 revolutions ordered are reduced to 45, as the boilers 
leak so badly under the higher pressure that wooden spiles 
liave to be used. Since lea\ing home we have been running 
from place to place with little rest, and probably the boilers 
had seen hard service in the South Atlantic Squadron during 
the war without much repairing when the ship was fitted out 
for this cruise. At any rate repairs seem to give the Engi- 
neer's crew nearly constant employment while in port. 

Sunday J April 22, Coming on watch and on lookout at 
4 A. M. I found a stiff head wind blowing and the spray 



WALKED THE DECK ALL NIGHT. MARSEILLES. 127 

dashing over the ship's bows, wetting me through at once. 
We made land on the easieoast of Sardinia at 9 A. M. As 
the gale increased we sent down toi>galiant yards. At 1 : oO 
we began to make sail again and brought the revolutions up 
to 50. At 6 P. M. we were heading for the Straits of Bon- 
facio, between Sardinia and Corsica. We entered them at 

7 and at 8 P. M. were through and heading our course. At 
sundown the wind went down and when we came out of the 
straits we were in a smooth sea under the lee of Corsica^ 
We did some tall rolling as we entered the straits and I saw 
Lt. Snell, our Navigation Officer, (died in 1876) ^^settling 
.accounts with Neptune," therefore I am not the only one on 

board habitually running in debt to his ungracious majesty. 
Oapt. Steadman was on the to'gallant forecastle taking the 
measurements with him for guiding our course, and getting 
no answer to a question glanced at him and proceeded in the 
sighting alone. On getting a clean bill Mr. Snell straight- 
ened up and went to sighting again. The Tiamderoga has 
a habit of plunging deeply into au incoming sea and of then 
rising swiftly to a great height and bringing to view several 
feet of her forefoot. This gives to a susceptible person an 
unconquerable desire to bend low over the bow to »ee how it 
looks down there. 

Monday^ April 23^ 1866. We are having a fine, warm 
day. We exercised at general quarters au hour in the fore- 
noon, then all hands scrubbed blankets, mattress covers and 
clothes, at the same time tricing our mattresses to the rigging 
to air them. We washed down the decks in the afternoon. 
I have had a severe headache all day. 

Tuesday^ April 24. I went to the doctor and had my ears 
stuffed with laudanum last night to little perceptible benefit, 
^nd walked the deck all night with the pain in my head. At 

8 A. M. we moored ship in the rain at Marseilles. 



128 MT aomio ufb. 

Wednesday^ April 25, 1866. The Frenchmen are liUiog 
U6 with ooftl. From oor ftncborage near the coal hoaaes we 
can aec acaroely anything of the city, we being in a small 
inlet to the left of the main entranee to the harbor. What 
has been a rare tight with ns heretofore is the ase of horses 
and of carriages lilce oar own at home. We have been bosy 
with repairs on oar rigging white tlie Frenchmen were coal- 
ing, and as tliey did not finish till after dark we were ordered 
to give the ded^s a sweeping and to tilm in. 

Tkutmiay, AprU 26. We cleaned ship in the forenoon 
and pat to sea at noon. A mail came aboard bat still not a 
thing for me. On looking aroond as we came out of the, 
Bay of Marseilles I coald not help remarking how great the 
convolsions of nature were that formed the bay. The dip 
of the strata on the main land as shown in exposed places 
appeared to be/rom the shore, while the strata of the many 
rocky islands have dips as Tarioos as themselves. Many of 
these islands are fortified, and at the water's edge are worn 
into blnffs with many gallies and caves. 

JPrtdof , April 27. We sighted Corsica on the port bow 
at 3 : 30 A. M. At noon we were heading in for the straits 
with snow visible apon the Corsican ridges while the hills of 
Sardinia, less high at this point, were free from the white 
mantle of winter. We came oat from the straits at 4 P. M. 

Sunday, April 29. We dropped anchor in Palermo this 
morning at half*past four, a fall moon enabling as to run in. 
We mastered in white frocks and white cap-covers for the 
first time this spring. Whenever white is worn daring the 
day a ch inge to Mae flannel frocks and bine cloth trousers 
is oider^ at the sapper hour. A large number of visitors 
were on board daring the afternoon. 

Monday, April SO. I bear that an American ship lying 
in port is ready to sail and will carry a mail for us ; also that 



THE FLEET SAILS FOR TOULON. OUR MENAGERIE. 1 20 

the Kearmrge has retarned to Lisbon from the African coast 
with the lose of four oflSoers and ten men by the fever. I 
finished turning a pair of cloth tronsera that had become 
threadl)are; for increased prices for Paymaster's clothing 
compels ns to economize in order not to ran in debt to the 
Government, especially those of us who have assigned half- 
pay to oar families at home. 

Tuesday, May 1, 1666. Palermo is said to have 186,000 
inhabitants. One can hardly imagine where they all live. 
It is true the city is'bnilt upon a series of hypothennses to' 
a sea level of the earth's surface and I am told that in the 
lower portions of the city they are packed like sardines, bat 
in the more elevated portions much space is given to gardens 
and terraced lawns. The city has considerable commerce 
in fruits. 1 understand that much of the brimstone we have 
burnt durii^ tlie past four years has come from their Etna 
furnace. Small, apparently wild strawberries vers aboard 
for sale this morning. To-day we have hauled the sheet-an- 
chor chain on deck in order to clean and whitewash the chain 
locker. The fore passage was given me with another man 
to clean and whitewash. In the afternoon we rove studding- 
sail gear and got ready for sea after supper. 

Wednesday, May 2. We got up anchor with the Colorado 
and Frolic at 7 A. M., making sail at once, though the sails 
were of little account until we gained an offing where a stiff 
breeze and a heavy swell were found, making me seasick but 
driving us along at a One rate. Steam was shut off at 10 
A. M. We have on board a pair of W^llAchian sheep, and 
a flock of turkeys, chickens, and even doves. The gobblers 
cannot even agree to disagree ; either of them giving chal- 
lenge a general rampus occurs at once. The sheep stand on 
their dignity at all times and woe befalls either quadruped 
or biped presuming to venture within the circuit of the ropea 



130 BIT ROYIKO LIFE. 

by which they were fastened under the topgallant forecastle. 
When they first came aboard Ti was delighted. He thought 
they would make him pretty playmates and commenced to 
caper and Jbark in front of them, evidently thinking from the 
close attention they gave that they appreciated his effort to 
please them. Getting a sidelong butt be incontinently left, 
kl-yi.iDg ID moBt earnest fashion. Ever since then be has 
passed them with a gix>wl and set teeth. A stamp of a foot 
and bowed head is an effective warning to him. The little 
Frolic has to use steam to keep her station although we are- 
making only 7 1-2 knots. The Colorado is almost as steady 
on the water as in port, but we are showing off with some 
of our usual ^ Aground and lofty tumblingt" taking occasionak 
seas over either gangway. 

Thursday ^ May 3, 1866. A light wind, a smoother sea, 
and a pleasant day greet us. It is really cheering to be so 
near to the other vessels of a fleet as to be able to exchange 
greeting even by signal. The Admiral salutes ttie Captain's 
guests, the officers each other by waving handkerchiefs, and 
the men recognize acquaintances by a stealthy swing of the 
cap. But thei*e are other signals flying. Little flags from 
the Colorado's mizzen topsail yardarm tell us to prepare to 
^'shift topsails." The tussle with the flagship's topmen is on 
fgain. Of course the TUxmderoga's foretop beat as usual, 
but the maintopmen, although beating their opponent's tops 
by a few seconds were so far behind their usual record as to 
be booked for extra drill. The foretopsail was shifted, thf^ 
sail set and the topgallantsail set above it in 9 1-2 minutes. 
yCe bad musket drill after supper. 

Friday y May 4. It was so nearly calm this morning that 
the bows of the fleet pointed in different directions. There 
was a slight sprinkle of rain at 9 A. M., after which the sun 
oame out hot. We broke out the hold (hoisted everything 



TI AND THE LIITLE BIRDS. 131 

Dpon deck) in order to thoroughly clean and whitewash it. 
While washing decks this morning we caught a smsll land 
bird about the sixe of a robin and the color of a partridge. 
It had been flying about the ship all day yesterday. There 
is a flock of another kind visiting us this afternoon, making 
themselves at home everywhere, but particularly about the 
quarter deck amusing themselves and catching flies. Kitty 
amused himself forward watching and catching them, but Ti 
took to the quarter deck for some sport with them. A kind 
hand froip the cabin had scattered bread crumbs and stood 
watching them. Ti would follow a bunch of them and put 
his nose or one of his great paws suddenly upon the spot 
wbei« they had been, but were not, for they would use their 
wings to get just without his reach. A handful of crumbs 
had attracted a busy bunch of birds. Ti lay down there 
with his fore paws outstretched upon each side of the heap 
and remained motionless except for the hairs upon the tip 
of his bushy tail. They would sidle up to him turning their 
little heads saucily to examine him as to bis intentions, and 
finding no harm came to the one lighting upon the top of hi«i 
bead gathered in to renew their feast. Then came the time 
for which he had waited. One great paw would swing over 
and lightly touch the spot. Ti*s tail would then thrash the 
deck at a lively tattoo and lifting his head he would look at 
the watchers with mouth open and tongue hanging at one 
side in a jolly dog-laugh at the success of his joke. These 
birds were yellow breasted, with blue heads, slate-colored 
backs and wings, three white stripes on wings when open, 
and the outer tail feathers also white. The tail was three 
inches long, legs nearly the same, body slim and not over 
one-and-a-half inches long when picked. They appeared to 
be half starved. A schooner has been heading most of the 
time as if her course should be across our bows, bat with us 



132 HT BOTIK6 LIFE. 

has been beading every way during tbe^day. The Frolic is 
practicing at a target witb poor saccesa notwithstanding the 
dead calm. One of onr ladders gave way to-day with a ma- 
rine on it, bis head striking upon a bundle of canvas in the 
hold, wrenching his back' and otherwise injuring him; the 
canvas being under the open hatch at that moment probably 
saved his life, it breaking the ioree of his fall. A boat was 
sent to the Admiral after supper. 

Saturday J May 5, 1866. Last night I had to call for 
help in my watch below, my ear paining me sa excessively. 
T^he doctor found my head bathed in cold perspiration and 
quivering with the pain which was ^^dear inside,'' I told him. 
He ordered a flaxseed poultice outside with a morphine and 
aconite mixture internally. By midnight it began to feel 
easier and at 12 : 30, my watch being on deck, I was getting 
uuconsciolis when a shipmate shook me and made me turn 
out not knowing that I was on the sick list. At the time it 
seemed to me that I was composed of two persons, and not 
knowing which of the two be wanted or which of them was 
me 1 turned out, giving some curious answers to him. He 
somehow found 1 was on the sick list and left me after he 
had helped me into my hammock again. Had I been over- 
(^leeping and not excused bis persistence in thoroughly wak- 
ing me would have been thankfnly received ; it was kindly 
meant though untimely. Land was in sight this morning, 
also several vessels. The Frolic is towing the Colorado^ 
We bad target practice with onr battery after supper, and 
Robert Jordan of our IX-inch broadside gun keeps his name 
of best shot with the big guns, splintering the target into 
fragments with his first shell at 1400 yards. John Smith, 
Boatswain's Mate and captain of the Xl-inch after pivot gun 
knocked off the upper barrel of six in the target at the first 
discharge, so that only those two shots could be Qred until 



WE PASS ELBA. ARRIVE AT T0UL01f« 1^ 

barrefe for another target can be saved. It is still calm and 
the Frolic towing the Colorado. We are passing Elba and 
a gronp of other small islands lying between the northern 
point of Corsica and Italy. 

Sunday^ May 6, 1866. We have passed around the fin- 
ger of Ck>r8ica and at sanset it shows in the distance on our 
port quarter while the mountains of the mainland loom up on 
our starboard beam. I had another night of pain and lau- 
danum though doing duty. 

Monday^ May 7. We shackled to moorings at Toulon 
about 9 A. M. My ear pained me badly this forenoon and 
as I preferred to remain on deck and keep busy to being on 
the sick list and staying below with nothing but the ache to 
think of Woods told me to take the steady sweeping of our 
part of the deck and he would get me excused from other 
duty. That is about as heavy work as I feel like doing. 

Tuesday^ May 8. The Frenchmen brought oflf some very 
good looking beef for our fresh soup but it was ''blowed" 
to make it look better and was refused by the doctor. Sail 
beef was served out and the vegetables weighed out to the 
messes to boil instead of a fresh soup. The French Admiral 
visited both the Colorado and the Ticonderoga^ receiving our 
salutes and returning each. 

Wednesday^ May 9. While washing decks this morning 
Ensign Dichman called us aft and read from the New York 
Herald of April 1 4 and snccee<ling issues an account of the 
Fenian move against Canada. Before reading he told us 
to make no noisy demonstration, but it was hard work for 
the men to obey. They put their feelings into the scrubbing 
brooms as if the deck represented the nation that helped to 
man the Alabama in her fight with the Kearsarge., and the 
deck got an exceedingly thorough scouring. It looks aa if 
England might be paid in her own coin for her treatment of 



134 MT BOVIKG LIFE. 

nR during the rebellion. We hoisted everything oat of the 
hold to-day for another general cleaning. 

Thursday^ May lOy 1866. In the forenoon we cleaned 
and whitewashed all the barrels that wereion deck. In the 
afternoon I was sent into the hold to help re-stow it, the 
capt.-o'-tbe hold with a gang on one side and I with another 
gang on the other side of the hold raced. We stowed the 
things as fast as those on deck conld give them to us, and 
we of course had to come out even. It is rather corious that 
as steady sweeper 1 am excused from such details yet am 
at ODCc called upon for any work in the hold, fore passage, 
or spirit room, but it happens so. 

Friday J May 11. I am about sick with another intoler- 
able pain in my head but doing duty for I dislike the after. 
effects of the opiates given ime. We are overhauling all the 
running rigging and stowing spare riggirg in the hold. Of 
course I am sent into the hold at the stowing, the boatswain 
telling me that Mr. Allyu t^'fints me to know where every- 
thing is in the hold. The capt.-o'- the- hold and I are good 
friends and he uuderatands that I would not willingly take 
the billet from any one who desires to remain in the service, 
for the disrating of a man before he leaves a ship tells against 
Lim ever after, while the ^^C. H.'* that will follow bis name 
to his next ship if be holds the billet at his transfer or dis- 
chaise will benefit him greatly. I prefer to remain genei*al- 
utility-mati till dischai^ed. 

Saturday^ May 12. 1 was ordered into the Ist cutter with 
the information that the first lieutenant knew nothing about 
the steady sweeper business. Either our Executive Officer 
is very forgetful or the petty officer over me a big — well — 
wishes to make me useful at such times as he can have me. 
The 1st cutter went to the navy yard and 1 was well paid for 
the row between these petty officers over me. Inside the 



t1l« 



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101^1 



fTJBUC 



UBK^^'' 



.STOK 



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TVV.A> 



El^t 



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FRENCH SqiPB. TI AKP TB£ MOKKET. 135 

6ea wall are mopred the hulks of ckxene of old, ufBeless 12tl 
apd 74-gaii nhwpBr unoooth in form and bearing the signs of 
deerepit age, yet for past services honored with a place for 
safe repose nntil decay renders them unable to float. The 
new yessels are a great departure from these old models and 
are apparently the resalt of a study of our war experience. 
It remains to be proved whether they are an improvement 
upon our monitors for fighting purposes. The wind rose in 
the afternoon and while g<Mng ashore the 1st cutter's mast 
was broken just before we reached the landing. Half-an-* 
hour after our return to the ship it had Keen replaced by our 
carpenters. The Captain's Clerk has brought on board a 
new pet, a monkey. Ti and the monkey were friends at om« 
and no work conkl proceed for a long time, for men deserted 
and the officer would stop to laugh at each new trick of dog 
or monkey upon the other. We received water during the 
dinner hour and sand at supper time. The sand had such a 
share of loam that 1 had no doubt it would grow good pota- 
toes, though it is intended for scrubbing decks with. 

Monday^ May 14^ 1S66. The Admiral hoisted his pen- 
nant on board tke ProUc yesterday and this noon went to 
sea bound for Gibraltar. The Colorado is dischaiging her 
powder and shells preparatory to going into the dry dock. 
At cutlass drill after quarters this forenoi»n I was sent away 
by Mr. Wadleigh ; I could not hear well enough to give my 
opponent the cuts till he had come to his guard, though he 
iBOUld not catch B»e napping in parrying his blows. While I 
was at the landing I ran up to a store and got me a French 
atlas which is not <mly of present use but will be a curiosity 
at home for the small space given to American countries. 

Tuudayj May IS, 1866. It is quite cold to-day. Samuel 
Courtney, the Engineer's Steward left at Trieste April 16 th 
came aboard to-day. He had a last drink wheA he sent his 



136 MT ItOYING LIFE. 

second lot of stores to the boat and remembered nothing oiore 
till the police found him two days after in an old boat at the 
iirharf . He was taken in charge by the American Consul 
and for warded from one consul to another in chase of us till 
the expense amounted to $94 which will come out of his pay. 
ThuKsdayj May 17^ 1866. A gale that had been blowing 
for some days abated yesterday. Last night I was forced 
to use the laudanum mixture in my ear again, lying awake 
till 1 o'clock and waking again after three hours of troubled 
dreams. I can hear very little distinctly. It seems harder 
to bear from its being the result of a drunken shipmate's 
target practice. There is evidence enough recorded in these 
pages of the injury done by intoxicating liquors to stamp 
alcohol as one of the greatest curses to mankind. Could 
the injui7 be confined to those guilty of using it or tempting 
others to use it there might be some limit to the curse ; but 
the injury extends to all connected with the drunkard and to 
the whole community. The Colorad-> has gone into the dry 
dock at the navy yard. While at the bookstore to-day fpr 
some paper 1 caught sight of two views of Toulon which I 
was very glad to secure at a franc each. Opposite to our 
rnchorage is the residence and mercantile section of the city, 
backed by a long, steep ridge ending at the right in a high 
bluff. All the rest of the harbor is devoted to use as a naval 
station and to forts to protect it. This ridge is bare as if 
it were entirely devoid of soil, and the less steep slope at its 
foot is only sparsely dotted with low-growing shrubs. The 
whole business seems to be connected with Naval matters. 
J have seen no carriage or beast of draft or bui'den. The 
streets near the landing do not much exceed a rod in widths 
At the edge of some of the narrow sidewalks are streams of 
running water and the ladies' rotund skirts fill the walks so 
completely that gentlemen have to jump across or into the 



MY CUTLA88 DRILL **AT WILL." 137 

water to avoid a coHibioii when they meet one. At least we 
sailors do for we wish to be polite. We have seen the chain 
gangs and galley convicts at work at the yard dressed in red 
blouses and yellow pants with chains from their ankles to 
their waists and thence connecting the two "yoke- fellows." 
The Louis XIV^ a steam line-of- battle-ship of 120 guns, 
came in this forenoon. We bent light sails and got ready 
for sea this afternoon. After supper our division had cut- 
lass drill. Mr. Allyn asked Mr. Wadleigh if Stuart didn't 
belong to his division. On being told that be had excused 
me because I could not hear but seemed to nnderatand the 
use of the weapon, Mr. Allyn ordered me up to be drilled 
with the rest. I could make no cuts or thrusts ordered till 
my opponent came to that guaitl, but could defend myself 
without being able to hedr. When I found they were exer- 
cising at will I '^pitched into" my opponent in a way that set 
the officers gathered on the poop to laughing heartily as I 
sent my man's wooden cutlass flying out of his hand at their 
feet. Using an old swinging parry to a low body thrust, I 
was told by Mr. Wadleigh that it was old-fashioned and 
that it left me exposed to a smashing head-cut should the 
thrust prove a feint. He tried me several times on the new 
parry. 1 could take it when he thrust slowly, but when be 
put vigor into his thrast my weapon instinctively took the old 
swing taught me twenty-five years before on board the old 
Columbus, He at last feigned a thrust and made a blow at 
my bead. I was there to meet him in spite of having swung 
around the circle. Capt. Steadman laughingly exclaimed, 
^^It's hard teaching an old dog new tricks!" Mr. Allyn 
then excused me from further cutlass drill, being satisfied I 
could take care of myself. This moniing our potato skouse 
reminded me of the question of the boy whose mother could 
afford only salt with their potatoes^:-^^ What do poor folks do 



138 HT Boymo ufb. 

that havn't any salt for their potatpea?" We irere in that 
predicament thi« morning, the cook giTing qb mashed boiled 
potatoes without the least seasoning whatever, although three 
pounds of mess poii^ per man are served out each week and 
four poonds of salt beef or its equivalent in fresh or canned 
beef. Fork pat into the coppers to boil is punched by the 
ship's ouok to get out all fat possible and the mess cooks are 
entitled to what they want of this fat, yet some are too lazy 
to call for it. Cans of fresh beef were behind the mess chest 
but last night in preparing his morning's skouse he neglected 
to even salt his potatoes. All hands growled and eadi one 
salted to suit himself. 

Sunday^ May 20j 1S66. Yesterday we carried away our 
foremast again while going ashore in the boat. The wind 
came in heavy gusts. Early this morning we went to the 
dry dock bamn where the Colorado is in dock. Her shaft 
is badly worn in the journal and it is thought she will have 
to get a new one made. The Frenchmen had measurements 
of her lines before she bad been in dock twenty^four hours. 
We went to sea at 9 A. M. 

Monday^ May 21. We thought when we came aboard 
this ship from the Princeton that we were coming where we 
would have room to turn around, but our range has been 
giradually restricted till now we are reduced to the port side 
between the fore and mainmasts. We are debarred the use 
of under the topgallant foi'ecastle because some of the CbZ- 
orado's liberty men threw a bottle of liquor iuto one of the 
bow ports there while at Toulon. At quarters I could not 
hear the drum roll nor the fire bell ring on account of the 
roaring in my ears. We set the fore-and-aft sails at noon 
and at 3 P. M. added topsails and topgallantsails, being at 
the time off Majorca. The wind came dead ahead and we 
furled all sail at half.past-five. Musket dritt came fifter 



LOSE A ftET OF COINS. GIBRALTAR. 1 39 

supper, the mariBes at the bayonet drill. My wallet with 
silver coins of the different ports we have visited has gone 
into the possesssion of some one not entitled to it. They 
are marked and spending them at the bumboats alongside 
the ship may resnlt in detection. 

Tuesday^ May 22, 1866. We passed Ivica early this 
morning and at nine o'clock were abreast of Cape St. Martin, 
half way to Gibraltar. We had a good stiff breeze with all 
sail set till 5 P. M. when we farled everything and exercised 
at shifting topsails. The maintopmen beat ns handsomely. 
At 7 P. M. we passed Palos. 

Wednesday y May 23. As I came off lookout at 4 A. M. 
we wei*e abreast of Cape de Gata. Small patches of snow 
are still visible on the tops of the mountains back of the 
cape. We are continually meeting vessels coming from the 
straits with a fair wind to them. 

Thursday^ May 24. We came to anchor at Gibraltar at 
eight o'clock this morning. Another dispute between the 
capt.-o'-the-top and coxswain of the Ist cutter as to which 
should have me resulted in my going to the Executive Officer 
to know which I should obey. His words were to the point : 
^^ You belong to the 1st cutter and will go in her." That 
settles it for all time. A lighter that came alongside this 
forenoon with coal had shipped so much water that it was 
nearly in a sinking condition when it reached us and contin- 
ued to take in water faster than coal could \*e passed out. I 
thought that a few bags of sand or coal laid along the bow 
would have stopped any more water coming in and save the 
lighter and its load, but a sailor is not supposed to express 
his idea of what should be done and I kept silent. The 
men were ordered out and the lighter cast loose for it to drift 
astern and return to the shore. It sank close under our 
sterm The Spaniard in charge was frantic and prayed t^ 



140 MT BOVIK6 urs. 

the Saints and the Virgin instead of throwing overboard coal 
or returning to the shore when he first found his boat was 
too heavily loaded for snch weather. We picked up the 
crew and landed them at The Rock. At the landing we 
fonnd the water very smooth under the lee of the mole which 
extends out from the town a long way and forms a platform 
with erabrazures for guns protecting the landing and used 
for saluting. The Rock really did look impregnable with its 
numerous guns thrust from ports cut in the precipitous side 
of the solid rock high above the reach of an enemy's shells. 
Lines of tunnels have been cut within the rock along the 
northern half of the western side (»verlooking the Bay of 
Gibraltar and extemled around the northern end facing the 
Spanish coast, and from these tunnels the ports were cut. 
These galleries were begun a hundred years ago and work 
has continued upon them ever since, so that at the present 
time (1866) they extend two miles (ilong the northwesterly 
face of the rock. The circuit of The Rock is about seven 
miles, and the southern and ^'estern sides are completely 
encircled by a sea wall and fortified the whole distance, so 
it would be impossible to effect a landing unexposed to a 
heavy fire. The eastern side is precipitous and the northern 
point is one thousand feet above sea level. The town lies 
at the southerly half of the western side along a strip of more 
gradual slope at the foot of the steeper grade. Part way up 
this slope is an old Moorish castle built during the occupancy 
of the Moors. It has stood upon the shoulder of the hill 
for nearly twelve centuries. At the extreme highest point 
of the peak at the northern face a gun is stationed for firing 
signals. At sunrise and at sunset a puff of smoke is seen to 
issue from out of the rock at that point, followed some little 
time after by the sound of the discharge of this gun a thou- 
sand feet high, suggesting a lofty desire to show off before 



THE queen's birthday. THE ROCK SPITS FIRE. 141 

the world and be a wainiDg to Spain. One fails to perceive 
the utility of packing the charges of powder all those miles 
of climbing to fire it off for mere show. It seems boyish. 

Friday^ May 25^ 1866. The son rose apparently fair but 
a deiiae mist clung to the side of The Rock. Soon after a 
stiff breeze from the Atlantic brought piles of clouds that 
came rushing on like successive squadrons of cavalry to the 
charge, changing to stratus, then to nimbus, and before the 
first coal lighter had been discharged we received a volley 
from these hosts of the air accompanied by a heavy sea. It 
cleared a little in the^fteraoon and I got a chance to sew. 
A man fell overboai<d from the whaleboat while it was being 
hoisted to the davits at sunset. A rope's end #as thrown to 
him and he came aboard by it, reporting himself as *<rowa 
aboard, sir!" 

Saturday^ May 26. Another night of acute pain, leaving 
me weak and unnerved. These spells seem to follow damp 
weather. It is the Queen's birthday and ships of the several 
nations in port are ti immed with flags and the usual salutes 
were fired at noon. It was interesting to watch the puffs of 
smoke and fire issuing in succession from the black points 
high up the northern crag as the salute was being fired. 1 
saw ripe apricots on board to-day. The colliers finished at 
2 P. M. ; we then spent the usual three hours cleaning ship. 
Two men were thrown overboard at quarters this evening by 
attempting to raise the after pivot port-rail to withdraw a 
wedge without first lowering the ports, as that would have 
been visible from the outside. The ports being hooked to 
the rail above them swung outward and downward, and by 
their weight carried the rail and men with them, sending the 
latter forcibly several feet from the ship in their dive. A 
f 6w strokes brought them to the ship's side and hands helped 
them to the deck. The instant call for the Ist cutter*8 when 



142 HV KOTINO LIFK. 

Mr. Allyii saw the men go was '^ belayed" when he saw the 
men conld §wim. It is said that we go to Lisbon from liere 
to meet the fleet. Our officers are very particular about the 
appearance of the ship and drills are constant. The men are 
jnst as anxious to keep our name as the crack ship, and the 
drills are put through with a will. The probabilities of onr 
success are a matter for frequent discussion, and the work 
of individuals U criticised or praised freely. One of the first 
objects to strike the eye at Gibraltar is tlie Signal Station 



THB PEAK OF THE BOCK. 

upon the southerly peak, its flags immediately signaling the 
character of sails as they appear in sight, from either way. 
The view presented is from a photograph taken at a point on 
the peak a little south of tbe station. The town extends 
along the shore of tbe bay at tbe left some 800 or 900 feet 
below, the Meditterranean is to the right and back or north 
of the peak, and the Spanish coast in the distance. The gun 
that is fli'ed at sunset is on tbe top of the farther peak. All 
approaches to the Straits of Gibraltar are in sight from this 



TAK6IEB. LISBOir. GET LKTTBR SIX MONTHS OLD. 148 

signal station, and a detail is constantly on duty sweeping 
the horizon witb a powerfnl glass. The weather must be 
very nnf avorable for distinct vision to permit a vessel to slip 
by nnobaerved or with her character undetermined. 

Sundaifj Main 27, ISM. We up anchor at midnight for 
Tangier, Morocco, and came to anchor at 6 A. M. Tangier 
is at the northwestern point of Africa. The Spanish coast 
is in sight to Trafalgar. The contrast between the scenery 
here and at the European ports opposite is quite marked. I 
expected to see only barren sand hills hi northern Africa, but 
found the low hills crowned with verdure, while upon the 
opposite coast the towns are nearly always built upon nar- 
row strips at the base of high, bare, rocky ric%es or in little 
valleys between them. We have had several Moors aboard 
to visit us tnrbaned and cloaked in white, the richness of 
their robes denoting rank or wealth. They were shown over 
the ship and sat upon the quarter deck some time chatting 
with our oflScers through an interpreter. Our consul was on 
board early this morning. We think our coming is for some 
definite purpose in connection with the consul, but wtiatever 
it was we did not have to show our teeth. 

Monday^ May 28. Other visitors have been coming on 
board — large yellow grasshoppers or locusts. They have 
been very destructive this season — even eating the vines of 
potatoes. A stiff breeze from the land blows many on our 
decks and the water is almost covered with them nearer the 
land. A caravan camped near the beach last night, and at 
«unrise this morning they prostrated themselves upon knees 
and hands facing the rifling sun. We got under weigh at 6 
P. M. for Lisbon. 

7\cesday, May 30. We got moored at Lisbon at 5 P. M« 
I have at last gotten a letter dated December 7th, stating 
among other things that the money letter from Fort Mifflin 



144 MY KOVIHO LirK. 

bad Dot reached home. It was in answer to mhie frpm the 
Delaware breakwater. (A few years after the war a tnisted 
clerk in the Lowell Post Office was detected in pmioining 
money from letters. Perhaps that may aocoont for my loss. ) 

Uiuraday^ May 81^ 1666, Another night of extreme 
pain. I got nicely asleep by one o'clock and at two was 
called to go on anchor watch. I went to the doctor in the 
forenoon and a chloroform mixtare was applied within and 
behind my ear. After a long consultation between the three 
doctors I was giTcn a letter to copy, apparently as a speci* 
men of my handwriting. I was excused from dnty. 

Friday^ June 1. The Storeship National Guard iB^ng 
home and will take some of our men discarded for various 
reasons. Rumor says that this ship is to sail directly for 
Trieste to protect our interests during the war that is liable 
to be declared at any day by Italy and Prussia against Aus- 
tria. It was quite nainy yesterday and ail last night. I 
got quiet about 2 : 30 and all hands were called at 4 A>. M. 
to wash clothes. I washed only one piece that 1 niust have 
for Sunday if we muster in white. I did not feel able to do 
even that but I disliked to put it upon my messmates, which 
they are required to do for a sick messmate. To-day the 
doctors are syringing my left ear preparatory to examining 
it with an instrument. Still excused from duty. 

Saturday^ June 2. There was a consultation of Surgeons 
of the fleet on board this forenoon. I understand that the 
doctors proposed to send me home, but that Mr. Allyn ob- 
jected so strenuously that they deferred to his wish. The 
quartermaster on duty aft had overheard their talk and told 
us that five were to go but I was to stay because I was so 
useful to Mr. Allyn when any of his petty officers are sick. 
I begin to think I have been almost too useful for my benefit, 
yet I could not help doing to the best of my ability whatever 



CAULKERS AT WCWX. A TXBT FOUL HAWSE. 145 

WM reqaired of me. A gang of oaolkers from ashore are 
eavlking out de^a. 

Simday^ Jwne 8^ 1866. I went on dnty again. 1 am to 
apply to the Surgeon*s Steward whenever the pain becomes 
aevere and he will administer morphine tr.* and aconite tr. to 
subdue It. I went ashore in the boat, landing at a square 
tastefully paved in Mosaic with small, round, smooth stones 
in two colors, white and blue. There was a fountain in the 
center of the square. 

Monday^ June 4. I had to call upon the steward for his 
mixture but it had no perceptible e£feet. We are busy at 
49etting up rigging. The caulkers finished their job at night. 

Tuedday^ June 5. We holystoned the decks after the 
caulkers in the forenoon and after dinner coaled ship. We 
lost a man from our boat while at the landing and in conse- 
quence our boat's crew are quarantined for two days from 
leaving the boat. We are thus punished for the act of our 
boatmate. I wonder if it ever occurred to our Executive that 
the desire to desert in this case could possibly have been on 
account of restrictions imposed upon all hands for the act 
of men from another ship. Even the best of men do not 
relish being punished for others' faults. 

Wedne$day^ June 6, The report is that the Kearsarge 
is to go home from this port, and that we sail to*morrow for 
Trieste to protect our interests there in case of war. 

Thursday^ June 7. We comment^ to get up anchor at 
5 A. M. but found tbe mooring chains so foul with both an- 
chors and each other that we had to ^^ back" the capstan 
with two deck*tackles, one as a luff upon the other. Tbe 
swivel to the mooring shackle had not turned and the ship 
in swinging with the tide hand wound the cables around the 
anchors and each other in all sorts of tangles, taking till 5 
F. M. to clear so as to get the second anchor up. We then 



■ 



146 XT ROYINQ LIFK. 

steamed down the river till 7 : 30 and anchored, there 8ti!l 
being several turns of its own chain aroaud the port anchor 
that took till 9 o'clock to clear ; an anchor watch was then 
set and hammocks piped down. 

Friday, June 8, 1866. We got under weigh at 5 A. M. 
and went to sea. We showed colors with the English mail 
steamer bound in to Lisbon. 

Saturday, June 9. 1 missed my muster in the morning 
watch but the captain-o'-the-top learned that I was walking 
the deck t|ll after 3 o'clock in my watch below and reported 
it. Mr. Wadleigh said I had probably lain down and gotten 
asleep and to let me sleep if I could. I waked at the noise 
of washing decks after daylight and hurried on deck to re- 
port myself as having overslept, expecting to be in troable. 
^^All right, we learned that you were sick," was the answer. 
This was but one of many acts of kindness to me from that 
officer, who, as my division officer had more direct control 
over me than the others, and to whom my infirmity was most 
troublesome on that account. At noon we were abreast of 
Cape Trafalgar, with the African coast iu the dim distance 
and a stiff breeze sending the spray over our decks wetting 
our clothesbags that had been piped up while scraping and 
whitewashing the berth deck was going on. A large steamer 
is iu toward the land keeping abreast of us. 

Sunday, June 10. We passed Gibraltar at midnight last 
night and at 4 P. M. Nevada's peaks show their patches of 
white still unmelted by the heat of June. Yet more strin- 
gent rules are enforced and priviliges further abridged. We 
now have a space of about 1 m 6 feet per man to stay in 
dnring the day when no work is going on, and out of this is 
reserved at times room for a carpenter's bench with four men 
at work, also a blacksmith forge and anvil with two men at 
work. The combings of the hatches and the waterways are 



A FANCY 8BIP. TAROICT PBACTICE. 147 

scraped clean from any trace of the black paint given them 
at the navy yard and are now to be scrubbed with sand and 
canvass, the bitts and the pinrails about the masts have been 
varnished with shellac and must be used with extreme ciare 
as if made for ornament rather than the rough use originally 
intended, the inner sides of the hatches that had first been 
painted a clean white upon a lead color and afterward a sky 
blue are now daubed with an extremely dirty shade of yel- 
low. The men are proud of the name of being a crack ship's 
crew, bnt they growl over the restrictions and unnecessary 
work of 9kjb.ncy ship. We are allowed to sit upon nothing4 
to lean upon nothing, and touch nothing but the bare deck 
of the port side between the foremast and a respectful dis- 
tance forward of the gangway. Some threaten to desert at 
the first chance but no one believes them to have more serious 
desire than to have their growl out. They forget that part 
of this is for punishment and may be only temporary. At 
sunset the sea was smooth and the slight heaving motion ever 
in force caused changeable glints of red, bronze, gold, green, 
and blue reflections upon its surface rarely seen. The sun 
set cloudy behind the snowy peaks at Cape de Gata while the 
loom of the African coast is again visible in the southern 
horison. A glance at the map showi» that it will remain in 
sightable distance (by daylight) till near Cape Bon it trends 
to the south of a direct course to the Island of Sicily. We 
are to stop first at Messina. 

Monday^ June 11^ 1866, Last night I took chloroform 
mixture and had laudanum applied freely, then went on deck 
to my watch again . We had target practice with muskets this 
forenoon at which they said I made three hits out of four, 
although my nerves were too unsteady and my eyes felt top 
fishy to strike a bead. The officers used opera glasses U> 
score us. A very severe headache follows my night of pain 



148 Ut ROVING LIVE. 

aud narcotics. Did you ever see a nice large house, so 
splendidly furnished and decorated that no one was allowed 
to go into it, but an ell had been added to live in ? I t&ink 
the Government will have to build an ell to the Ticonderoga 
before long for the sailors to live in. The Sailmaker's gang 
are to have room to work in the port gangway, leaving us 
hai'dly room to swing a cat around by the whiskers, let alone 
by the tail. 

Tuesday, June 12, 1866. A light is ahead at 4 A. M. 
We are varnishing the berth deck with shellac, an acceptable 
innovation as any grease dropped is easily removed, though 
it may be slippery during a heavy roll when wet. We had 
pistol practice in both forenoon and afternoon. One man 
let his pistol go oflf and the ball after glancing from the port- 
sill hit a darkle in the pit of the stomach, grazing the skin 
and dropping down his trousers leg when his waistband was 
loosened to search for it. Caesar, a Portugese* wardroom 
waiter, tried his hand at it. Pulling upon the trigger while 
cocking his piece it of course went off when he let go the, 
tiammer. It took a piece out of the halliard rack, glanced 
the broadside gun abaft the to'gallant-forecastle, then put 
out the light in the lantern at which Mr. Clark was lighting 
his cigar. Mr. Clark came aft and laughingly desired us 
to use some other target as he wished to finish his smoke. 
Caesar was then made to stand at the port-sill after being told 
how to use his piece. This time he put the ball close to the 
side of the ship instead of the bottle some sixty feet away. 
The pistol was then taken from him. 

Wednesday J June 13. Target practice with Sharp's rifles 
occupied the forenoon. The tai^et was hung below the fore, 
yardarm and we stood aft on the poop to fire. The ship was 
quite steady, giving an easy mark. I was also in good con- 
dition physically for quick and steady aiming. After firing 



n 






1 



i ASTOI^, LENOX 

! rn-DBN FOUNDATIONS 



MORE TAB6BT PRACTICE. A HAN HURT. 149 

my sixth gbot I was abont to step aside as had the others, 
but Capt. Steadman said, ** Try him again !" On the ninth 
shot I took deliberate aim and pat the ball half in the ball's* 
eye, when he said, '* That will do, he can't miss ! " Going 
forward I found that I had hit the six inch target every time 
by catching sight as I raised my piece ; eight being within 
the circle of three inches diameter. I had made the greatest 
number of running off-hand hits in the ship, though I could 
not brag much as more than half of Ihe men had not hit the 
targetat all. We lostsightof the African coast this morning. 

Thur^day^ June 14^ 1866. Exercise at general quarters 
and hauling both cables ou deck to clean out the chain lock- 
ers kept us busy till dinner time. No hind in sight all day. 
We made sail at 5 P. M. and shut off steam. Word was 
then passed for coxswains to sec their boats well secured, so 
we may expect a rolling night if the wind continues to rise. 

Friday^ June 15. Sicily is in sight this morning all the 
way forward of our starboard beam. At quarters exercise 
this forenoon John Simpson, one of my launchmates of the 
Meiacomet got a foot jammed in pivoting the forward Xl-inch 
gun. The weight of these guns 
is sQch that they are apt to get 
away from the men if the ship is 
railing while one is being pivoted. 
The gun at firing has its forward 
pivot pin inserted at either of the 
side pivots, s p, the weight of the 
gun resting mainly upon it, the 
training tracks of the rear end at pivot circlks. 
some point of the training circle of that side. After the re* 
coil the gun is run oat to bring the weight upon that end of 
the carriage and enable the gun's crew to pivot the rear end 
to the center pivot, c p, and insert that pivot piu. The gun 




150 MT BOYIKG LIVB. 

IB niu ID, the pin withdrawn from the side pivot and the gnu 
can then be pivoted on c p to the forward pivot and that pin 
inserted. While being pivoted it receives its powder diarge 
and at this point meets its shell jnst at its mazzle, coming 
from below. To fire from the opposite side the forward pin 
is drawn, the gun continues to pivot while the loaders ride 
and send the shell home, the pin is dropped into the side-pivot 
socket, the gan ran out, the center pivot-pin drawn, the gun 
trained to the object and fired. In exercising without the 
actual loading the maneuvers for pivoting and firing four 
times must be performed in three minutes or the gun's crew 
may expect more than the hour of daily drill until they can 
accomplish it. Every move must be made with the precision 
of cloclcwork, and the rolling of the ship interferes greatly, 
so that at times the pivot pin cannot catch in season or the 
gun races during pivoting, and some one suffers. Simpson 
is the second man to be hurt in the same manner. Young 
Parker, of the after pivot, had his foot badly hurt the day 
after we left Lisbon the first time. We were off Palermo 
at noon. 

Saturday^ June 16^ 1866. We came to anchor at Mes- 
sina early this morning and got ready to coal ship as soon as 
the decks tcere scrubbed. At the same time all boat's crews 
were ordered into clean white frocks and blue trousers. Figs 
were offered for sale alongside. Squads of white habited 
conscripts are drilling in every available level spot and a 
steamer loaded with them is getting up steam for going to 
sea. I was ashore in Sicily this morning for the first time. 
Being boatkeeper I had none of the dirty work of coaling, 
and sat in the boat all day mending stockings when the boat 
was not called away. After supper the boats were hoisted 
i^nd the two watches were told that each watch was to fill a 
side of the bunkers, then on an even keel, and when a watch 



COALING AT MESSINA . SAIL FOR TRIESTE. 151 

bad filled its bunkers it would be piped down. Our watch 
got the port bunkers filled at 10 : 30 and got our hammocks. 

Sunday y June 17^ 1866. The starboard watch did not 
get their hammocks till 2 : 30 this morning. They lost heart 
when they found they were beaten and at last sulked. A 
fii'eman, named Andrews, succeeded in stowing his bag and 
hammock on board a lighter and got away with them, going 
to a barque bound to The States, ^^ where he can have room." 
We got under weigh at 7 A. M. Back of Rhegghium on the 
Italian shore is a singular spur of rock rising vertically from 
the surface of the ridge, jagged and split, with huge square 
boulders scattered at its base in positions to very strongly 
resemble a village. I have longed to visit it each time we 
have passed. Studdingsails were set after dinner and at 
once a play at the braces and studdingsail tacks commenced 
that continued all the afternoon, the ship going two knots or 
less. A fishing smack came alongside and sold us some fish« 
At 5 o'clock we were reduced to reefed topsails, and later we 
furled everything. 

Tuesday^ June 19. We crossed the Gulf of Tarentum 
yesterday and sighted the east shore of the Adriatic last eve- 
ning. This morning land was in sight all along to the east. 
Mr. DeLong had charge of our division at general quarters 
this forenoon, Mr. Wadieigh being sick. Word was passed 
at 6 P. M. for coxswains to see their boats well secured, a 
small gale blowing and the ship taking water over her sides. 

Thursday^ June 21. Immediately after dinner we began 
to send down light sails and gear, steaming our best with an 
Austrian frigate in chase. We were running them out of 
sight when we lay to for them to overhaul and examine us. 
We counted twenty-eight guns of a side as she ranged up 
beside us with her men at quarters and tompions out, near 
enough to toss a biscuit on board. Being satisfied with our 



152 MY ROVING LIFE. 

• 

appearance, and satisfied also that we really coald show them 
a clean pair of heels, the officers sainted ours, their ship 
swung about and returned to her station at Polo. We vrere 
told to show ourselves anywhere except at our guns as she 
came up. We soon after started steam and at 5 P. M. made 
fast to moorings at Trieste. War had been declared against 
Italy und Prussia by Austria a few days ago. 

FridoLy^ June 22, 1866. A little before noon some fire 
was discovered in the coal stowed over the starboard boilers. 
The main force pumps were under repair, but the smaller ones 
were started upon the hot, smoking mass though with very 
little visible efifect. Gas continued to rise and after dinner 
the Engineer *s crew were set at work to overhaul the whole 
lot. They shoveled it forward and found it such stifling 
work in the confined space of the bunkers that no one could 
work there many minutes at a time. Volunteers were sent 
from the deck under a promise of a mug of l>eer for each 
shift of ten minutes. This brought out eager volunteers to 
get a drink, and an eight gallon keg procured from ashore 
was expended thus to quench the fire of their ardor before 
the fire in the coal was subdued. All the coal over the star- 
boai*d boilers had to be hoisted on deck and the heated pieces 
thrown overboard or placed ready for use in the furnaces. 
The fire was supposed to have been caused by the ardor of 
the firemen in raising steam during the chase yesterday. 

Monday^ June 25. Martial law has been proclaimed, the 
lighthouse is unlighted and every precaution is taken to pre- 
vent the enemy's vessels enteiing unseen. To-day a first 
lot of liberty men went ashore. All day yesterday and to- 
day troops have been marching to take the cars for Venice, 
or rather Peschiera, near Verona on the western boundary 
of Venetia, some 125 miles from here by railroad, where a 
fierce battle is going on with the Italians, who are intent on 



AUSTRIA AT WAR WITH ITALY AND PRUSSIA. 158 

regaining that province and its city of Venice. An Austrian 
side-wheel steamer of six 80pdr. rifles came in this morning 
and her captain visited us at noon. Salutes were exchanged 
between us. The Austrians claim a complete victory over 
the Italians, driving them across the Po and taking 2000 
prisoners^ Yesterday we re-painted the inside of the bul- 
warks and to-day the outside of the ship. We saluted an 
Austrian official visiting us in the afternoon. Every salute 
brings the inhabitants to the housetops and wharves thinking 
it may possibly mean a descent upon the city by the enemy's 
fleet. Quite a number of army officers visited us and saw 
the after pivot gun's crew go through with the drill of firing 
from one side, loading while pivoting, and firing from the 
other side in 39 seconds, astonishing them beyond measure. 

Wednesday^ Jane 27^ 1866. This afternoon the last of 
our liberty men were brought aboard by the police, a day 
over their time. Some of them were petty officers. This 
evening an Austrian steamer towed a fleet of small craft to 
sea bound for Venice with government stores. 

Thursday^ Jane 28, J went on liberty with a half-month's 
pay. Charlie Williams concluded to take a quiet stroll with 
me and we flrst went up to the fort crowning a steep knoll 
overlooking the center of the city. Finding an extensive 
view from a square between the fort gates and a cathedral 
we dat down under the shade of some trees awhile and took 
s. good look around to determine what we wanted to visit. 
Around the Lighthouse Point was another bay into which 
flows the Formio, with the extensive works of the Lloyds 
stretching along its shore a long distance. It attracted our 
attention most forcibly, so we struck down a flight of stone 
steps at the cathedral front and through some steep paved 
streets and then kept to the southward and eastward along 
a seaside carriageway under the shade of a double row of 



TRIESTE. THE LLOYD8' WORK8. WOCNDEl> ABBIVE* 155 

sycamore trees {Kastagne salvatico) that shaded the drive 
for a loDg distance. We found that the works of these 
Lloyd Brothers extend for a full mile along the shore and 
contain several dry docks, at least one of them large enough 
to take in our ship of 1800 tons. They also have several 
ways. Their machine shop is extensive and well equipped. 
Like the docks they and every thing about the establishment 
are of most solid construction. Their seventy odd steamers 
carry mail and passengers east from here, enough of them 
being in port at any time to form quite a feature in all views 
of the harbor. Their private office is one of the largest and 
finest business buildings in the city, the extensive lawn in 
front nicely kept and embelished with ornamental plants and 
statues. Their workmen occupy a tract between the works 
and the city, with fine residences for the overseers, wtiile a 
grand mansion crowns the hill and commands a full view of 
the works, the bays, the city, an<} many miles beyond them. 
Past this establishment we took a road to the left leading 
to the gas works. Here the same care had been taken to 
beautify the grounds fronting their office and works. The 
road from here began to run through a cultivated valley, the 
soil a blue clay with a trace of sand and apparently a hard- 
pan subsoil, drained by open ditches and wherever r^ently 
worked ^as very lumpy. Corn was very weak in the stalk 
and the leaves were curled from drought. Returning to the 
city by another valley in the rear of the fort we started from 
we strolled to the railroad station at the other extremity, 
meeting many women of all classes, most of them showing 
traces of having been weeping bitterly. A train of wounded 
had just arrived from the field of battle and they had been 
to meet their suffering friends and relatives. Returning to 
the rear of the city again we saw a long baggage train being 
hitched up at one of the many barrack yards. We then took 



156 m BOTIXO UFB. 

% walk throagh one of their public beer gardeoB and reached 
the baninesB part of the city at 5 P. M. Leaving Williams 
here to remain ashore I made aeveral pnrchases of ctotliiog 
and photographs of the city and its buildings, then returned 
to the ship on the saodown boat, reporting with a desire to 
finish my leave tomorrow; Mr. Wadleigh had the deck and 
the naaal search for liquor was not required althoagh I bad 
several packages in my arms that might have concealed it. 

Frulap, June 29, 1866. I went ashore in the market 
boat early in the morning and first visited the market places 



A MABKBT-FLACE, TBTBSTE. 

with the ship's stewards, being greatly amused during the 
pn^ress of trading. These market places are a curiosity. 
I had seen something like them at Rio Janeiro with its lazy 
venders of fruits, bat here was activity personified by the 
peasant women striving for the custom of the American blue< 
jackets. These peasant women come in troops early in the 



TRIESTE. lEABKBTS AND GARDENERS. 1^7 

momiDg with their donkeys and themselTes loaded with all 
sorts of articles for sale, and on entering certain squares in 
the city raise a shelter and arrange their wares beneath it in 
tempting display anywhere upon the cobblestone pavement, 
leaving scarcely room for passing freely between the several 
arrays. Placing themselves within their circles of goods they 
wait for customers. The crooked lanes left abont them are 
crowded with housekeepers, basket in hand, seeking their 
day's snpplies. At a certain hour in the forenoon the square 
must be vacated and by noon every vestige of a market has 
disappeared and only the cleanly swept pavement remains. 
Just outside the city 1 intense wed a gardener and his son, 
named Antonio and Santo Diot who cultivated a small patch 
of vegetables and weeds beneath the shade of fruit trees and 
grapevines. There were at least ten persons in these two 
families that somehow subsisted from the crops of about an 
acre of land. I presumed that this must be supplemented 
by day's work for others, for though their diminutive donkey 
lived upon the weeds that thrived among the lumps of clay, 
their cabbi^es were pierced in every leaf by smooth-skinned 
green caterpillars (Pieris rapoe^) their plums and prunes 
were blighted and falling from the trees, their grapes were 
mildewed, their sorry specimens of corn were curled in the 
leaf while Just in the silk, still they were confident of being 
able to support themselves in what was comfort to theui. I 
glanced within their shed-roofed cottages. Everything was 
neat and clean within; still these mortar-laid nibblestone 
shelters^, with their earthen floors sunk two feet below the 
surface, would convey a poor idea of comfort to the average 
American day laborer. On climbing up a sleep and narrow 
way between high walls laid in mortar I got at last to the end 
of habitation and of cultivation. I found Hiat this lane led 
to an old quarry in what api>eared to be a goat pasture with 



158 HT SOYIKG UFir^ 

no fences of any kind in sight. From here, 1 obtained a fine 
view of the city and bay, and what pleased me as much — wild 
flowers — single pinks growing wild, a little running vine, 
wbite-fiowered like a morning glory, very sweet and already 
seeded, and a sort of moss in full bright yellow bloom that 
covered patches two or three yards square. Crowning the 
acclivity was a high and solid wall with the Austrian ensign 
floating from its flagstaff. I followed a path around to the 
front and found a shooting gallery in the basement of what 
I judged to be a club house. Several well dressed natives 
were firing at a target about four or five rods distant, using 
the windoiY sill as a rest, though not hitting anywhere near 
the center. One of them noticed that I smiled at their lack 
of success and offered me his loaded rifie. I stepped back 
enough to clear the muzzle of the piece from the window and 
covering the center as I raised my piece fired almost before 
the rifle touched my shoulder. What appeared to be a man 
with a bush in his hand sprang up from behind the target, 
like a toy Jack in tbe box, proof of an absolute center shot. 
A roar of laughter greeted the man when he offered me the 
loaded piece again and I made signs for him to stand back 
as I had and hit it himself. I left them to continue their 
sharp shooting and returning by the other side of the ridge 
found myself in a grove of small oaks with their tops cut or 
twisted off at a certain height as if for effect and having a 
light sward beneath them. On my way down the ridge 1 
obtained quite a bouquet of wild flowers, some of them old 
garden friends at home. I found everybody returning from 
church and all of the shops closed. I thus lost the chance 
to buy some things for myself and others, but 1 saw the 
ladies and peasant women in their best attire. It was past 
eleven o'clock and 1 took dinner at a restaurant and returned 
to the ship somewhat tired but pleased with my trip. Of 



xaxahilux'b ubtlx. 1o9 

ftU.my plefiflant expenencee none gftve me greater pleaenre 
thui to witnew the lighting up of the cODDtensnceH of the 
■little bojB and girls as I gave them each a flower or a part 
of whatever I might have in my hand at the iime, and to hear 
tbe invariable "JRingraxio!" (Tbanka) retnmed as if tliey 
appreciated tbe attention from tlie American sailor as mnch as 
(or the value of tbe gift of confectimiery or flower received. 
I bad wanted to visit Maxamillian'a Castle at the northwest- 
ern point of the bay of Trieste but tbe ftft«eD miles was too 



far to «nsble me to retarn on time. I was the more anxious 
to visit it from seeing tbe Mexican flag flying from its tower 
and from the beanty of tbe place as described to me in partly 
understood phrases by the photographer yesterday. It has 
seemed to me very strange that the owner of anch a beautiful 
home, moreover, that a person of Maximillian'a taste could 
consent to leave all these beautiful things, the associations 



160 MY ROVIMO Line. 

by which be wm siirroaiided and the affection of these people 
here, to become the poppet of so inferior a being as Iioais 
Napoleon. 

Saturday^ June 30^ 1866. The men are not all off from 
liberty yet. Oar boat landed Mr. Hitchcock and the consul 
M the railway station at sanset to go to Venice. Boat- 
swain Briscoe came aboard to-day with a story of a Yankee 
sailor who had astonished the natives yesterday by raising a 
rifle and hitting the bairs-eye without taking any aim at all, 
and had said ^^ Yon hit it ! " when offered the piece again. 
He had made some very good hits himself at a rest and they 
had abont concluded that Americans were brought up with 
rifles in their hands and could not miss. Acknowledging 
that I was probably the one they spoke of he asked why I 
didn't shoot again. I told him I thought I couldn't better 
my first shot and was not sure of doing so well again, so 1 
preferred to give them a good opinion of Yankee marksman- 
ship. *^ Bally fur you ! " be shouted. Rain and wind pre- 
vented an exercise at ^^ Away all boats, armed and equipped.** 

Sunday^ Jvly 1 . Our mess went in a body to the mast 
with a request that I might be detailed as their steady cook 
with the usual free ration as pay for the extra duty. They 
liked my way of fixing up extras when I have taken their 
cook's place. They were told they could have me, but that 
I, would be sent to do the duty of sick or absent men when 
needed. They accepted the comlition. From 7 A. M. to 
to 5 P. M. I am excused from ordinary deck duty. News 
from Austrian sources speak of a four days' fight between 
Anstrians and Prussians resnlting in favor of the Austriaas. 
(Neveiiheless I believe they lost a part of a province as a 
resaltof their **victory.") 

Monday J July 2. ^ ^ Away all l»oats, armed and equipped !" 
rang out just after 5 P. M. A stranger standing upon oar 



AWAY ALL BOATS, ASMED AMD EQUIPPED ! 161 

deck over the Captain's cabin woald have thought we were 
suffering a panic as he saw the ship's company rushing in all 
directions, no one regarding another's doings, until as if bj 
magic they are seen clustered at the sides of the boats that 
hang at the davits, one man at each boat with his arms full 
,of Sharp's rifles, another with Colt's revolvers, a tnird loaded 
^ith belts having cutlasses and filled cartridge boxes for the 
rifle and revolver of each man of his boat, a fourth with a bag 
of hardbread, another one having seen that the boat's breaker 
(water-keg) was filled, the coxswain with the boat's compass, 
and marines with fixed bayonets stand beside the men at the 
boat's falls. The midshipman of each boat sees that every 
man has provided the articles allotted him, and the oflScer of 
the boat has his sidearms, perspective glass, and signal book. 
When everything is ready he reports his boat ready for being 
lowered. In the meantime others who are to i*emain on the 
ship are preparing to lower the howitzers into the bows of 
the two largest boats. All being reported ready the order 
comes to ^^Lower away !" Down go the boats, the men and 
marines are in them with their ofliicers. the rowers have the 
oars in hand, and before a person a few rods distant could 
recover from surprise at the sudden exhibition of life the 
smaller boats are in line waiting for the adjustment of the 
howitzers in the bows of the launches. That required but 
a few moments, when they joined our line and we rowed in 
line about the harbor in compliance with signals fix>m the 
1st launch ; occasionally those not rowing would be required 
to use howitzers and rifles upon the imaginary foe we were 
attacking. An American merchantman was boarded by us. 
They met us in fine style with cold water from their force- 
pump as we appeared over the side of the ship. We had a 
merry time before the pump was captured. Elated with our 
success we then turned our attention to the small foil at the 



162 BIY KOVIKO LIKK. 

tbe lighthonse. We formed in line a short distance from 
the fort and opened fire. The sentry gave the alarm, the 
garrison rushed to their guns and returned our fire by going 
through the evolutions as ire were doing. Jt was a drill to 
them, and probably arrangements had been made with them 
and with our merchant ship previous to our staiting. We 
were recalled from the attack by signal from the ship and 
retreated in confusion, — raced for the ship. The launches 
being encumbered with their guns per force '^covered our 
retreat." We had enjoyed the exercise greatly. The mens* 
liberty is stopped because tbe others are not all off yet. A 
part of the marines are expecting logo ashore to-morrow. 

WedneAdai/^ July 4, 1866, We hoisted ensigns at each 
masthead and at the peak with the jack at the bowsprit at 
sunrise, and crossed to'galiant yards at the same time. At 
eight o'clock the English ram Evtei-prise^ ( built by the Laird*s 
for the rebels) hoisted our ensi^rn at the main and trimmed 
with a gauntline of signal flags from the bowsprit over the 
mastheads to the spanker boom end. Not having a set of 
small guns they recognized our natal day thus instead of by 
firing a salute with us at noon. We did not trim with a 
gauntline probably because we wanted to use our bunting 
to decorate tbe quarter deck for a ballroom under its awning. 
]n order to give a clear space for dancing tbe after pivot 
was run forward out of the way, the two big guns pivoted to 
tbe forward gun's firing sockets. Trained sharply forward 
tbey gave to that part of our deck an extremely formidable 
appearance and impressed visitors forcibly with our power. 
Flags of all nations were hung from the edges' of tbe awn- 
ing as side screens, with a border of festooned signal flags ; 
our own ensigns formed looped entrance curtains from the 
gangways ; chandeliers were made of hoops with bayonets 
fastened to them for candlesticks, the bright blades glistening 



A BALL. ^^TBIS MEANS WAR, GEKTLEMEN I" 1$^ 

vfiih reflecting light ; and cntlaeees, pistols and muskets wev^ 
arranged in rarions ornamental designs about the qtiarter- 
deck. A band from ashore made the music, and Anstriap 
belles with English and American ladies were the attractive 
features of the enteitainment. As the dancing went on the 
screens at the gangways were removed to give fresh air and 
we before the mast could get a good view of the perfoimers. 
We thought we could pick out the American ladies by the 
refined features and can-iage common to all native America^ 
wom«ii, and even our Irish American shipmates bragged of 
the beauty of our countrywomen. The officers of the ErUer- 
prise seemed by their selection of partners to have the same 
plieference over even their own countrywomen, and after we 
had seen these types together we did not wonder that many 
ti^ed foreigners select American wives to grace their anoes- 
tral homes. There is a history connected with this ship 
Ehi^erprise that ought to be an object lesson to all our future 
DipkraiBts and Administrations having to deal with England. 
This ^hOerprise was built for the Rebels, having armor for a 
short 'distance each side of the water line and armed with 
two 100-pdr. rifles and four broadside gnns. She was all 
ready to go to sea as a rebel ci'uiser to prey upon our com- 
merce. Our Minister, Charles Francis Adams, protested 
•against her being allowed to go to sea and was coolly told in 
diplomatio language that there was no law in their statutes 
to interfere with her doing so. At the commencement of 
the rebellion Secretary Sewam had felt that we were in no 
condition to accept a war with England, but at this time we 
were able to say *' You Musi r Mr. Adams' short answer : 
'"''This means war^ Oentlefiien f *' was vei'y effective. Orders 
to* stop her were issued within an hour and she was bought 
by- the British Government. The two occurrences should be 
c^bject lessons showing that the United States should have a 



164 MT ROVING LIKK. 

navy of sofficient power to enable us to say ^^ You must" 
at any time. For dinner to-day we had nothing better than 
the bean soup from the ship's coppers, but for supper I gqX 
another kettlef ni of the soup of what would have been thrown 
awa^ by the ship's cook and adding some of the canned beef 
lying behind the mess chest made for them our forefathers' 
national dish of bean porridge. Many of them had ^^never 
tasted the likes" and pushed their twcf^H^uart pans up for a 
second dose. Some of the men paiced off and utilized the 
dancing music aft for a bail of their own under the to'gallant 
forecastle, but the port watch of foretopmen were more of a 
mind to look on and ^^ ruminate." 

Tkurmlay^ July 5, 1866. News comes that the Italians 
are concentrating a large naval force to attack Pola, a naval 
station of the Austrians 100 miles south of Trieste. We 
expect to go down to witness the fight. 

Sunday^ July 8. Several of our liberty men ai*e still on 
shore a week over their time. E. J. Phillips, our Ship's 
Writer is one of them. He is English born and intensely 
rebel in his sympathies. Being also a college graduate it 
has seemed strange that he should have entered the service 
at all. It is blowing a gale from the northeast, a fair wind 
for going to sea, and we did so at 1 P. M. without starting 
fires. It calmed down to a light breeze l)efore sunset. The 
men left ashore at Trieste number five desertions since the 
restrictions and fancy business commenced, though the de- 
sertion of the ship's writer could uot be for these reasons as 
they did not affect him. 

Monday^ JtUy 9. An Austrian ram in fighting trim came 
out from Pola this morning to investigate our character. 
They know the ship well enough as far as they can see us, 
but they must come dose to us so as to make sure. Her 
oflScers saluted with ours by mutually touching caps and at 



AMCONA. ITAUAN PU»T. TRIE8TE AGAIN. 105 

once retunied to her stiition. We soon after set Bquareeaiis 
and started steasi, beading across to the Italian coast. At 
5 P. M. all bands were called to bnng ship to anchor at An- 
cona and at 10 P. M. we had her safely tied op close to the 
shore with several hawsers astern and two anchore oat with 
1Q5 fathoms of chain to each, all in eighteen feet of water. 
Wednesday^ July 11, 1866. The ship's writer's berth is 
given to a man named Berry, an English coalbeaver and a 
rabid rebel sympathiser. It is a noticeable fact that our 
petty officers are foreignei*6 as a body, yet the cry is raised 
that native Americans refuse to enter or remain in our naval 
service. Let all commands and executive offices on board 
our naval vessels be given to foreigners in preference to our 
native born officei*s and see how quickly the naval service 
will become distasteful to our Annapolis graduates. Men 
of American birth abhor foreign rule fully as strongly as an 
officer can. Three ironclads and a wooden frigate came in 
for coal and went to sea again when coaled. At 5 : 30 P. 
M. we commenced to heave in on our cables and got under 
weigh soon after 7 o'clock. Just outside we met a dispatch 
boat towing into port a disabled gunlnrnt and found the fleet 
of eleven Italian rams, five wooden frigates, and six smaller 
gunboata under steam. One of them returned our salute. 
We were given new fii*e quarters this afternoon. While we 
wei*e mastered under Mr. Wadleigh Mr. AUyn read to us 
our new stations in a tone too low for me to hear and this 
was repeated by Mr. W. to each in the same tone. As Mr. 
AUyn was walking away I turned my left ear to the man 
next to me and asked what my station was. He shouted, 
^^ Pumps!** loud enough to be heard over the ship, causing 
the 1st Luff to turn to see who had committed such a breach 
of discipline, but taking in the situation he went aft with a 
broad grin on. We were soon called to our stations by the 



166 MT ROVING LflfC. 

rapid strokes of the bell and exercised a short time to see if 
each man understood his separate duty. We then exercised 
at shifting topsails, the new topsails being set with topgal- 
lant sails above them in six minutes^ Both foremastmen 
were badly hurt by the topsail coming down upon them with 
a rush as they stood beneath. We fastened to moorings at 
Trieste about 6 : 30 P. M. 

Friday^ Juhj 13^ 18^6, 1 got the barber to trim my 
whiskers after supper, but he trimmed them so short that I 
had him shave them clean, and they are all laughing at my 
lantern jaws, and at evening quarters even the officers, with 
suppres«ied smiles, call each others' attention to my changed, 
though not improved, appearance. I could draw my whisk« 
ers over my eyes before removing them. They were hot and 
troublesome about my mess work» The papers ashore say 
that Capt. Steaduian has been promoted to Commodore. 

Sunda^fj July 15. The sentence of a court martial was 
read in the case of a man named Smith for absence without 
leave. (Overstaying his liberty.) He is to have 30 days of 
confinement in double irons cin bread and water, and to lo<ie 
all pay due him. Being in debt, though a petty officer, that 
part of the sentence W8S remitted. He is a Vii^inian.* It 
is reported that Austria has given to France the Province of 
Venetia, boping by the move to appease Italy, to whom the 
French are to transfer it, and thus enable Austria to throw 
ber whole force against Prussia. The Italians accepted the 
gift but adhere to their treaty with Prussia, and it is even 



o I think this was Chief BoaUirain's Mate Smith, who was disrated about this time 
for oTerstayiDg his liberty till the police brought him aboard la dtisen's rig. He at 
one time told me his real name was Stuart and he was a nephew of General J. S. B. 
IHaart, of the rebel cavalry, and a son of Judge Stuart, of Fauquier County. He was 
a quiet man and attended to hU dutf without being overi>aaring. He said he had no 
intention of overstaying or of getting Into citla»*s rig. Bam did it Mr. AUya was 
severely strict In his discipline as regards drunkenness and especially so with his 
petty oOcerSk requiring them to set a gool example before the rostof the men. 



METACOMET'S old XJIUNCBMEN NOT SKULK^^Ra. 167 

rumored that the Italian fleet is hovering outside of Trieste 
and may soon attack the place. It has been a very ^arm 
day indeed. 

Monday^ July 16^ 1866. Last evening was very sultry 
and though my hammock was close to the hatchway I could 
not sleep. I went on deck at eleven o'clock and joined the 
"caulkers" trying to get some sleep on the bare deck. The 
air was very heavy even on deck. A thunder storm was in 
full blast out at sea. On its reaching us we found it to be 
wind and lightning with very little rain. Mr. Clark had the 
deck and gave orders to pay out fifteen fathoms of the moor- 
ing chain and to clear away the starboard auchor for letting 
go. Instantly there was a rush to get below away from the 
work that would require but a few men for a few minutes. 
After the anchor was dropped these men started to return to 
the deck but found a marine at each ladder with a bayonet in 
his hand. They couldn't come up. Mr. Clark took a good 
look at those who. stayed on deck to do their duty, to know 
on whom he could depend. He found them almost to a man 
native born Americans, and nee found that the three launch- 
mates of the Meta^comeVs old crew were among the number. 
After the marines were withdrawn those below came skulk- 
ing up, but we were in possession of the best places. 

Tuesday^ July 17, We exercised at all boats' armed and 
equipped, at this time providing everything required for an 
extended trip : — a tool box containing an ax, hatchet, saw, 
hammer, nails, tacks, sheet lead, marlinspike, spun yarn, a 
palm, needles and twine, lead line, lantern, candles, tinder 
box, flint and steel, fishhooks and lines, trailing lines and 
muffling mats for oara, chisels, bitts and brace. This box 
fitted under the thwarts. For provisions we had hardbread, 
canned beef, and cans representing coffee and sugar packed 
in a mess kettle with pans and spoons. In one of the boats 




168 MY ROTING LIPK. 

was a medicine cbest, and each boat had its gn4)nels and 
lines for anchoring, besides the arms and ammanitton. In 
passing a bag of revolvers into the Ist launch boatswain's 
mate Jack Williams and qnartermaster Bishop lost the bag 
of fifteen pistols overboard, from Bishop's not being on hand 
when the order was given to '^ Down boats and man them." 

Wednesday^ July 18^ 1866. Submarine divers have been 
at work to recover the bag of revolvers lost yesterday. On 
one of the ridges to the north of the city 
and in sight from our anchorage is a monu- 
ment said to l>e upon the spot where Na- 
poleon Bonaparte brought his forces to a 
stand and after his army had suffered from 
sickness to a great extent withdrew without 
making any attempt to take the city. »poeon 

Tuesday^ July 2 i. Yesterday afternoon we were warping 
the ship around a few points at a time while the officers tested 
the accuracy of the compasses. To-day all our boats were 
armed and equipped again. Rumor reaches us of the loss 
of the Shamrock and the safety of her crew at Messina. 

Saturday^ July 28. We slipped our moorings at 8 P. 
M. last night bound for Venice and anchored at nine o*cloek 
this morning some distance below the city. At 1 P. M. we 
up anchor and felt our way up to the city. We took a berth 
nearly abreast of the Doge's palace and quite near the land- 
ing. Our boat landed the consul at his door. These canal 
streets seem very odd to us. 

Sunday^ July 29. Our decks are crowded with visitors, 
gondolas plying to and from the ship with full loads. We 
wonder at the accuracy with which these gondolas are steered 
about in a crowd with so little room to spai*e that one could 
step from boat to boat while the oar is still in action. The 
^wer stands upon a platform near the stern of the gondola 



OUR SHIP CROWDED WITH VISITORS. 169 

and rows with a pushing motion, keeping the blade under 
water while bringing it forward nicely feathered for a new 
stroke. Old Ti was given to our consul at Trieste and the 
monkey is disconsolate. He will not allow any strangers to 
come near him. 

Monday^ July 30^ 1866. Our <lecks have been crowded 
with visitors again since ten o'clock. I counted seventy-five 
gondolas around us at one time, and as each gondola would 
average ten passengers to a trip and made two trips an hour 
some idea of the number visiting us during the day may be 
formed. I stood at the foot of one of the berth deck (step) 
ladders for a long time taking the hands of ladies to assist 
them down, another man being at the other ladder and we 
were kept busy by a continual stream of them. Others of 
the mess cooks relieved us when we were tired, and steadied 
the guests in the most polite manner, to the evident delight 
of our officers, pleased that a good impression of the char- 
acter of the ship's crew as well as the ship would ^o abroad. 

Tuesday^ July 81. One would think that the whole sur- 
rounding country bad turned out to do us honor. Our ship 
i« more densely crowded than yesteiday. The visitors are 
first class and they include many Americans. An estimate 
of 20,000 visitors since our arrival would be clearly within 
bounds. Tourists must have flocked to Venice to see us. 

Wednesday^ Aug. 1 . Several of us were on a four hours' 
leave ashore to-day. Four of us secured a guide and telling 
him how shoii: our time was put ourselves under his cai*e to 
show us the most noted objects. We first visited the Ducal 
Palace. The outside of this building is highly ornamented 
with carved work at all parts that could possibly allow its 
use. Entering by an arched gateway from the Riva Schia* 
voni, a broad, street-like landing, we found ourselves in a 
large courtyard with a fountain in the center and several fine 



I. 

1 



k 



it 



V.i 



ASHOHE in VENICE. 171 

BUtnee. We vere led to Ibe right op a flight of etepe to a 
Terandah that extended BTonnd tbe thrre eidee of the bnilding 
looking upon tbe courtj&rd, an angle of the Church of St., 
Mark forming tbe fourth side. From this verandah doors 
led into rooms and halla of the building. Here artiste were 
copying some of tbe famous paintings that covered the walls 
and ceilings. We were shown into tbe Hall of Judgment. 
None dared dist>bey a summons to appear before the dread 
Secret Tribunal within this gloomy chamber, from which tbe 
condemned crossed Tbe Bridge of Sighs to be seen no more. 



And We "stood upon the Bridge of Sighs" mode famous 
by Byron's verse, and from its windows overlooking a canal 






ST. MABK'S CHUBCH and CAMPANILE TOWEK. 



FOUR HOURS IN YEKICE. 173 

daw a palace or a prison od either band. The small bridge 
in the foreground with its stone steps and railing is similar 
to all that we saw in the city. The Bridge of Sighs is the 
one connecting the second story of the palace at the left with 
the upper story of the prison at the right. Retracing onr steps 
we saw in one room portraits of the long line of Doges, but 
that of the traitor at the head of the stairs leading down to 
the Ducal Library has been effaced by a coat of black paint. 
.At the foot of these stairs we entered a long gallery lighted 
by lamps and leading into the library. Shelves, and counter 
cases filled this large space. 1 noticed many manuscripts in 
Greek characters within these cases and among works on the 
shelves in various other languages were Repoits printed by 
our own Government. Returning by the same way, which 
I think must be an undt^rground passage as the Ducal Library 
is a separate building opposite the palace, we re-entered 
the palace and emerged by the hall of paintings first seen. 
In the courtyard our attention was directed to the angle of 
St. Mark*s Church that forms the fourth side of the court- 
yard. The statues and canned or chiseled work were very 
fine, though some were too true to nature to pass muster in 
our New England clime. Passing through a small gate we 
entered a street parallel to the Riva Schiavoni. There was 
no need to call our attention to the angle of St. Mark's upon 
this street, for it was of a character to rivet the attention of 
the most indifferent obsei*ver. Only by a photc^raph can an 
idea of it be gained. A view of the front of the church on 
the opposite page will show its character. Our guide hurried 
us on to see this Grand Front of St. Mark's and the Campa- 
nile Tower in the Grand Square. The R\e great arches are 
profusely ornamented in the stone by the chisel. On the 
level, pebble-paved square stands the lofty Campanile Tower, 
the breeding place for innumerable doves that are dail^ fed 



174 Mt BOVINO tirK. 

with li^aiii Bcatterect on the pavement. Betireen the palace 
and library are seen the two columns of St. Theodore and 
the Winged Lion of Venice near the edge of the landing 
(seen on pf^^e 170) from which the old Venetian naval ar- 
maments embarked upon their expeditions and the D(^eB 
annually took their barge to go in procession to wed the sea. 
The finest objects to be seen are the four Bronze Horses 



standing upOD a gallery above the central grand arch, and 
said to t>e trophies from Jerusalem. Within the church we 
found the floor paved with small smooth pebbles of various 
hues laid in mosaic patterns, and many arches upheld the 
tbree great domes. These domes are conspicuons objects 



FOCB BOUliS IK TSI^ICK. 175 

twm an;, point of view. From the inside of the church we 
see glasB pitnek iMWind their baset giving a dim \ighi to the 
interior of the great building. Upon these panels are painted 
rei^nesentationfl of aH the Saints in the calender. Judging 
bf their features sqme of them might be anything but saintly. 
Our attention was called to several noted relies, among them 
the atone upon which Jolin the Baptist's head was cut off. 
I grieved our guide by remarking that they took some pains 
to provkle such a hard stone instead of a wooden chopping 
block which would not have dulled the ax so badly. The 
stone looked JQSt like-a piece of whiti quartz with broad red 
streaks, and there was no avoiding the conclusion thatit was 
selected to deceive the credolona. He shewed us no more 
relics. We next visited the Church of Sts. Stephen and 
PauL Its great attraction consisted in its exquisite marble 
statuettes representing The Three Wise Men bringing gifts 
to the Babe in the Manger, and Christ Disputing with the 
XKMStors. In the first servants were unloading the camels, 
one camel being in the act of nibbling the top of a cactus, 
while the ox in the next stall was turning his head sidewise 
to look over the partition at the babe in its mother's arms. 
Jn the ottier the boy Christ was standing in an elevated pul- 
pit evidently holding his auditors spellbound at his words, 
their countenances showing consternation as well aa wonder. 
One of the doctors was about to turn over a leaf of an open 
book upon his knee while looking up at the boy with a very 
puzzled brow, his left elbow crumpling the lower comers of 
several leaves in his confusion. Two others were looking 
intently over his shoulders, the one at the right an-esting the 
tuiiiing of the leaf with one hand and pointing to a passage 
on the printed page with the other ; and the little boy, Christ 
in the pulpit was calmly confounding them by his superior 
knowledge of the Scriptures, paying no heed to the advance 



176 HT RorniQ lifs. 

of hifl mother and meraben of tbe f Amity in the distftDce ; for 
He vaa kbout His Fstiier's business. Hie fignrefl wen not 
over eighteen inches Id lieigtit, but (he attitudea were very 
"ipemklng" rad the work ezqalsite. The boilding had lew 
pretentioDB to ependor than that of St. if aik, bat tbeM two 
worka of the devout sculptor bcdill Uore inttaeooe for a true 
knowledge of the Savior than alt the splMwlors of flie other. 
Conaected with Ibis chm^ Is a hospital, white with tbe first, 
Ibroogh the pntice, is a eonnectioii with a dismal dongson. 
Tbeone was R^'sbow, the other wean to have been devised 
to promote the welfare'of man. Taklog another covrse by 
way of the narrow paved klleys idstead of the eanab we 
came to the Grand Canal at ItH fkaKMa bridge, Ri«M» ttaat 



aauum OAMAt. tm wmammo. 

Wpana the width of about thkty yards by a single flat nroh. 
The roadway of this bridge Is a series of stone steps about 
eight or ten feet iq width with a covered ardwd stall at the 
sides of eacU step of a aingle atone. As no vehicles are in 



ATLANTIC CABLE A SUCCESS. BATTLE AT LIS8A. 



177 



use CD land in this city of canals and aUeys they have no need 
to provide sidewalks. This space on the bridge is occupied 
by stalls for sale of cnrios or trifles that are eagerly sought by 
tonrista as sonvenirs of their visit. I got a bead-work bag 
and white and mixed-colored shell-and-bead-work ornaments 
to coil about the heads of the loveil ones at home, not for- 
getting to lay in a set of twenty five photographs of noted 
points from which I have selected those copied to illustrate 
this, my diary. We returned to the ahip at sundown highly 
pleased with our four hours in Venice, every man on time, 
^^clean and sober.'* We were a talkative ci*ew that evening. 

ThuiBday^ Ang.2^ 1S66. We returned to Trieste. The 
war with Pioissia is said to be ended, but that with Italy is 
to go on. 

Wednesday^ Aug. 8. News comes of the successful oper* 
ation of the Atlantic Cable. Our monkey has received a 
complete sailor suit. He seemed pleased at first. At our- 
quarters this morning he was sitting upon the lever of the 
pumps abreast of our gun and becoming dissatisfied with its 
restraint upon the free use of his finger nails upon his back 
he attempted to pull his frock over his head without first 
loosening the necktie, resulting in his ^^ bagging his head." 
At this he became belligerant, lost his balance and fell over 
backward but clung by his feet and hung chattering with 
rage, none daring to leave their quarters to assist him, or to 
even smile at his ludicrous predicament. At reti^eat from 
quarters he got lielp to replace the frock upon his back, the 
men then getting away quickly. Last night the Captain 
gave a supper to some civilians, and the crews of the 1st and 
Srd cuttera were kept up till eleven o'clock to put the guests 
ashore. The boats' crews were allowed five minutes to go 
with the guests but they stayed a half-hour to ^'go with each 
other," dodging the midshipnpan from one saloon to another. 



178 MT ROVING LIFE. 

The guests must have been liberal for the crews of both the 
boats came off in a state that caused them to be blacklisted 
and their spending money stopped. 

Thursday^ Aug. 9, 1866. When Mr. Clark was showing 
some ladies the beith deck he pointed oat oar mess chests as 
belonging to a certain number of men called a mess, and we 
who were standing beside the chests were called mess cooks. 
** We call them cooks but they do no cooking ; they draw 
the day's rations, prepare them for cooking by the ship' cook, 
and wash the dishes." I think he must have had Brennick 
in his mind*s eye at tne time. Brennick is acting as cook 
of the mess next ours. He wanted to borrow our mill, saying 
*' I have to grind some coffee ; but I don't know how it will 
grind, for it seems rather damp.'' I looked and found it 
was raw coffee. I told him it would have to be roasted first. 
He exclaimed '* The Old Harry take the stuff; they have 
bought a dozen pounds of it and I will have to pitch it over- 
board, for 1 can't roast it." (He comes from the blue-nose 
country where coffee doesn't grow.) I bad just roasted a 
lot of it for him to grind as Mr. Clark came along. 

Saturday^ Aug. 11. The Austrian fleet came in to-day 
in the teeth of a norther after a great battle with the Italian 
fleet at Lissa off the Dalmatian coast about 150 miles south 
of here. There were twelve sidewheel vessels of various 
sizes, five armored ram frigates, seven woodeti frigates, and 
a liue-of-battle ship. They have received severe damages. 
One of them has lost her pi*ow and all masts but the mizzen. 
They were forced to run every heavy weight aft to keep her 
afloat. This is the first battle with the new plow-pointed 
bows for ramming and the effects produced, and injur}^ to an 
assailant will probably be studied from this actual test. If 
the Italians lost the day they did not lose their honor. 

Monday^ Aug. 13. We commenced to coal ship before 



SALUTE THE EMPEROR. PROMOTION OF OFFICERS. 179 

breakfast. We hoisted the American ensign at the fore and 
mizzen mastheads with the Austrian ensign at the main and 
sahited the Emperor of Austria as he passed us in his steam 
yacht on his way to inspect his fleet, which was anchored in 
the bay south of Lighthouse Point. Rain commenced to 
pour in torrents at noon, interfering with our coaling. At 
tattoo this evening we succeeded in getting up a band from 
among the ship's crew. We have had two fifes and two tenor 
drums for some time. To-night we added a bass drum and 
cymbals, making the ship quite noisical if not musical. 

Wednesday, Aug, 15, 1866. Our ship's company were 
drawn up by divisions on the port side of the deck, with 
eight sideboys at the gangway, and the marines drawn up on 
the quarter deck to receive some high naval official and his 
suite. The after pivot gun's crew were called to quarters to 
show them the working of that gun. They showed great 
interest in its working and pivoting. We learn that lA . Snell 
and Lt. Terry have been promoted to Lt. Commanders. A 
while ago Ensigns Wadleigh and Dichmau received their 
promotions to Masters, and now Ensigns Clark and Wright 
are made Masters. Among our Line officers we have : — 

1 Commodore, Steadman, 7-stripes on cuffs, formerly 6 

3 Lt. Commanders, Allyn, 4-8tnpes, *' 4 

Snell, " " " 3 

Terry. " " " 3 

4 Masters, Wadleigh, 2 " " 1 

Dichman, 2 " " 1 

Clark, 2 " "1 

Wright. 2 " "1 

2 Midshipmen, DeLong, * »» * 

Hitchcock.* " * 

We thus have among our line officers neither Captain, Com- 
mander, Lieutenant, nor Ensign. In the Staff we have a full 



J 



180 MT ROTING LliTE. 

Commander, in Surg. Gannel, 5-8tripes, and other grades in 
the Engineer's department. We on deck have no connection 
with the la9t or the Lieutenant of Marines. A coalheaver, 
named Deets, finds that an Engineer officer has some power 
over him, for he has jnst been pnt in double irons on bread 
and water for ^'disregarding the order of the officer of the 
watch in the engine room until a third time ordered to resume 
his work, and then insolently saying ^ he would be done as 
soon as auy of them.'" He will be court-martialed. 

Friday, Aug. 17, 1S66. The Minerva, No. 52, of the 
Lloyd Bros.' mail line came in from Constantinople and was 
quarantined on account of cholera at that place. The Eng- 
lish steamer from Alexandria a few days ago received the 
same treatment, a yellow flag at the fore-mast-head. 

Saturday, Aug. IS. It is the birthday of the Emperor 
of Austria and we were called at 4 A. M. to trim the ship 
with a guancline of flags from the bowsprit over the mast- 
heads to tbe end of the spanker boom. We run it up at 
sunrise and fired a national salute at noon. The Austrian 
fleet fired a grand salute at sunrise and each hour of tbe day 
a single ship saluted. While we were hoisting the catamaran 
float used iu washing the outside of the ship this morning 
the falls parted and Sehofield fell with it to the water. His 
arm was broken and he was hurt otherwise so that he would 
have sunk bad not Trainor jumped overboard and rescued 
him. We took in water. 

Monday, Aug. 20, 1866. The twenty-fifth anniversary 
df my first entering the navy. What a contrast between my 
present grade in tbe navy and what it might have been had 
I waited a few weeks and filled the midshipman vacancy by 
the promotion of my brother's chum and our schoolmate who 
became Assistant Secretary of the Navy during the war and 
is now a captain. In that case I might have outranked all 



8AIX.F0B'CANDIA. 181 

bot one officer in this ship. Boye in their impatience to do 
^'^something big" rarely adopt the beet method for attaining 
the desired reiralt. Their choice more often destroye their 
opportnnitiea for advancement throagh life. Let every boy 
who reads this ponder well before making his choice. We 
sailed for Candia late this afternoon, making a circuit of the 
Austrian fleet lying in the other bay, saluting by three dips 
of our ensigns. The band on the Admiral's ship also gave 
us their version of ^^Hail Ck>lumbia*' as we passed. 

ThurMlay^ Aug. 23^ 1866. 1 was excused from duty last 
night on account of the pain in my ear. I took laudanum 
but got no sleep. My restless turnings caused my hammock 
lanyard to part, but a nian lying upon the deck beneath me 
broke the force of my fall so that I was not hurt. The im- 
pact woke him from his sleep with a yell. Corporal Hooper, 
of the marines, bad been dreaming of trying to fire one of 
our IX-inch guns at an approaching enemy but it hung fire. 
He hftd pulled the lanyard a second time and after hanging 
fire a moment it went off rather unexpectedly to him. The 
noise of its supposed explosion was the yell of the man that 
I fell upon. It awoke him as he sprang out of his hammock 
to avoid the supposed recoil of the gun. Hearing some one 
say, '^Are you hurt much?" and also hurried trampling of 
the watch on deck taking in sail he fitted the whole into his 
tlream and thought some one was hurt by the recoil of the 
gun he had fired. It «ras quite a while befoie others could 
convince him he had been dreaming. This morning we were 
opposite Brindisi, (Brundusium,) running along the Italian 
coast upon the long flat tongue of land which forms the heel 
of the Italian *^boot." Keeping on the same southeasterly 
course, at 4 P. M. the Grecian highlands were in sight on 
our port beam, with fine weather and all studdingsails set. 

Friday^ Aug. 24. At midnight last night the long roll 



182 MT ROVING LIFK. 

called us to quai*ter8 for powder drill. The watch on deck 
cast loose and provided everything required for a fight with 
the gans so that when the watch below had hurriedly dressed 
and had lashed up and stowed their hammocks they had only 
to take their places beside us for the officers to report their 
respective guns ready for action. (1 think that the big guns 
were loaded, then run out and secured.) We passed Cape 
Matapan at 4 A. M. 

Sunday^ Aug. 26^ 1866, The wind began to rise this 
morning and the sea responded quickly. We had supposed 
we were to go into the harbor of Candia, but instead we ran 
into the little bay of Sudi just beyond, the head of which is 
within two miles of the city of Candia. We passed the fort 
at the entrance long before sundown and steamed silently in 
without a pilot. As we neared two Turkish men-p'-war, one 
a frigate of 50 guns, the other a lOO-gnn ship, we dropped 
a kedge astern and then anchored between thd two without 
recognition of any kind, and kept our ensign flying all night. 
A boat from one of the ships came alongside to learn our 
business and how long we intended to remain in our present 
position, and why we did not salute. We heard the Captain 
say ^ ^According to the regulations of the United States Navy 
we are not allowed to use our big guns in salute.'' These 
unusual occurrences led us to conclude that we might have 
a sudden call to use the contents of those big guns and our 
gun captains bad agreed upon certain spots in each ship for 
targets, sure that our close range would enable us to smash 
in their wooden sides at the first discharge. We realized the 
advantage of our position in that not all their guns could be 
depressed to injure us without also hitting their own consort. 
The Turkish officer had remained in his boat and must have 
seen our saluting guns just over the heads of his men. A 
shoit time after this the Arethusa^ nn English frigate lying 






WE PROTECT OUR COV8I7L AT CAKDIA. 188 

io port fire<l a salute of eeveD gaoa with the Aicerican fisg 
flying at the foremast head. That meant that our consal bad 
just left her side and we at once understood that our business 
here related to our consul who had evidently been compelled 
to take refuge on board the British frigate with his wife and 
child. The British Consul came to our ship with them in one 
of the Arelhum^s boats. We found our consul to be Colonel 
Maggi, of one of our Massachusetts regiments. Late in the 
evening the 1st cutter, armed and equipped, under command 
of Mr* Dichman, accompanied by Dr. Gunnel took the con* 
sul and his family ashore and remained over night to guard 
them, the British consul going with them. We noticed that 
the Arethusa lay in a good position to rake the Turks, and 
her boat's crew assured us they were all ready to help. The 
cause of the trouble we did not know. We knew we had a 
duty to perform and trusted to the guidance of our officers 
that we would be required to meet no unnecessary danger. 

Tuesday, Aug. 28, 1866. We lay all the day ycctterday 
between the two Turkish vessels, with no work going on and 
the men almost spoiling for a fight, ready to spring to their 
guns at the first tap of the drum. This morning, however, 
we noticed that our oflScers had relaxed their watchfulness 
and concluded that the' Turks had complied with our demand, 
whatever it was. When Capt. Steadman went on board the 
two ships and received their salutes this forenoon we knew 
the trouble was settled. Jn return the Turkish Admiral and 
quite a number of his oflScers visited us at noon. The yards 
were manned to receive him and a salute fired. Our Consul 
had come on board with the 1st cutter's crew and when the 
Turks left us they took him with them and the frigate gave 
him a consul's salute. We then shifted our moorings from 
between them. 

Wednesday, Aug. 29. We up anchor at 10 P. M. last 



184 MT ROVING LIFK. 

night. The moon shone fall and bright as we went oat so 
that we got qaile a good view of the bay. The wind ix)se to 
a gale before morning^and continued all day. My ears got 
up steam about sundown and I had to get stoppers of cotton 
saturated with laudanum in them before going on watch. 

Thursday^ Aug. 30, 1866. Another blow set in last 
night and we make slow progress against the gale. We did 
not reach Syra until 7 : 30 this morning. Several barrels of 
both flour and dried apples were condemned as unfit for use 
as food and thrown overboard. Some of the dried apples 
were marked as purchased in September, 1863, and all were 
infested by small flies and their maggots. Some of the dour 
required only the addition of soda and water to effervesce, 
and had plenty of weevils and grubs to stock the whole of 
the ship's stoi-es. Our provisions received from the store* 
ship at Lisbon were evidently gleanings from the vessels of 
the returned blockading squadrons. I have achieved an un* 
enviable notoriety with the Paymaster and his Steward, the 
latter laying to my account the request of the mess cooks to 
have their bread weighed out to them in the light of day in 
stead of in the bread-room where they could not see the 
weights. He says there was no complaint until I went to 
the berth deck to cook, and then within a foitnight my beef 
was taken to the mast as short in weight. (It was proved 
short.) His statement was made at the mast in answer to 
our request, implying that I was the unreasonable instigator 
of all the complaints. The Master-at-arms, however, told 
Mr. Allyn that it was the general desire of the men as well 
as of all the cooks to see the weights. Mr. Allyn decided 
that our request was reasonable, and that the bread barrels 
be hoisted upon deck and the net weights upon their heads 
be taken down by a petty-officer for comparison with the 
amount to which the rations entitled us. We were perfectly 



HELD AT THK DABBAKELLE&. 185 

satisfied and answered Mr. Allyn to that effect. At 8 P. 
M. the gale is blowing with unabated fur^^, but we go to sea 
to-night. I have had little chance to see the city, which is 
built upon the sheltered side of the hill farther within the 
bay than our anchorage. Upon a contiguous spur beyond is 
another portion or suburb of the city. Upon the point of a 
bench jutting out seaward are several windmills flying round 
furiously in the gale. The little inner bay is crammed full 
of vessels of all classes. The mailboat from Constantinople 
is flying the yellow flag of quarantine. The boats' crews 
find hard, wet pulling against the gale when coming from the 
city, for the protection is but partial at our anchorage. We 
went to sea at 4 P. M. 

Friday^ Aug. 31^ 1866, The ship made good speed all 
day and at 7 P. M, we dropped our anchor close in to the 
Asiatic shore below the mouth of the Hellespont between the 
shore and the Island of Tenedos, having passed the fort on 
the island and the lighthouse in mid channel. The site of 
ancient Troy is somewhere abreast of us, above is Abydos, 
and opposite is Imbnos and the Peninsula of Cheraonessus. 
There is a pleasure tinged with sadness in looking at shores 
that have seen so many vicissitudes and become so famous 
in history now lying desolate and groaning under the heel of 
a despotic and barely civilized government. 

Saturday^ Sept, 1, We got under weigh at 4 A. M. in 
hopes to reach Constantinople before dark and steamed up 
the swift current past fort after fort until we reached the 
town of Dardanelles, where every vessel is required to stop 
and obtain leave of the Sultan before going farther. We 
shackled to moorings on finding no telegraphic answer to our 
request by telegraph. We are daily hoisting up provisions 
to serve out and finding them unfit for use. The pork that 
we received yesterday under protest had scented the whole 



186 mr roving lifb. 

ship BO this morning that our officers ordered it to be thrown 
overboard and good served in its stead. 

Sunday^ Sept. 2, 1866. I judge that we have already 
come higher than allowed, for we slipped our moorings and 
dropped down a mile below the fort and came to anchor in 
the stream. It may be that they are paying us off for ouc 
late disrespectful actions at Sudi. (Some years after this I 
learned from an officer of the ship that the fort at the en- 
trance to the harbor of Sudi fired across the bow of the ship 
as she was about to enter just after sundown.) They did 
not seem to have the best of feeling toward the Ticonderoga. 

Tuesday^ Sept. 4. We are still waiting for the telegram. 
It commenced to blow again this afternoon. Our consul 
came off at 5 P. M. with three ladies and several children in 
the 1st cutter and after looking about the ship were put on 
shore again, the spray dashing over the boat all the way and 
the men having hard work against the wind and tide in their 
heavily loaded boat. The dingey got adrift while being 
hooked on for hoisting and the 1st cutter was sent after it. 

Wednesday^ Sept. 5. Woixl came at sunset that we may 
come to the city as soon as we are ready. We did not give 
them time to get word to us to the contrary but as soon as 
everything was quiet ashore we up anchor and started at 10 
o'clock. Twelve miles above the point where we had been 
lying four-and-a-half days waiting for a telegram of the one 
little word, ^^yes," we passed the reputed spot where Lean- 
der's famous swimming feat came off, and where his little 
less famed imitator of the almost present generation boldly 
plunged into the sweeping current and breasted the stream 
to the other side, apparrently from no other motive than to 
show to the world that it was not such a very great feat after 
all that had been said about it. The same stream still flows 
steadily and sweeps everything upon its current swiftly and 



ABBITB AT COMSTANTIKOFLE. 1^7 

1*6100186166 ely onwsrd aad downwanl, teetifying to tbe great 
boldnees and power of endarattce of tbose two mortals. 

Thursday, Sept. 6, 1866. At seven o'clock this moroing 
we were io tbe Sea of Marmora, where no telegrams could 
reach as or forts enforce any farther delay in our reaching 
Constantinople. At 3 P. M. we anchored before the city, 
in plain sight of the Golden Horn, St. Sophia's dome and 
Moslem minarets, and directly abreast of the Sultan's Palace 
at Galata. In the view given of a part of Constantinople, 



CONBTAMTUfOPIiB. 

Galata occapies the whole for^rotmd, the Golden Horn is 
in tbe center, and a part of Seraglio Point in tbe background, 
extending quite a distance to the left beyond tbe view given. 
The Sultan's workshops are in the extreme southern part of 
Seraglio Point not represented. The mosque at tbe extreme 
right of the bac^groand is St. Sophia. Fera, the European 



188 MT ROYIKO ^IITE. 

or Christian quarter, is farther to the right of Galata than 
the view extends. Some of oar officers who came ap when 
we were first stopped at the Dardanelles say that this is tli^ 
dirtiest place they ever visited and that no amount of money 
would tempt them to remain in it. They were glad to get 
aboard again. 

Suiidaut Sept. P, 1866. We up anchor at 4 A. M. for 
Bu-yuk-de-rah, the residence of Foreign Ministers. It is 
up the Bosphorus and within sight of the entrance to the 
Black Sea. After coming to anchor we found that we would 
swing afoul of a Greek brig, and the Boatswain was sent on 
board with a party of men to hoist her anchor and move her 
to as good a berth out of our way. All hands were called 
to muster and Capt. Steadman read to us a letter he received 
last night informing htm officially of his promotion to the 
rank of Commodore from July 25. 

Monday^ Sept. 11. A day for visitors. Several Foreign 
Slinistersxame on board and witnessed our drill at the pivot 
gun aft and received their proper salutes on leaving. They 
came in boats called kyeets that are unlike anything we have 
seen. The curve at the stern is broader than at the bow, 
the flatly rounded bottom forward lies out of water for several 
feet of the boat's length. That of the American Minister 
is a nicely appointed affair with its gilded stars upon a blue 
ground, its red and white stripes, and golden eagle with wings 
outstretched perched upon the bow just in front of the staff, 
which bears the flag denoting the nationality and rank of the 
occupant. It has ten rowers using long sweeps. They rise 
to a stooping posture when bringing the sweep forward for 
a stroke, then place one foot against the thwart abaft them 
and straighten up for a pull, dropping upon their own seat 
with a bump as their stroke finishes. The Ministers' body- 
guards are a study for an artist, with their curved scimiters. 



I 



THE B0SPH0RU8. ASHORE AT BUYUKDERAH. 189 

cnriously mounted diDgle-barrel, flint-lock pistols and yata- 
ghan stock in a sash belt. Tbey held their heads high. 

Tuesday, Sept. 11, 1866. Jt is the birthday of the Rus- 
sian Emperor atid our ship is trimmed in honor of the day. 
The Prussian atid English Ambassadors visited us and we 
saluted them on their leaving the ship. 

Wednesday, Sep^. 12. Word was passed yesterday that 
all able to show a dollar might have liberty ashore till sunset. 
Not hearing the word passed I missed going. Supposing 
that bthers would be given liberty in like manner I asked Mr. 
Allyn that I be allowed to go the next time as I did not hear 
the word passed yesterday. He said, "The men behaved 
so badly yesterday that 1 had concluded not to give any more 
liberty here, but you can go." I asked him when, and was 
told ''Just when you please." *' For how long, sir?" "Just 
as long as you please," then turning to Mr. Wadleigh, who 
had the deck, he told him that when Stuart was ready to go 
he might call away the 2nd cutter and put him ashore. It 
creilted considerable suiprise among the boys when those in 
the gangway who beard the request and answer went forward 
and reported it. Of course they understood that Mr. Allyn 
did this partly to show them that soberness ashore and good 
conduct generally is appreciated by him, and that they had 
only themselves to blame for the stoppage of their liberty. 
They all said they were glad I could go. I went ashore at 1 1 
o'clock. Passing through the dirty, crooked lanes of the town 
I climbed the northerly slope of the ridge at the foot of which 
the town lies. The trail led part way up the slope from the 
ravine to the north, and it was completely arched over by the 
branches of scrubby oaks whose tops had been cut off at 8 
feet or less from the ground and the suckers allowed to grow 
and interlace over the trail, forming a deliciously cool arbor- 
like path. Across the head of a small branch of the densely 



190 



MT ROVING LIFE. 



BLAOK SKA. 



wooded ravine to the right I noticed oak and chestnut were 
the prevailing trees, the latter with bars green and prickly, 
the nuts just forming. On reaching the bare head of the 
ridge at about the letter k in the word Buyukderah upon the 
map given below I had an almost uninterrupted and compre- 
hensive view of the Bosphorus, the Black Sea, and the ridges 
adjoining. Between me and the Black Sea was a low spur 
of bare white rock, and I would 
have crossed to it and followed 
down it to the Black Sea shore 
in spite of the deep gully to be 
crossed to reach it, only that I had 
little time for so extensive a trip. 
I turned to the left along the top 
of the ridge till I came to the hut 
of a vineyard keeper. Entering 
the gateway to beg a drink of 
water t^o large dogs at 
once bouaded out to dis- 
pute my eutrauca, but the 
keeper soon ^^topped their 
music and taking a small 
bucket went to a well to ^^ 




Fterch 

European 
ensile t* 



Saltan's 
KloBk 



/ Asiatic 
/ •- Oastie 




I KadtKioy 

V rChalo<k«fnt 



[Chalceilos] 



Seven Towers 

aSA or MAKMOBA 



draw some cool water for 

me. By my measure of 

the well rope I found it 

was 75 feet to the water 

from the surface. 1 then 

inspected his vines. I 

saw that they had been trimmed annually to within six inches 

of the ground and showed a stump of that diameter and only 

that height, from which two or three small shoots not over 

two feet long grew and bore two or three enormous bunches 



Constantinople and The Bosp|ioras* 



SIX HOURS ASHORE AT BUTUKDERAH. 191 

of delicious grapes. He eat a banch each of raisfn, wine, 
and table grapes and would accept no pay for them, desiring 
instead my name upon bis register of visitors. The three 
bunches filled my cap bagged out to its greatest dimensions 
and 1 was glad I did not stop on the way for anything to eat. 
The vines were set only 2 1-2 feet apart each way and the 
soil was kept loose and free from weeds. Growing upon a 
vei7 steep hillside with no visible means for irrigating at all 
I wondered where the grapes could have gotten the moisture 
for the juice in them. The dogs soon became quite friendly 
after I had offered ^hem my hand to smell and they seemed 
inclined to show their friendship by rubbing against me, one 
on either side. I continued my walk along the ridge in sight 
of the little cove, the shipping almost at my feet but so far 
below me that they looked like skiffs rigged for some fancy 
parade. Upon the side hill 1 came upon two Turks plowing 
with a yoke of oxen and a primitive plow. The plow was a 

fork of a tree, the main stem 
cut down to four inches broad 
on one side and three limbs left, 
the two lower ones started out 
quartering to each other from 
A TVBKiSH PLOW. the Same height upon the tree 

and formed alternately the mould-board or land-side, their 
outer faces being flattened. Half-way between these limbs, 
a little higher up, a third limb had been left for a single han- 
die. Into this handle and near its lower end a long pole for 
a beam was morticed and pinned. An ax, an augur, and a 
chisel were all the tools used so far in its manufacture. In 
making the point a thin triangular piece of iron of eight inch 
sides is used, with a deep cut on two ^ sides, and holes 
punched in the position indicated in /T \ this figure. The 
parts with the holes in them are bent around the sole stick, 




192 MT ROVINO LIFE. 

apparently while the iron i« hot, and fastened by nails driven 
through the fonr holes. The yoke is fastened to the plow- 
beam. Beneath it is a thin slat the length of the yoke. It 
has four sticks fastened into it to serve in place of our bows. 
These sticks are passed through the yoke and fastened very 
much as we fasten our bows. To drive the oxen a line is 
fastened to the inner horn of each ox and held in the hand 
holding the plow. To guide the team the driver would pull 
upon the line of one ox and punch the other with a long stick 
that he held in his free hand. The other man walked ahead 
and poked the bramble or blackberry rolts out upon plowed 
ground for their roots to dry. The plowman walked some 
three furrows distant upon the plowed ground that the part 
then used as a land-side might have a vertical position. I 
suppose they called it plowing, though the furrows wei'e not 
three inches deep. By following a spur and then a steep 
ravine, ending by plunging down a deep gully caused by 
rains that bad cut through a series of old terraces, and had 
completely ruined them, I reached the broad valley of the 
creek south of the town. The only sign left of former culti- 
vation of these terraces was a lone fig tree still bearing a 
bountiful crop amidst the surrounding desolation. In an 
opening into the valley as I entered it I came upon a man 
lying asleep under a tree, with his small flock of sheep and 
herd of young cattle grouped about him. He did not waken 
though the animals rose quietly and allowed me to stroke 
them and put my arms over their necks. They gathered 
about me to lick my clothing as if they knew that I was an 
Old Salt by my uniform. I concluded they had not been 
salted very recently and that I better get out of their reach 
while I had a uniform fit to go aboard the ship in. I soon 
crossed a road, one side of which was roughly paved with 
round stones, apparently for winter use, as all travel wasoa 



LILIES OF THE FIELD. ^ RUSTIC COFFEE GARDEN. 198 

the nnpaved side. I fonnd the bed of the creek entirely dry. 
At one place a mole was attached to the lever of a whim for 
hoisting water from a deep hole dose to the bed of the creek. 
By gearing a great wheel was made to turn within this hole. 
The fellies of the wheel being hollow, each with a hole at one 
side, they filled as they entered the water at the bottom of 
the hole and as each felly reached a certain height during the 
rotation of the wheel its contents poured into a wide trough 
beside the wheel till at the highest point that felly was empty. 
This water was used in a field of com where men were gath- 
ering the crop fioiu r|fg-plants set in each hill of corn. In 
crossing a dry level field on my way to the town I found 
many delicate pink blossoms of a lily type that I thought 
were colchicum blossoms from their springing up from the 
ground with nothing but the flower and its stem to be seen. 
I wondered whether it might not be ^^ The lily of the fleld," 
that our Savior called attention to, and I tried to dig down 
to the root but failed to find more than the dead remains of 
an outer husk-like covering for the few inches I could dig 
in the hard baked soil. Nor could Dr. Hyde identify it for 
me farther than liliaceous on reaching the ship. Just out- 
side the town and at the mouth of the little dry stream that 
waters the valley — when it rains — is a rustic coffee and wine 
garden, laid out in walks and flower beds, with shrubbery 
and curious fenci&aof honey-combed rock hooked together by 
wires and hung upon chains between posts covered with the 
same material bedded in cement. A two-story octagonal 
summer-house with a spiral staircase in the center, and all 
covered with this material and rustic wood-work presented 
one of the neatest attractions imaginable. From the upper 
platform a fine view of the whole grounds was obtained ; its 
avenues and paths of washed gravel stones rolled hard and 
bordered by beds of many shapes, filled with many colors of 



194 HT ROVING LIPK. 

geraniums, petunias, marigolds, asters, and other brilliant 
flovrering and foliage plants in masses showed as parts of 
one great kaleidoscopic figure radiating in harmonious vari- 
ety from this central point. Its many rustic arbors, ponds 
with ducks, geese, and stately swans, with other attractive 
features made me willing to pay my piaster (4 cents) for a 
table-spoonful of a muddy beverage they called ^'Turkish 
coffee." It was here 1 saw my first swan, here I took my 
first look at really artistic rustic gardening, and here I had 
my first experience in ridding myself of swarms of teasing 
boy and girl beggars by at last offering them a stone in a 
way they could not help understanding. Soon after leaving 
this tastefully arranged place, which I judged was the resort 
of the Europeans for an afternoon stroll, I came to a group 
of sycamores whose gigantic trunks were crowded into an 
irregular mass with a hollow in the center, and forming a 
large area of shade beneath its branches. An enterprising 
Turk had built a small shanty upon the loose sand in the 
shade between these trees and the dry bed of the creek, and 
had placed seats of rough boards around under the shade. 
This seemed to be a place for meeting by Turkish men and 
women, but 1 noticed that they all squatted upon the sand 
instead of sitting upon the benches. A gi'oup of women 
were seated together, some of them with their veils raised. 
I made it convenient to pass them so as to see their faces. 
Before they got sight of me I saw enough to convince me 
the veil was worn more to hide uninteresting vacuity than to 
prevent outsiders seeiog the loveliness of the Moslem harem. 
On reaching the town I saw the ship salute the Persian Am- 
bassador to the Sultan as he left her side. The natives took 
quite an interest in the American ship. I saw nothing in 
town that I cared to buy and returned aboard at 5 P. M. 
Thursday^ Sept. 13y 1866. We up anchor at 8 A. M. 



AMEBICAN MISSIOHARIES CHEER VS. 195 

for Constantinople. We got a good view of the beautiful 
shores of the Bosphoms on the way down. On passing the 
residence of an American missionary upon the Asiatic shoi;e 
we were saluted from the upper windows by ladies waving 
little American flags, and by the boys upon the piazza with 
the trne Yankee ^^ Hip ! Hip ! HuiTah ! " We mounted the 
rigging quickly at the order, ^^AU hands cheer ship ! " and 
greeted them with three rousing cheers, while the officers 
returned the salute of the ladies with their handkerchiefs and 
three dips of the ensign. How their hearts must have leapt 
with joy at sight of their national flag borne by their Nation's 
ship, ever watchful to protect them in their extremely dan- 
gerous position. Only such as they can realize what that 
flag means to those tarrying amidst these Moslem fanatics.* 
Four lonesome years they had lived, knowing that flag alone, 
and the power to avenge that might possibly be represented 
by it, had secured their residence from the torch of the incen- 
diary and themselves from immolation or the fury of fanatics. 
We had been deemed brave because under that flag with arms 
in our hands and comrades beside us we had risked our lives 
for our country. What must be due to these ladies who all 
this time had trusted their lives under the folds of that flag^ 
(so far as earthly trust went,) unarmed and alone, laboring 
to improve the condition of those who hated them with an 
inveterate hatred ! We gave them the meed of greater honor 
than ours. Men's eyes were moist when we reached the deck. 

o The preseDoe of forty-one of the men-o*.war of Uie European Powers and of the 
United States at Constantinople to protect the dtixens and missionaries of their re- 
spectlTe conntiles fh>m the wholesale maasaeres of natiye Christians at the time of 
putting this psge into type, December, 1805, shows what might have been the fote 
of foreign missionaries in the reign of Abdnl Aziz bat for the restraining presence of 
Christian fleets. My own DiTlsion-ollloer. Master O. H. Wadleigh of that time is now 
Cspt. Wadleigh, In command of the Misvkafous. We may rest assured that hia 
ship wHl protect or avenge as ter Inland aa his gans can send a shell or men can go, 
for he was a sterling man, of a most kindly disposition, and an excellent oflSoer. 



196 HT BOVING UrE. 

Oar sentiment was qnie^ly changed to merriment. A short 
distance inland from oar missionary was the residence of the 
Greek Consal. He probably supposed that the cheers and 
flag dipping were intended for him, for he harriedly dipped 
his flag. He received the castomary dips in retam. These 
dips a Tarkish steamer going up stream appropriated to her 
own account and deadened her way nntil she coald hoist her 
flag in order to be able to dip it. The Turk got the retom 
of the compliment. We begin to think we are creating some 
stir among them. None, however, show us the friendliness 
and consideration that the Russians observe toward us. A 
boat's crew going alongside one of their ships is invited on 
board and all they have in the way of sailor courtesy they 
offer heartily. They remember and always speak of our own 
attentions to the crews of their ships when wintering in oar 
ports during the rebellion. The bad behavior of the men at 
Buyukderah resulted from the ^'treating" by the Russian 
sailors on their £mperor*s birthday with money furnished by 
their officers for that purpose. We should never fail to get 
help in onr need when Russian sailors or their officers were 
within call. At 9 : 30 we anchored at Constantinople and 
received the greetings of the Turkish men-o'-war. In the 
afternoon Mehemet Ali, Captain Pasha, visited us and we 
exchanged salutes. 

Friday^ Sept. 14^ 1866. We received a visit from the 
Grand Vizier. We manned yards for him and gave him a 
aalute of 19 guns. 1 bought a pair of white satin Turkish 
slippers on board for my better half, paying 91 for them, 
I also got several photographs of parts of the city and of the 
Sultan, his little son and his daughter, Mehemet Ali, and the 
Grand Vizier. (J had secured photographs of the sovereign 
of each country we had visited. The portraits obtained here 
were good, bat the views faded so badly that cuts from them 



AT LARNACA, CYPBUfi. OCR BIG GUNS BARK. 197 

could not be made, except from the partial view of the city 
^iven OD page 187.) 

Tuesday, Sept. 18, 1866. We got under weigh at 6 : 30 
A. M. for itSB Ifllaud of Cyprus, cnlliug at 8yra to leave our 
pilot. 

Friday, Sept. 21. We pat^sed the Island of Rhodes.-^ 
In the forenoon we attempted to exercise at quarters, but a 
few Tolls of the ship of her own sweet will sent our pivot 
guns flying at a greater s|)eed than we would have cared to 
show visitors. They did not wait for orders or stop to letj 
the pivot bolt drop into the socket. We were glad to hear 
the order to secure our guns. 

Monday, Sept. 24. We an-ived at Larnaca at 8 A. M., 
finding the consular flags of several nations, but no war- 
vessels. 

Tuesday, Sept. 25. There is a istciry floating about decks 
that the Turks have arrested the body servant of our Consul, 
Oen. Di Cesnola, and were keeping him in prison in spite 
of the Consul's protest. He had referred the matter to our 
Minister at Constantinople, £. Jay Morris, who sent us to 
settle it according to our idea of what should be right. On 
our appearance the Turks changed their mind about the man, 
but the consul, with^ our consul from Beiroot, who bad come 
toassist, demanded not only the man, but an apology, and an 
indemnity of $20,000. This forenoon the Commodore came 
off from ashore and as soon as his head appeared over the 
gangway gave an order to ^^ Beat to quarters for target drill, 
and set a target one mile out to sea ! " After our second 
heavy gun had been flred at the target the Commodore's 
Clerk exclaimed **8ee them run ! Oh, see them run ! " The 
people were leaving the town at a double-quick, thinking we 
were about to knock their houses to pieces over their heads 
for the insult to our flag. The deep and prolonged b-o-o-m 



198 mr bovikg life. 

of our heavy gans, so different from anything they had ever 
heard, was a revelation to them that demands thas endorsed 
better be obeyed without further parley. These Turks seem 
to have forgotten us as a nation worthy of consideration, 
having seen none of our war-ships since the opening of the 
rebellion ; but our little corvette is opening their eyes through 
their ears. When it came to our turn to fire on the second 
round Mr. Wadleigh look the gun-lanyard from Jordan and 
took a piece out of the staff of the target. A boat came off 
so^n after and oar quartermaster ou duty at the time tells us 
that after some conversation he heard the Commodore say 
to the Turkish officer, " No, sir ! We must have the man, 
the apology, and $20,000 indemnity." The boat appeared 
again within an hoar ani oTered the man and an apology. 
The answer was the sam3 witn the addition of ^^ I go to sea 
at sundown, and this tiling mast be settled before I sail!" 
When the boat appeared again it was accompanied by one 
bearing the twj c )asuls, showing that they had acceeded to 
oar deminds. It appiari that the b-o-o-m of our big guns 
was all they desired to bear of our argument.* 

Wednesilay^ Sept, 2^. We got under weigh at ten o'clock 
last night, the Beiroot consul still on board, and steamed 
rapidly along the coast tot^ard the east. We anchored at 
Latakia soon after noo;i. Latakia is built upon and partly 
with the ruins of the ancient Laodic2a, which, with Collosse 

oSaBiBXKR'B MoNTaLT t^ May, 1878 says :~'; Larnaka or Laralca, old Oilium {s 
tha desolate place (though the chief port and consalar residence) where General Di 
Cdsnola gained a victory over the Turkish Authorities which m ide him thenceforwarvl 
pra^liealiy the King of Cyprus. This wJts his app )intm)nt and protection as kawas 
of a young man of g »o 1 family, whom the ktlm^kam wished to draft Into the army 
to overcome hln rivjUship in (he affections of a Cypriote young lady. The kalmakam 
S3ls3d the kawas by force and a diplomatic stru^gl-J ensua 1 which flaally wis carried 
to Constantinople and resulted in the restoration of the kawji<4 and the dismissal of 
th3 governor of th) Island us wall as the kaimikam. besides anple apilogv anl ftiU 
inlemnity In money, th >ugh not before two meu-o'-war had appeared oT^e port" — 
Had the little FaoLio preceded us an I failed to make an impression ? 



LATAXU. BETRIjT. JOPPA. GO TO JERUSALEM. 199 

near by, (where was one of the charches that Paul wrote to) 
was destroyed by as earthquake in 65 or 66. The ruins are 
visible, mixed with the houses of the present inhabitants. 
Those of Collosse do not appear to have been disturbed at all 
though eighteen centuries have elapsed since its overthrow. 

Thursdayy S(pt. 27, 1S66. We up anchor at eight o'clock 
last night with the Beiroot Consul still on board and arrived 
at Beiroot (or Beyrut as it is also spelt) at ten o'clock thiir 
looming. We found here the British corvette, Coseack, and 
a Turkish man-o'-war. Directly back of the town some 20 
miles distant apparently, they look so distinct, we see the 
Mountains of Lebanon, their tops bidden at times by clouds 
and seemingly destitute of vegetation. The decayed aspect 
of the town is relieved in a measure by trees and gardens. 
At various points are seen the ruins of ancient buildings or 
fortifications. It is a dreary looking place. 

Friday, Sept. 28. We sailed to-day for Joppa. We ran 
along the land all day and passed Sidon and Tyre ; also close 
to Mount Carmel, ^^dipping its feet in the western sea," the 
Mountains of Samaiia in the distance visible from our deck. 

Saturday, Sept. 29. We reached Joppa early this fore- 
noon. A stormy night gave our watch one hour for sleep. 
Before breakfast we holystoned the spar deck. During the 
forenoon we mess cooks were scraping the old coat of white- 
wash from overhead on the berth deck. After dinner Mr. 
AUyn sent for me to know if I would like to go to Jerusa- 
lem. Of course I would, and was told to take my place in 
line with eleven others in the starboard gangway. Commo- 
dore Steadman then came to us and said that ^^your conduct 
while on board this ship has been so unexceptionable that I 
allow you to go to Jerusalem at your own expense." Mr. 
AUyn then told us to get ready and report in the gangway, 
when a month's pay would be served to us, and that animals 



SOO HT ROVING LIPE. 

and a guide woald be ready for us when we got ashore. The 

boys jokiugly called us tbe twelve apostles, aad they wanted 

to know which of us was Judas. When I reminded tbcm 

that Judas w»s not one of the Apostles, Webster retorted 

that I must be Paul, for I wrote most of the letters. We 

found the animals waiting, but the; did not all have riding 

Baddies. It fell to my lot to straddle what we call an apar- 

ejo, (pronounced ap-ar-a'-ho,) the top of which is of the size 

and shape of a ht^shead. I 

had neither bridle nor halter to 

guide the beast, and was thus 

completely at her mercy. The 

accompanying home-made cut 

shon-s the manner of my ride. 

The luule wonld not allow me 

to sit in any other way till we 

liegan to climb the hills, when 

I found she liked to b&ve me 

hang my feet in front of the 

saddle and each side of her in 

going up hiil, but that I must 

"fleet aft" oa going down bill 

•■■r w^ay tm fsnMBieM. q^ her head would godown and 

heels go up, causing me to make faster ti.ne on the way to 

Jeruealem thau my mule did. I walked ovjr half the way 

to relieve the strain upon my muscles and aching joints. 

Several of our officers had started a short time before us. 

For the first three or four hours of our route we crossed a 

plain that reminded me of the Sacramento Valley at the same 

lime of the year. The soil had the same baked and cracked 

appearance. The bed of a small stream we cfossed was dry, 

but a stone arched bridge gave token that at times it became 

unsafe to ford. Hardly a traveler was seen on the i-oad. 



■ ■■ ■ —-- - •^' 

THE NSW YOR-J ! 

PUBLIC LIBRARY 



ASTOn, LENOX 
TILDEN pTOUNDATlONv*; 



ON THE ROID TO JERUSALEM. 201 

At one place we 8aw a huge pile of grain with men throwing 
it into the air for the wind to blow away the chaff just as 
they did 2000 years ago. It was dark when we stopped at 
Bamleh for supper and to wait for the nocon to rise. Scon 
after starting we commenced to enter the hills. Again W£s 
I reminded of California by the large olive trees Eoattered 
singly and of a rounded form, looking by moonlight like the 
Jive oaks of the foot hills of the Siena Kevada. A second 
stop was made at a Bedouin camp in a deep hollow just after 
our animals had slid down an incline with all four feet close 
together. I got a cup of coffee here that was very refresh- 
ing, and my limbs and joints were gnttly lelieved by the 
rest. By altern»tely riding and walking I got along more 
easily. Surely no road in California cculd I e much rougher 
than this one over the three mountain rif'ges let ween Ram- 
leh and Jerusalem. In places flt^t layers of what I took to 
be limestone formed steps or terraceir of naked rock too high 
for the animals to mount, and thc'v would go a hundred or 
more feet to the right or left, whfie they, knew was the easy 
place for going up or down. Had this zigzag course l)een 
by continuous gains upon the desired course th( y would have 
been welcome, but to have a mole with a Mexican pnek-sad- 
dle carry one down hill awhile and then without warning to 
suddenly turn and almost jerk the saddle out from under a 
man by leaping or scrambling to the next rise is far from a 
pleasant experience, especii^lly when a man is veij sleepy, 
after tliirty hours of continued action. Daylight of Sunday 
found us still climbing the desolate hills of Palestine, white 
with a honeycombed rock which covered the greater part of 
the surface in high steps or natural terraces. We passed a 
few cultivated teiTaces, the soil hidden (or held down) by 
stone chips, and grapevine stumps about six feet long lay 
prone upon them with bearing shoots springing in a green 



202 MT ROVIKO LIFE. 

mat from them ia all directions. Every country seems to 
have its own way of growing the grape. Each may be the 
best for its own locality. As we were climbing the last of 
the hills we began to see life stirring. A train of donkeys 
laden with melons for Jerusalem struck into the road ahead 
of us. At la«»t, though too late to see the sun rise behind 
the holy city we got a view of Jerusalem. The morning sun 
was well up over the Mount of Olives beyond the city when 
winding around the head of a ridge the city burst suddenly 
into full view. Our fatigue was forgotten. We quenched 
our thirst at the Upper Pool of Gihon as we passed and en- 
tered the city by the Jaffa (Joppa) gate, in the western wall. 
We were led through narrow, crooked streets, sometimes 
under arches, diagonally across the city to the Frank quarter 
near the Damascus or uortliern gate, where the Meditterra- 
nean Hotel was kept by one Hornsteiii. We were all very 
lame after our unusual exercise, and hungry also. After a 
long time of waiting for breakfast we were served with a 
few fried egga and a cup of cc^ffee. Finding the boys were 
rather slow to start to see the city, most of them preferring 
to sleep, I thought I would retrace our course to a photog- 
rapher's place we passed before entering the city. Missing 
my way to the Jaffa gate I tried to go out by two others in 
succession that I supposed were city gates. At the last I 
got hustled out for my persistence in trying to get out of the 
city by t\o way of the Temple grounds. 1 had a glimpse of 
chdm that paid for the rough usage. Failing to get out of 
the city I made my way back to the hotel. Here I learned 
that the boys had just started with a guide for the Mount of 
Olives, and being shown the way they took I gave chase. A 
few rods of start in this dirty city of crooked lanes and laby- 
rinthine courts is sufficient to give a stranger the slip. I 
saw nothing of them and strayed into a ruinous part of the 



RVIKS AKD WILD DOGS. I MOUKT THE WALL. 20$ 

city in the Dortbeast corner that appeared to have never been 
re-bnilt. A pack of wolf-like dogs snarled at me for my 
distarbance of their feast. 1 thought of the fate of Jezebel 
when thej surrounded me, and I was glad to find a broken 
place in the wall where I could climb up out of their reach. 
Here was a gate closed up with masonry, and a great space 
within the wall at the corner was entirely covered with large 
broken blocks of stone in heaps as if the ruins of overthrown 
buildings. Once upon the wall I did not regret missing my 
way. My only regret was that I did not have a revolver and 
a full box of ammunition for a little target practice. As 1 
stood upon the battlement near the corner of the wall the 
Valley of Jehoshapbat opened out wide below me. Over 
against me to the north was a curiously shaped hill, its top 
but little higher than the road west of it leading to the north. i 

Its southern face was very steep, with several cave-like holes i 

that reminded one of a boy's pumpkin lantern without any I 

light. ]t appeared to be a slight spur-ridge ending in a 
bluff.* To the east the Valley of Jehoshaphat narrows and ^ 

deepens rapidly to the south, and beyond are the three round ! 

tops of the Mount of Olives, while far to the north and west ' 

the hills and mountains extend to dim blue outlines, all of 
them doubtless famed in Jewish history. J judged that the 
battlements on the wall where 1 stood were two feet thick, 
braced every ten or twelve feet by n:asonry extending about 
six feet toward the inner face of the wall, cutting the top of 
it into sections. Inside the braces was a passage of two to 
three feet giving a clear walk from gate to gate. The whole 
thickness of wall was about twelve feet. I followed this 
passage nearly to the Damascus gate and descended by a 
broken place in the inner face of the wall as 1 wished to go 

by that gate to find the photographer. In the center of the 

■ ■ ■» 

• since foQiid to be Mount Calvary. Its tummit is visible flrom the whole north wall. 



206 MY ROVING LIPK. 

resort of our Lord through all his ministry. After going a 
few steps beyond the crown of the mount my guide bid me 
look. Who could gaze unmoved. Beyond a stretch of hills 
the eye rested upon what appeared an immense cauldron of 
molten lead that though only about fifteen or twenty miles 
distant was over 8900 feet beneath us. There lay the glis- 
tening grave of unrepentant cities, buried more than 1300 
feet beneath the ocean's level. There too lay Jordan's silver 
ribbon in a waving courae through its valley to the bitter 
Sea of Salt, whose precipitous shores looked as if the crust 
of the earth had suddenly dropped out. There were the 
Mountains of Moab beyond the sea, grimly desolate. . The 
little village of Bethany was just around the point of the hill 
below us ; Jericho on the other side of that hill to the east, 
with the Fords of the Jordan not far from it ; far to the 
southeast Mt. Hor, the lonely burial place of Aaron, raised 
its dim blue head far above all intervening or suiTOunding 
peaks ; and to the south of us, just hidden on the other side 
of the hilloniy eight miles distant, was our sacred Bethlehem. 
I gazed silently at the diSerent objects as he pointed them 
out, but had to turn away to hide the emotions that welled 
up at sight of all these places spoken of in the Book of Books. 
Here we stood among tombstones of Hebrews of a former 
age upon the bare summit of Olivet and conversed upon the 
incidents called to mind by places pointed out to me. A 
community of feeling and thought, despite the diffei'ence in 
our positions, made us feel like old friends. On our return 
descent I was made happy by the receipt of sprigs of olive 
from Olivet for my wife and children, cut by Prussia's Rep- 
resentative, Fane' Geran, as souvenirs of our visit together. 
On the way down we had a fine view of the city from a point 
a little higher than the city wall, that might well might have 
been in the mind of our Savior (though then three days' walk 



J£BUSAL£M. 



207 



difilBfit) when be uttered tboee Borrowiog voi'de recorded in 
Luke, 13 : 34 : — '*0, Jeruealeni, Jerufifilem, which killefit the 
propbetB find fitonefitthem that are sent unto thee ; bow often 
would I have gathered thy children together as a ben doth 
gather her brood under her wings, and ye uotdd not.'* From 
this point Jeiusalem is still beautiful even in its imitation of 
Its former self. What must have been the pride of the Jew 
as he stood upon this western slope of Olivet and looked 
across the deep chasm of Jehosbapbat to the Temple and 
many palaces overtoppirg the walls of the city, which were 
of themselves a wonder. Some idea can be formed of these 
walls from an outline of them ascertained by sheer digging : 



9480 Top of ApH ept Templ e W»n iind of tlie City WMl. 

ditt' "toK misBJIT WALL 



^336 Xi^' G»le' 



N. BT, Conier. 
enrrwALL I 





flgpret «bow height Above Sea Leve!. 
Old foPPdAdoD |o top of Anefept Wall, 172 ft. 
Top of Pre«eiit Wall at S. E. Corper, 24S9 It 
Height of Mt. of Olives, above theSea* 8S88 ft. 
Apeient lipes are dottedr 



]EteT»tlim Af Aiicieiit and Mcdem E«slcm Wall Above Sea Lord, 

Within the half-mile opposite the Eastern wall of the city 
the Kidron has a fall of over 150 feet, and in the next half- 
mile to its junction with the Gibon near En Roge^or Joab^ 
well, it has an additional fall of nearly 350 feet. This long 
face of wall was from 25 to 80 feet high at the northeast 
angle. The present wail slopes 21 feet to the northeast an- 
gle of the Temple wall, from which point its top is level to 
the southeast angle, where it has a height of 2429 feet, above 
sea level, and a height from the present surface of 73 feet. 
The old Temple wall was 21 feet higher, and its foundations 



k 



208 MT ftOVIKO LWK. 

m 

at the soatheast angle are buried by the debris of its over' 
throvr for 78 feet, giving its former height as 172 feet. The 
Golden Gate is walled np, (Ez. 44 : 1, 2.) It is 2389 feet 
above the sea, nearly on the level of the ancient Outer Court, 
which was 2409 feet, while the Court of Gentiles was 2419 
feet and the Court Israel was 2429 feet above the sea. The 
highest figures given to parts of the Temple Area by Engi- 
neers surveying the gronu.l was 2437 feet above sea^level. 
As that was at the base of the Temple itself, and the East-^ 
era wall was but 13 feet higher, the' whole grand fiont of the 
Temple was plainly visible from the Mount of Olives, which 
was 133 feet higher, with an air-line distance of a-half-mile. 
The most conspicuous object now to be seen is the octagonal 
Mosque of Omar, built upon the site of Solomon's Temple. 
We passed the miserable village of Siloam perched upon the 
verge of the precipice overhanging Topbet, as that part of 
Jehosbapbat is called, and crossing the Kidron Tied climbed 
to a tunnel part way up the steep bilUide south of the Tem- 
ple wall. Entering the tunnel we descended some thirty 
steps cut in the rock to a pool of water. Coming from the 
fierce glare of the sun I was glad to take tba oSfered hands 
of some Arab boys to lead me down to the brink. I found 
an oblong tank cut in the rock about 6x15 feet in size partly 
filled with slightly brackish water. We watched for its re- 
turning flow which occurred in a few minutes, showing that it 
comes from its source through a syphon. The Catholics call 
it the *^Pool of The Virgin," which of course could not have 
been its name at the time of Christ. My Protestant guide 
thought it to be the fountain of the Pool Bethesda, which he 
supposed was the one now called the Pool of Siloam, though 
there was great uncertainty as to the true location of the Pool 
Bethesda. It is 850 feet south of the southern Temple Area 
wall. The water flowed away by a subterranean channel 



JKRTSALEV. 209 

cut in tbe rock 1100 feet lorg throngh the hill or spur called 
Ophel, goulb of the Temple, and emergea aa the FouDtain 
of Siloam at the southweatern f«ce of the spur near its point. 
Fiom tbia EiBall tank cut in the rock it flows into a larger 
reservoir, 5S feet long, 18 feet wide at the top, and 19 feet 
deep. The lower end is a vertical wall, but the other sides 
are reduced in width by steps or terraces having drops of 
about four feet, with quite narrow walks at the foot of the 
drops around the threa sides cut in the rock. This reservoir 
is variously called the Poo) of Siloam, King's Pool, and Old 
Pool. My guide thought it might be the Pool Bethesda, as, 
coming from an intermittent source it would also intermit. 
(He probably reasoned that beirg the lower and larger of the 
series it would be the only one in which bathing would be 
allowed, the upper ones being reseived for drinking. For 
the same sanitary reason the reservoir northeast of the Tem- 
ple close to the East, or St. Stephen's Gate, called Birket 
Israel by the Arabs, and Pool of Bethesda by Catholics, can 
hardly be the true Pool of Bethesda. The Pool of the Vir- 
gin and the Fountain of Siloam are each too small for any 
number of persons to find room for waiting about them.) A 
hole near the bottom of the vertical wall lets the water out, 
and probably once had a gate to control the outflow to use 
it for irrigation. The pool was nearly empty and as my 
guide pointed to the gi*een and slimy surface he said, '^But 
the angel has ceased to trouble its waters*" Not far from 
here, at the junction of the Kidron and Gibon or Hinnom, 
(Gehenna^ as he called it,) we passed a well 125 feet deep, 
called by the Arabs, Joab's Well. It is otherwise called 
En Rogel, and Nehemiah's Well. It is walled up with hewn 
stone in a square shaft, one side extending up above ground 
and overhanging the well. Standing about and waiting their 
turn to draw water was a motley crowd watering their camels 



210 Mr BOVING LIFE. 

and waehiDg ctothee. From this point the city appeared to 
be bailt upon tlie edge of a cliff, with a deep gully in its face 
near its eastern side, and from the western part a great land- 
slide had nearly filled the gully, with a sloping mass of loose 
rubbish. The Tyropean Valley was originally a very deep 
gidcb pas^tns; close to the southwest corner of the wall of 
the Temple and I was told that it was filled with 100 feet of 
rabbiah, and there were sign^ of there having been a bridge 
with spans 150 feet in height crossing this gulch from the 
Temple to Mount Zion. Oa climbing np the steep slope of 



MOUNT ZlOn. Wrma the SontKr < tt. 

Mount Zion we fonnd the foothold very precarious. We 
slid back at nearly every step in the loose rubbish of the city 
wreckage that still slipped freely down the slope more than 
three centuries after it bad been damped here out of the way 
Of the re-bnildera. A shaft sank forty feet had not reached 
bottom and was found too dangerous work to be continued. 
On Mt. Zion is a large square buitding called David's Palace 



that nuty be opOD the site of tbe Palace of David. To the 
west of it are the European aod Americaa eemeteries. The 
present cit; vail does Dot take iiOnount Zion. On enteiing 
the oil; b; tbe South or Zion gate I was. shown the lepei-'e 
quarter, a cluster of iow stone and coDcrele huts not ^ 
ojrer ten feet square, with a email dome in tbe center of J^^P 
the roof for standing room, and a door so low that 
the; ndnat stoop to enter the hut. There was no sign of a 
window or opening other than the door. The lepers were 
seated upon the ground against their bouses and about the 
gate plying their trade of begging. Here we parted after 



ezchangimg addresses and good wishes, he advising tne to 
follow the wall on tbe outside on my way to the phob^ra- 
pber'e, as I woqM then have made a complete <irt-uit of the 
city wall. The viaw of tbe Western Wall of Jerusalem was 
taken from tbe southwest, beyond the lower part of Gifaon, 
where it merges into Hinnom. It looks as if at different 



212 MT RaviMO Lirs. 

times it ha.i been used as a quarry for stones for bailding 
the walls of the city. I judged that the widest excavation, 
if an excavation, was about fifty yards in width and some 
twenty yards deep. The Jaffa Gate is at the inner angle 
at about the middle of this wall, and the road to Joppa runs 
close to the farther half of the wall shown for nearly all its 
length. I was greatly disappointed at the photographer's 
to find that though the man had a large view of the city in 
four sections, each ten inches wide, taken from the Mount of 
Olives, I could not have it because to-day was the Sabbath. 
I was forced to return to the hotel to a very late dinner of 
boiled rice and boiled mutton. The boys had engaged an 
Arab guide to show them the sacred sites and wonders of the 
city. While with him we were shown in David's Palace the 
^^Room in which Christ ate His Last Supper !*' It was also 
''King David's Throne Room !" '" King David's Tomb is 
beneath us!" (Down cellar.) Some of the boys wanted 
to see it, but a guard with drawn scimetar stood on the first 
step and they found that only the Faithful were allowed to- 
go. At the Church of St. James he showed Us the *^ Stone 
upon which John the Baptist was beheaded I" I said that I 
saw the same stone at St. Mark's Church at Venice and I 
thought it exceedingly miraculous that it should be in both 
places at once. He was somewhat surprised at it^ but said 
this was surely the true stone. '^No, they hadjiot found the 
ax, yet," he responded to my query. One of my Catholic 
shipmates came to his rescue by saying, ^'This must be the 
true stone anyhow — Don't you see the blood streaks^" Of 
Qourse I admitted tHat both were true stones, and peace was 
restored. This stone was in a glass case just higU enough 
for the lips of devotees to meet it easily, and as the glass in 
front had been conveniently broken the mirks of the ax had 
become effaced by kisses of worshipers. At any rate there 



JKSUSALEM. 213 

was a smooth spot hollowed into that part of tbe I'ot'k. He 
todi DS arouDd to a oarrow coart alike inteirstiog to tbe Jew 
or Gentile, tboagb tbe interest of tbe Jew is one of endnees. 
Jt is called " Tbe Jew's Wailing Place." Tbey gaibrr li^re 



THE JEW'S WAILIMC-IXACE. 

rfo tbeir sacred daya bj some boge atones twentj-Ecven feet 
long by nine feet liigb, at tbe base of tbe westf m wr.U of t^e 
Temple Area, tbe nearest tbey are t ver allowed to ai^proach 
tbeir Holy of Holiea. Tbey bave k<xx1 reanm lo believe 
tbese stones form a pan of the sabstraclare of tbeir ancient 
western wall, and tbey meet to weep and wail by tbem, taking 



214 MT KOTniG uira. 

np Yfie lamentation of Jeremiah, (Lamentations, 5 : 2, 20.) 
praying for the ooming of the Messiah, witnesses of Grod's 
Word being falfilled in them. It was a sad sight. Theft 
inheritance was held by the children of the bond-woman and 
they were thrast oat from the hoase of their fathers. The 
entrance to the court was abreast of the wall between the 
Court of Grentiles and the Goart of Israel at the sonthwest 
comer of that court, and the outer wall of the Court of Gen- 
tiles would cut it in two, he told me. The cut shows quite 
distinctly the line of demolition and renewal of the wall. He 
took the Catholics of our crowd into the Church of the Holy 
Sepulcher. I did not care to see the ^^Rock riven by the 
Earthquake !," ^^The Pillar to which Christ was bound when 
scourged !" ^^ The stone upon which he sat when crowned 
with thorna!" **The Tomb!" (in the cellar^ or ''Mount 
Calvary !" (in one of the attics.) They saw all these withiq 
the walls of that church and heard them announced in tones 
that challenged dispute, therefore they were there. I spent 
a couple of dollars in crosses of pearl and of olive which of 
course were claimed to be bits from the true cross, (what a 
big one it mu^t have been unless it has been growing ever 
since.) These with the hits of flinty limestone from Mount 
Zion and chalky limestone from the Mount of Olives, also 
twigs of olive from Grethsemane and Olivet made about the 
sum of the souvenirs. of my visit to Jerusalem. The son of 
our landlord told me that he had ndden to Joppa in three 
hours, which I set down as the most miraculous miracle yet 
recorded in this miraculous place. I was tired of tlie great 
number of miraculous nothings shown us. I could believe 
that cleansing this city of the horrible filth that fills it would 
be a miracle worthy of record, but such a thing does not 
seem to be given a thought. At 7 P. M. I had slipped a 
franc into the hand of the guide for the use of his horse 



BXWBX TO THE 6HIF. 215 

^n tbe return trip and with MaBter-at^rmB Collins was sent 
rtead to tbe Jaffa gate with the complaint of some poor fel- 
low ringing in my ears that he had a horse when he came up. 
We fonnd the main gate closed for the night and had to wait 
for the guide to {Miss ns through the side gate. We did not 
wait to see how the males with pack saddles got through the 
needle bot pushed ^. I got several good nape in the saddle 
during tbe night, a trick of m; crossing the Plains. It was 
biroad dayl^bt when our horses stopped at Bamleh for their 
breakfast as well as ours. A short distance out of Joppa 
we met a Dr« Smith, one of a company of emigrants from 
tbe United States lately anived to settle in Palestine. He 
was having trouble with a csmel driver who could not or 
would not understand him. The camel was loaded with a 
part d some machine to go out to the company's reser\*ation. 
We stopped with our countryman until our guide came up.* 
Be straightened things out very quickly. 1 sought the pho- 
tographer at the camp of the emigrants on tbe beach and 
persuaded him to return to town with me for his set of views 
of places in Palestine. This made me too late to go off in 
the boat with the others. Quartermaster Bassett remained 
to look me up and we went aboard in a shore boat. On my 
reaching the ship's deck I began to feel so faint frdin my 
continued action for fifty-seven hours that I could hardly 
answer Mr. Allyn's question of how I liked Jerusalem. He 
was satisfied that I was sober and let me go forwanL I lay 
on the berth deck all that afternoon and slept. Our party 
had returned clean and sober and another party of twenty- 
seven were started, with time extended to Thursday. 

Tuesday^ Oct. 2, 1866. The wiijd ro€e at sundown and 
the mountains are hidden by clouds. The ship rolls heavily. 



n 



o After niMiy troublMome ezprrleneet from ihe ill will of Uie nativeB and lack of 
knowledge of dlvatic eonditloBS required for BncoeMftal fturming here, tbie company 
broke up and most of them were test home bgr our Gonral. 



216 ur RoviKo ura. 

Thursday, Oct. 4, 1866. Tbe liberty men ftU teturaed 
early, aud the ofHcers were not far bebind. TItey were all 
enUiusUstic over tbeir trip id spite of tbe rain and mad of 
tlie latter part of the time. Oar c^cera had telegraphed ti> 
CoDStantinople for a firman permitting our party to visit ttie 
Masque of Omar. They got the benefit of the permit. 1 
give a photographic print of it on the page opposite. Tbey 
also visited Bethlehem And aaw the spot where The Babe 
was born, marked by a silver star let into a block of wbite 
marble within a small chapel built overthe spot. B'rom the 



descriptions they ^ive of what ihey saw I jadge they were 
regaled with tbe same kind of miractiloue nothings that we 
saw anil beai-d while with the Arab guide at Jerusalem. The 
cut shows the remains of old teiTaces that were donbtless 
cultivated at the time of Christ. At tiie left is a conrent, 
but whether Greek or Latin tbey did not know. Catholics 
and Protestants among us agreed that these monks would 
have rendered far more acceptable service to God and their 
fellow. men had they made these terraces blos&Om with roses 












«> . ^ »- »,. rtmf i~ im g ii «i _ 



Vt. * ^r 1 



Mosque of Oinar« 



* : .. .^ t vih 



i \ 

It-..?/ i- -^■- r NT r-s ^ '-T O ^^ c I 

L^ ,' ■- . ... ..•,-.,■... L • I f 



V.W. M»^" •'W'H 



ALEXANDBIA. TBIPOLI. MALTA. 217 

and bear, f roits that would have relieved the locality of its 
desolate l)iun«i}De6s instead of leading their present lazy life. 
At 11 A. M* we got np steam and left for Alexandria. 

Saturday J Od* 6, 1866. We came to anchor at Alexan- 
dria* I find that my trip has exhaosted me so greatly that 
I am hardly able to keep about my work. 

Thufidaif, Od. 11. Last night Quartermaster Basse tt 
came to my hammock to tell me I was to be promoted to 
Surgeon's Steward unless the present incumbent came off 
from overstayed liberty this forenoon. 1 got the Stewards 
and boat's crews to hunt him up and tell him he woukl be 
. disrated unless he came off at once. They found him and 
brought hi%off in the market boat before breakfast. The 
{NTomotion would have kept me in the ship long after my term 
of service had expired, and disrating for cause would have 
been a permanent injury to bim. 

Saturdaffi Od. 13. We failed for Tripoli in the evening. 

Friday, Od. 19. We anchored outside of Tripoli late in 
the afternoon of yesterday, and to-day we came inside and 
hoisted the yellow flag for four days of quarantine. 

ThurMday, Od. 25* We went to sea at 10 A. M. bound 
for Malta. 

Friday^ Od. 26. We arrived at Malta at noon and were 
ordered to make fast to moorings off the Navy Hospital t^ 
fourteen days quarantine. An English mail steamer direct 
from Alexandria coming in at the same time was allowed to 
enter without quarantine. The Commodore objected, and 
threatened to go to sea tomorrow if this discrimination was 
persisted in. They offered to allow bo&td to come alongside 
to trade, but he refused to have any communication with the 
people of Malta under such circumstances. 

Saturday, Od. 27. We went to sea at 1 P. M. The 
pe(q>le of Malta k)se the profits on from $2000 to $3000 of 



918 KT morma lotb. 

trade on acooant of general liberty that was to be given* 
I went to the doctor thia morning for a aore throat that had 
troubled me ever aince my trip to Jemaalem. He fonnd an 
oleer on one of the tonaila. I had to give np work entirriy. 

Sunday^ (Xf . 38^ 1969. I waa very feveriah thia morning. 
During inapection after qnarters, while standing in line with 
tlie other aiek waiting for the Commodore to come down to 
inapect the aick bay, I began to feel very faint and wonid 
have fallen had not Dr. Hyde eauglit me and held me np. 
The Commodore was Just coming down the ladder, but Dr. 
Gunnell met him and preased him buk with the remark tliat 
there was no sertons illness on board, only Stoart was having 
a l)iliou8 turn, to which he is subject. The ConiPMidore took 
the hint and backed out. They evidently conld not acooant 
for my utter collapse and did not want the Commodore to be 
obliged to report any auspicious illness at the next port, t 
had my hammock at once and Dr. Onnnell came to fSeel my 
pulse several times during the day as I lay dosing. The 
Surgeon'a Steward came to me and coafeased that he had 
made a great mialake in giving me podofAyllin with other 
ingredients in powder instead of in mors than one dose in the 
form of pills. Though rather heroic his dosing was eAsctlve 
in removing my feveriah symptoms. He begged me not to 
report him. 1 set his mind at rest on that aoore, forhe had 
hardly been himadf aInce his spree at Alexandria.. 

Monday^ Oct. S9. We arrived at Tunis after breakfast. 
Dr. Gunnell was down to see me early this morning and he 
appeared greatly pleaaed to find that I had laahed up my own 
hammock and had it atowed in the nettings. It enabled him 
to report a dean Mil to the Health Oflicer, and no quaimntine 
waa required of ^a. 

JHoMlay, Aov. 5. I came off the sick list to-day, though 
still weak. We left Tnnia for Gibrattar Thanday, and are 



OIBRALTAB* 219 

ninlung in Bighi of the Spanish eotmU Oor tea was apoiled 
al sapper tbcongli some deiaagement in the condenser tl^lt 
caosed it to gi^e onl brackish waler. Tliere was scnne sput* 
tering, oottsidafable laughter^ and very little tea drank* I 
ashed the bog^ what they Iboiqiitt we iUi before the Mexican 
war when we had no tea and sagariMriion in the naxy. They 
gave it op. I toU then we ^Hooehed the pen" for tea and 
sngar ereiy three months, and it eame out of oor wages. 
They waited to know Iww we cmm to have it now. I told 
them it was given us in piaee of part of oor old grog ration. 
After snppar the seottMntt was soon emptied. It was flUed 
ilgain with tlie braddsh water Just f vum iha condenser. It 
made thie men even more thirsty. They thsnght i most have 
some cold coffee in my mess ehest ss I ^d am hnont the 
scQttlebQtt. I reminded them that i wss on the siek lirt at 
breakfast and no coffee had been saved, then showed them 
tlie silver franc that I liad been sockiog to overcome thirst, 
a plainsman's trick on a long, waterless drive. Al Ural they 
accepted the braekishnsss as a Joke end spat it oot with 
a grimmace, — ^then a growl, — and finished by blasting It in 
most approved mmi^^war'soman's style until the condenser 
gave oot pore water. Thtume^fm-k! 

TWiday^ Xmt^ tf , 18§€. Approaching ^^The Bock" this 
fonnoon we got a view <^ its eastern face and eoold also see 
the western faeeol Centa, on the Afrlean coast, fifteen ndh^s 
distant. We eoold not see the strata at Centa fltetitictly, 
bat it is said to coincide so closely with the eastern diff of 
The Bode as to kad to the belief that they were separated 
by some great convnlsion of nature, giving rise to the nsme 
'« Pillars of Hercules." At the foot of the diff of The Bock 
is the little Spanish fiahing village of Catalan, lying along an 
extremely narrow beach, with buildings crowding each other 
dose up to the overhsnging eliff sad down to a line of beach 



220 MT Boymo life. 

8urf-w»4shed daring easterly stomig. Fishing boats were 
drawn up on the sandy beaeh oiose to the hooses. As one 
of oar Hibernian shipmates pnt it, ^^ The whole prodnets of 
the land must eome from the sea." As we rounded the south 
point of The Roek, where it was possible to effect a landing 
under the most favorable cireumstanoes we saw fortiileationB 
close to the bluff shore line. At the extreme south point a 
lighthouse stood upon a slightly overhanging low bluff, with 
barraclc buildings and a smooth sloping parade grennd near, 
the smoothest and about the nearest level spot on The Boek. 
This is Eiiropa Point. The shore here tr^ds to the north, 
and we skirted the entrance points of the little Rosia Bay, 
its steep shores lined with fortified wite. We got right of 
more powerful works as we neared the entrance to the Bay of 
Gibraltar, where the shores are less sleep. We anehored at 
noon in the bay and went into quarantine. 

Wtsdne^kiifj Nov. 7, IS^. We steamed akHigside a coal 
hulk and wok on 230 tons of coal. An Italian sIcmm^ was 
taking coal from the other side. She was loaded with emi- 
grants bound to The Platte. 

Ftiday^ Nov. 9, We went out of quarai^ne at 6 A. M. 
and trimmed ship in honor of the Prince of Wales' birthday. 

Saturday J Nov. 10. We sailed for Lisbon at 4 P. M. 

Mo¥kday^ Nov. 12. We moored at Lisbon without any 
quarantine being required. I got six letters from home, the 
latest being seven months old. Their numbers show that 
three are missing. 

Sutiday^ Nov. 25. The Colorado came in this aftwraoon. 
Hhe brought me a letter dated Nov 17, 1865, one year and 
eigdt days old, forwarded from the receiving ship PHfMtton. 

Tuesday^ Nov. 27. I have been troubled with frequent 
bilious spells since my visit to Jerusalem. While furling 
topsails to-day I became suddenly dicsy and lost my hold, 



TRANSFEBRED TO THE IMO, OOMEWARD BOUKD. 221 

60 complete] J that I would have fallen bad DOt young Parker 
given my elbow a cant over tbe yard tbat enabled me to get 
a grip. Capt.-o'-tbe*top Woods reported it to Mr. AUyn, 
and I am not to go aloft again while in the ship. 

Friday i Nov. 30^ 1866. I was transferred to the Store- 
abip Jnoy homeward bound* The Surgeons had reported 
my eopdition to the Commodore and he to the Admiral. Mr. 
AUyn had opposed my being sent home until Woods' report 
of my diaainess while alofU He had said that I was ^^as 
useful to him as any seaman in the ship, for be could put me 
anywhere." He now agreed with them in helping me o£f and 
at tbe same time took care to secure a seaman in my place, 
lid transferring me he said it was by tbe Admiral's order. I 
signed aoooants with my second installment of bounty and 
$69.68 of wages due me. 

Tuesday i Dec, 4. The ship was cleared of cargo yester- 
day, and we have been stowing heavy shot from the Stonewall 
for ballast, to-day. My old messmates, Norwood and Web- 
ster came aboard this afternoon, being transferred on account 
of having but a short time to serve. All of the invalids of 
t)ie fleet were also sent on board. 

WediM9day^ Dec. 5* The Mtantonomahi AugtLsla^ and 
Frolic went to sea at 4 P. M. 

Thursday^ Dec. 6. The Colorado and Ticonderoga went 
to sea at 7 A. M« 

Saturday^ Dec. 8. We took in coal for cabin and ward- 
room fires on the coast. In the afternoon I was sent io a 
boat down the river to Belem for sand for scrubbing decks. 
We landed at tbe ruins of the old fortifications destroyetl by 
the great earthquake of 1755. We could trace the line of 
the walls for a long distance along the river's bank. These 
Catholic countries seem to desert localities where the ^^Visi- 
tation of God*' has been of destructive effect. Here as was 



222 MT BOVIKO LIPS. 

seen by me when a boy in the navy at Callao, Pera, the walla 
remaia uearly baried in sand jast as left by the shock. At 
Callao thei» vvere some rooms only partially baried that we 
could enter. (Vol. I, pp. 19-20.) We had no time to ex- 
amine these rains, bat th^'.general appearance of this bank 
to the sandy point of old CaUao was as of two peas front i;he 
same pod. While on liberty in the city of Lisbon I saw a 
rained church whose roof was gone and grass was growing 
upon the top of its walls. A sentry was at one corner of its 
walls close to the street, where a portion at the groand had 
.1;>een thrown out, leaving a crisK^ked and overhanging wall of 
:,ooO:^rete eight feet thick. ; A sentry has stood there for over 
a^vceyi^ary through ra|n and shine by day and by night in- 
stead of demolishing or repairing the building. Oft our way 
down stream we had kept to the iniddte of the current, bat 
were glad to hag the shore upon our return with our loaded 
boat in^prder to avoid that same swift current as much as we 
pos^iJ^ly- could. We passed close to the beautiful church 
at Belem, one of the few buildings not demolished at that 
^^tremUor gramla^** a\90 the tine tower of Belem Castle,'from 
whose highly ornamental walls a shot was thrown just over 
the head of the NlagarQ,*» seanian in the waist-boat of that 
ship who was heaving the l^ad when chasing the Rebel rani 
StonewaU out of Lisbon. 

Tuesday^ Dec. 11. The Queen of Spain arrived at sanset 
la a Portugese man-o'-war and received a general salute. 
The show was fine, and those who saw both were reminded 
of the reception of Victor Emanuel's daughter when she came 
to marry the King of Portugal. - The flashes of the guns in 
salute showed with fine effect against the dark background 
of mist to seaward and lighted up the King's Palace, abreast 
of which they lay. 

Wednesday J Dec, 12. We got under weigh at 11 A. M. 



WE SET SAH;. FOB BOSTON. 228 

with a fair wind and favorable tide to Bail down the Tagus, 
boniid for Boston. The breeze died away as we reached the 
mouth of the river and the tide turning we drifted back two 
miles and had to anchor. 

Thursday^ Dec. 13^ 1666. At noon we were safely out- 
side the bar at the mouth of the Tagus. One of our officers 
from the Ticond^oga invalided home is Mr. Moore, of the 
Engineers, a son of my old captain on the Apprentice. He 
reported to our Executive, Mr. Mallard, that I had been sent 
home on account of liability to dizziness during frequent 
bilious attacks that had troubled me lately, and that I had 
nearly fallen from aloft a few days ago. I was told not to 
go aloft hereafter, and they would find work for me on deck.r 

Tuesday^ Dec. 18. I was sent to cook for the petty offi* 
oers mess yesterday. To-day they filled themselves with i 
big baked apple pie that I made for their supper, and voted 
it ^* bully." The apples^ though fresh and good, had accu<^ 
mnlated in the mess chest waitiiDg for some one to come that 
could make use of them. 

Wednesday^ Dec. 19. Yesterday's fresh breeze that was 
setting us along Aoely OB our course has increcsed so thdt 
>re were under topsails all last night. All hands were called 
at 5 A. M. to reef topsails. We found tblat a maintopsail 
sheet had parted, and the watch were vainly trying to secure 
the flapping sail. The Carpenter's Mate had a shoulder put 
out of joint by the thrashing of the sail before it was brought 
under control. 

Thursday^ Dec. 20. The Captain's Cook blew up his 
coffee pot this morning and got badly scalded. An English 
steamer ran down under our stem Just at noon to ask our 
latitude and longitude. We gave them Lat. 82 ^ 20' N., 
Long. SO ^ 22^ W. She was from Pernambuco, bound for 
Lisbon, and asked for our name. We gave Ino for answer. 



^ 



224 HT Bovmo life. 

After a moment's hesitation her captain sboated ^^ I suppose 
jou do, but / would like to know, that I may report speaking 
with you." Capt. Garfield responded, ^^We spell the name 
I-N-O^ — /wo," ^^ Oh!'* came back as an echo, and they 
forged ahead and turned upon their course. At 8 P. M. we 
passed a brig from Oporto for Bio. 

Tiiesday^ Dec, 25j 1866, Gideon's band is not quite so 
noisioal under the topgallant forecastle, for its numbers were 
sadly depleted by slaughter yesterday. By the generosity 
of Captain Garfield and our wardroom oflScers we dined on 
sea pie made in the coppers with geese and ducks that have 
had the run of that deck. Their leader is still alive and all 
last night strove to make up by alertness and the force of his 
clarion notes for all losses sustained. 

Thursday^ Dec 27, This noon we were in Lat. 31 ® 08^ 
N., Long. 34^13' W., with the ship rolling along at the 
rate of eight knots, everything lashed securely and we all 
elated at the prospect of reaching the Bermudas within two 
weeks. 

Suivday^ Dec. 30, We are over half way to Bermuda, 
being in Lat. ^l^W N., Long. 43 ® 2V W. We have on 
board 27 days rations of water. 

Tuesday^ Jan, I, 1867, The course was changed last 
night to direct for Boston. This morning I caught a piece 
of seaweed on the logline while hauling it in, showing that 
we are getting into the influence of the Gulf Stream. The 
bit of weed waf) sent into the cabin, and about every person 
in the ship came on deck to look at the sea from whence the 
welcome visitor came. We will probably be Just as glad to 
be well out of this stream. We shifted topsails yesterday, 
bending our new winter sails ready for the rough weather 
we must expect soon. We are 1400 miles from Boston. 

Fi iday^ Jan, 4, A northwest gale commenced yesterday. 






LYING TO. ALMOST A COLLISION. 225 

this noon we had reached Lat. 34 © 20' N., Long. 50 ® 59' 
W., 1000 miles from Boston, bat we are unable to lay our 
course and we may have a tedious passage ye)|^ unless the 
wind changes. 

Saturdati^ Jan. 5, 1867. At midnight last night we were 
reeling off eight knots with a fair wind, making all hands 
feel Jolly over our prospects. Our watch was about to be 
relieved when a heavy squall came on, setting all hands to 
furling and reefing for two hours before we could go below. 
When we came on watch again at four o'clock it was blowing 
with great force and had just taken our new foretopmast- 
staysail clear out of the bolt-ropes, and a fierce squall with 
thunder and lightning was raging. It was pitch dark except 
when the flashes revealed the flying scud. The hatches were 
battened down and all hands remained on deck. A short 
exposure to the pelting rain sent the water in streams down 
our necks, even filling our boots. The storm raged with great 
fury until noon, when it subsided rapidly. It left us with 
the ship rolling heavily and going only 3 1-2 knots toward 
the west at 7 P. M. Among the Stonewall's sails we found 
fl staysail that replaced our lost one. 

Sunday^ Jan. 6. We have fair weather again, with a 
leading breeze. Our longitude this noon was 53 ^ 20^ and 
at 8 P. M. we were only 900 miles from Boston, plowing 
merrily along at the rate of 12 1-2 knots. 

Wednesday^ Jan. 9. A heavy squall came up soon after 
8 P. M., Sunday, and we were soon under close reefed fore 
and main topsails, steering north. To-day we were forced 
to furl the foretopsail and lie to. At 1 P. M. a bai*que was 
discovered through the scud close aboard and bearing down 
upon us under bare poles. We had to keep away to prevent 
a collision. She soon after came round and lay to, heading 
with us. At noon the barometer stood at 28.98,,but at 7 P. 




226 mr roviko life. 

M. it had stood for an hoar at 29.82. At noon the bojs were 
glad to crawl up to the open mess chest and get a slice of 
half-boiled pork and some hardbread. The ship has tumbled 
about so that the galley cooks have been unable to oook the 
officers' dinner. At breakfast we had rather exciting times. 
The ship was decidedly lively in her motions. I did not try 
to spread any mess cloth, but wedged the cofifee and skouse 
kettles into the chest and each man made his way up to tne 
where I had lashed myself to be able to use both hands, and 
I filled for him a pot of coffee and a pan of skouse. An 1 

unusually lively jump of the ship would take a man off his i 

feet and he would land on top of the mess to leeward, or a 
vicious roll would send everybody and everything not lashed 
or braced sliding to leeward in a heap together, laughing or 
cursing according to their experiences or dispositions. We 
were only four day's sail to Boston three days ago, but we 
have lost 100 miles since then. 

Fridxiy^ Jan. 11. Yesterday we were able to set a little 
sail and were recovering some of the loss, when the gale set 
in with its old vigor and we were reduced to close reefed 
foi'e and main topsails. To-day we are again plunging our 
bows into the seas with all the sail the ship can bear, 800 
miles from our port at noon and going our course. 

Saturday^ Jan. 12. We have been under close reefed 
topsails since January 4th except for a few hours. To-day 
the wind shifted more to the northward and brought with it 
frequent squalls of rain and hail. At noon we were in Lat. 
37^23/ N. Long. 57® W., 620 miles from our port, but 
with little prospect of reaching it for some time yet. 

Monday^ Jan. 14, One of the Captain's servants died 
last night and was buried to-day. He was a mulatto named 
James Culbertson, from Philadelphia. 

Tue$day^ Jan. 15. The reefs were shaken out of the 



8HOBT OF WATER. AWS-8TRUCK BY THE CLOUDS. 227 

topsails and topgullantsails set. All battens were removed 
from the hatches for the first time in ten days. We were 
put npon short allowance of water to*day. It was calm in 
the afternoon, bat a stiff breeze sprung up in the evening 
that sent us along on our course finely. 

Wednesday, Jan. 16, 1867. At 10 o'clock last night all 
hands were called to shorten sail to dose-reefed fore and 
main topsails again, the ship heading her coarse till midnight, 
when we had to lie-to under a dose-reefed maintopsail, the 
barometer falling to 28.92. To-day is a little less stormy, 
we setting the foretopsail dose-reefed at 8 P. M. 

Thursday J Jan. 17. To-day ure have a fair wind that is 
not too strong for carrying sail, so we are doing something 
toward getting home. The main topgallant yard has to be 
fished before we can set that sail. At noon we were in 
Lat. 87© 08' N. Long. 69 ® 06^ W., having gained twenty 
mUes in the past five days. 

Friday, Jan. IS. A gale set in last night that has set us 
back into the Golf Stream. 

Saturday, Jan. 19. We have been going north all day. 
The breeie calmed down in the afternoon so that the sailii 
flapped against the masts as we went to supper at 4 o'clock. 
A little before 5 o'clock the barometer began to drop rapidly. 
All hands were called to shorten sail in tones that meant an 
urgency. We rushed on deck and found the ship was being 
encircled by a dense bank of black clouds, rising to nearly 
overhead, their edges in rapid motion. We wei^ in the 
center of a drele of calm with only the low waves from the 
commotion about us reaching the ship. (See frontispiece.) 
The yards were braced to receive the wind from any quarter, 
and the men lay aloft promptiy to furl and reef. Very few 
orders were given by the oflScers and those were in low tones* 
The hatches were dosed and battened down. Life-lines 




8M MT BOTiHo uwm. 

were stretched along the deck and every preoaation taken to 
meet — we knew not what. The clouds did not meet over- 
head. There was something weird in the hashed calm abont 
oar ship with the ripple of the waves against the side plainly 
heard as if at anchor, and oar masts pointing into the bit of 
dearsky, while great commotion was evidently all aboat us. 
(The half-tone frontisfnece is from a photograph of my 
crayon copy of a pencil sketch 1 had taken that evening^ The 
photograph was fading.) The squall passed around us and 
at six o'cdock gave us a breeze that enabled us to lay one 
course. It has been very cold all day with occasional hail. 
Ourposition at noon was Lat. 40 ® 30'N. Long. 61 ^ 05"* W., 
420 miles from Cape Cod, or 470 from Boston. 

Sunday^ Jan, 20^ 1867. A stiff breeze is pushing us 
along to the westward and southward. We had a slight fall 
of snow during the morning watch, and had hail, rain, and 
reefing of topsails during the day. . 

Monday^ Jan. 21. A warm southeast wind sprang up 
this morning. At 9 A. M. we were 240 miles from Greoige's 
Banks, and going on our course at 12 knots. A heavy rain 
squall set us to furling and reefing, but it did no worse than 
to wet us through. We caught two days* rations of fresh 
water in the awnings, putting us upon full rations again* 

Tuesday J Jan. 22. Our breeze of yesterday left us in the 
mid watch with a heavy squall of wind and rain. We had 
to shorten sail for it. At noon we were in Lat. 40^ SS"* K. 
Long. 64®49'W. 

Wednesday^ Jan, 23. We reached soundings at 65 fath- 
oms on Geoi'ge's Banks at 4 A. M., 90 miles from Cape 
Cod. This evening we passed a large vessel with main and 
mizzen masts gone, and the men were still at work clearing 
the wreck. Some miles astern we had passed some floating 
wreckage and had previously passed an abandoned ship, the 



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THE NEV/ YOn^ 

PUBLIC LIBRARY 



ASTOR, LENOX 
TIl^DBN FOUNDATIONS 



WBECK8. BOSTON. HOME AT LAST. 229 

foremast alone standiDg, its yard swaying and a few shreds 
of canvas and bolt-rope whipping in the wind. It was very 
heavy weather all night, bat the gale coming from the east 
we made good progress. We got up chain and shackled t6 
the anchors. 

Saturday^ Jan. 26^ 1867. We made Cape Cod Light at 
nine o'clock last night. At daylight to-day we took a pilot 
and beat in to the entrance of Boston harbor. Two tugs 
made fast to us at 2. P. M., and we ate supper at anchor 
off Charlestown Navy Yard. The pilot told us that over 
140 vessels bad been lost or dismasted in the gales of the 
past fortnight and that the Ino was the 6rst sailing vessel 
to arrive at Boston since Christmas. 

Tue^iy^ Apr. 2* We were all transferred to the Ohio^ 
when the Ino went out of commission, and in order to avoid 
being drafted to go to the World's Fair in the FranJdin I 
was advised by Lieut. Sumner to apply for my discharge on 
account of my deafness. An examinatin was ordered, and 
to-day the order for my discharge came. Being dischai*ged 
upon my own application 1 have to forfeit my final bounty 
of $100. I received the $100 second installment of bounty 
due fourteen months ago and $62.02 of pay due, of which 
71 cents was prize money for two captured blockade runners 
during January, 1865. At supper time I was at home in 
Dracut, Mass., with my wife and children. An account of 
other parts of my life is given in my book on The Duncan 
Stuabt Family in America. I am now a Free Man, and 
having roamed to satiety, am fully determined to make this 

THE END OF 

MT ROVING LIFE. 



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